So... I love my Fj40 but why I trying so hard (1 Viewer)

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Yup... I try to head out there occasionally but they aren’t always around
 
Saw your Hilux steering wheel in “what have you done”. Nice find:cheers:
Does the early-73? horn button fit on the hilux? If not you could search for a “fj40 steering center pad” or “fj40 steering center cover”, because the hikux doesn’t have a center horn button.

Apparently Birdhead has figured out a way to remove some of the early-73? hirn button cracks. The other option is a 3D printed replica. AntFJ made some, but I think he’s no longer making them.

The center pad with the red T you posted is around a 74-75. They are held on with 3 really long screws that angle in towards the pad. 76-later is essentially the same but with a blue plastic center emblem.

If you ever want to move your shift cane back, you can put the aluminum FJ60 top plate/shift tower on an H42 trasmissiin. I forget the FJ60 year needed. Valley Hybrids knows, he sent me one. Simple fix.
 
hey bigredrocker:

Preciate the input as aways! kewl

the image with the red-t center cap? totally not my vehicle. Damn it looks nice..its an image off google.

i always liked the who rat fink style shifter i even have a small motion activated skull to go on it..Seriously....LOL seriously though its an idea...to get it moved back t a nice position

My center cap is the one with the cracks and and the gray background

awesome find indeed on the steering wheel. i just couldn't afford the other two that were there cause i had no clue what they may be worth or who'd need em...hindsight right> then again not many people with a 40 or 60 would probably want an hills wheel

yes i have the original hilux center cap. and a few others from newer Toyotas that did work..i ended up getting a normal cap for the 40 albeit its got the cracks under the plastic you can't feel em on top
 
to theBigRedRocker

this is what i ended up getting...fits perfect, but the inner plastic has spiderweb cracks all though it. I ran my finger nail over the outter part and i don't feel anything coming through yet

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IIRC, AntFJ used to make new clear inserts

does your horn work now ?
 
ok so heres what I've done in the past few days.
I followed all the wires I need to actually run the fj40

BIG reg from MSD 6AL
little red from MSD...emergancy switch to cut power to distributor. it works and no fuel build up has happened in the past
black from MSD

big red wire from Electrical fan that is going to a thermo switch and spliced with a rocker switch to turn off or on when I desire.
I could wire it in the a ignition on only but haven't
black wire fan grounder

I forgot to mention I have 3-30 amp breakers. I have 2-150 amp wafers (1 of them is taken the place of the ammeter...I don't want a rolling toaster) and lots of relay...even my switch box (marine switch box from Bass Pro Shop, has mini breakers built into the switches.. (looks like small diodes or something)

I didn't relize my Blue Sea fuse block was only rated to 100 amp for the whole block for fuses..which meant i can only use three 30 amp fuses...NOT.i have ten spots and can't use them, so i bought breakers instead... I'll use the fuse block for the smaller fuse rates

red for holly pump
black ground

I also have some tiny wire that is going to power all the time.

moving the coil to the firewall by blower motor and the mid inside to inner firewall and freeing up that inner fender
my alt is straight to the battery
my starter is installed its a 4.3hp mini starter

electrical laid out for the distributor-done
electrical laid out for the fuel pump-done
electrical laid out for the fan

I just have to build the switch box..with the relays and such. PITA

not hooking up the dual batteries with iso yet. I don't have a way to really secure them yet in the tray inside the vehicle so for now if i try to work on the fj40 I need to remove the battery and take it with me

so i am back on track to just get it running first before anything. thanks again
 
I got the impression birdhead has the ability to make those cracks vanish. The only method I can think of, is using a precisely controlled heat. Not sure if boiling water would be hot enough or too hot. You’d have to support the plastic so it’d keep its shape. Maybe set it in a smooth bottomed pasta strainer:meh:

If you try to remove the plastic emblem from metal, be careful. The 3 tabs on the ring that hold the plastic are easy to break off. Not sure, but I think heating them a bit will help avoid the tabs from splitting.
 
Hey I heard that those are good trays I have a stock image of the one I got ... Iya a bluetorch fabrication unit for two optimas.

I don’t have my interior tank anymore and I’m considering putting it back and keeping the 22 gallon rear tank but in then I will lose the area under the front seat for the battery box

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