So close!!! FJ40 77' Distributor conversion - 60 model dizzy wiring help needed. (1 Viewer)

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Feb 22, 2020
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Wichita Kansas
Guys - I'm almost there but need some help. I have a stock 77' I'm putting the 60 electronic distributor/ignition in. Everything is installed but I have a few extra wires/conections I need help dispositioning (pics are great if you have done this, otherwise explanation is fine).

Help needed items are as follows:

1.) 2 vent holes in top of new 60 dizzy cap. What have you done with these?

2.) 1 red wire that previously went into the original 77' distributor. What have you done with this?

3.) 3 wires from 77' harness (yellow/black, red, white/black). What did you do with these?

4.) 2 wires from 60 coil/ignitor (red with connector, white with connector). What did you do with these?

5.) Two vacuum connections for advance mechanism. What have you done with these two ports?

Ref pics below and thanks in advance (no pun intended)!

Ben

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I’ll see if I can get the ball rolling for you...

1) IIRC, the vents at the top of the cap are for vacuum cooling, an inlet and an outlet, probably coming from a filtered source on your air cleaner, and going to manifold vacuum. Both could probably be capped. I could be wrong.

2) Any wires going directly to the original diz from the original harness is probably for points (12v+) and not needed. I could be wrong.

3) Get a Haynes manual and trace down the purpose of those wires.

4) Two wires from coil/ignitor are probably the required lead and ground. Check a manual to confirm.

5) The two vacuum ports on the side are for vacuum advance and vacuum retard. The correct types of vacuum for each have been debated forever. What I was taught for vacuum advance is that you DO NOT use manifold vacuum, you use ported vacuum. The mechanical advance should take care of advance needed during acceleration. Vacuum advance should only be functional during incremental responses during highway type driving. For the retard side, I am not entirely sure. It’s possible that it could be manifold since manifold vacuum is highest during deceleration.
 
My two cents, both ports on the vacuum unit are advance. You have it hooked up right, that outer port is for altitude compensation (6degrees) won’t need that where you’re at.
 
I’ll see if I can get the ball rolling for you...

1) IIRC, the vents at the top of the cap are for vacuum cooling, an inlet and an outlet, probably coming from a filtered source on your air cleaner, and going to manifold vacuum. Both could probably be capped. I could be wrong.

Do not cap the vents. Doing so can allow vapors to collect under the cap potentially leading to a small explosion or corrosion of the electronic parts of the distributor.

Run a vacuum line to a spot on the air cleaner to draw air out of the cap. Run a second hose capped with a small cheap fuel filter to pull filtered air into the the cap. Pick a spot and zip tied the fuel filter along the firewall and you're done.
 
Here is where i think i landed so far.

1.) 2 vent holes in top of new 60 dizzy cap. What have you done with these?

Feeback is these are to vent the dizzy. One connects to vacuum source and the other a filtered air supply (ideally from inside cabin).

2.) 1 red wire that previously went into the original 77' distributor. What have you done with this?

Feedback is this wire runs from the original dizzy to the original ignitor inside the factory wire bundle and is not needed.

3.) 3 wires from 77' harness (yellow/black, red, white/black). What did you do with these?

Feedback is all the wires can be capped and stowed except the yellow/black wire as its the 12v ignition wire. This needs to be used for the new ignitor (ref item #4).

4.) 2 wires from 60 coil/ignitor (red with connector, white with connector). What did you do with these?

Feedback is that the connector (female) with the white wire is for tachometer output. The male connector (red wire) is for 12v ignition power. Hook up the yellow/black OEM wire to this.

5.) Two vacuum connections for advance mechanism. What have you done with these two ports?

Feedback is both parts are vacuum advance. Outboard is high altitude and that can be capped in my instance. Inboard port needs a vacuum source.

If I've screwed anything up, let me know!!!
 
Here’s what I did with my big cap:

1. Larger port is routed to the base of my carb, this is your vac advance source. Smaller is capped. .

2. Red Wire - abandon

3. Existing yellow / black is your power source that needs to connect to the igniter

4. I abandoned the yellow wire connector from igniter and connected the other (can’t see the color) to yellow/black

5. Large vent opening I ran to a high spot on the firewall and attached a small generic filter to it, this vents the cap to open air to control moisture buildup inside the dizzy. You can run into the cab if you want, I don’t ever plan on being engine deep in water and didn’t. Smaller was routed to my air cleaner.

pics attached, hope they help

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Well, I think either the magnetic pick up or the ignitor from my 60 parts must be bad. I can't get any spark out of the coil despite it getting power (and replaced with a new one). Going to revert back to the stock unit and tune the carb while I order the replacement parts. Thanks for all the help!
 

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