Snapped off Upper Shock Mount Bolt (1 Viewer)

[Two Buck]

I was just wrapping up putting an OME lift on my FJ60 last night, and I snapped the head off the very last bolt I was torquing down: passenger side rear shock upper mount.

I think I almost did the same thing on the driver side too -- it started feeling a little strange and I quit before I hit torque spec (67 lbs, if I remember correctly) -- so now I'm thinking I should probably replace that bolt too, but I'm afraid I might snap it off taking it out if it was weakened when I tightened it.

I've already done some searching for how to fix it, I'm just posting here to A) complain, B) troll for sympathy, and C) ask for suggestions -- maybe someone will offer something new.

 

[SteveH]

Happens to all of us! Complaint accepted and sympathy extended.

If the bolt was moving (not seized) when it snapped, it should come right out with an EZ-out. You can also weld another bolt to the bolt stub, spray with WD-40, and then try to back out this welded pair (if you have a welder). Obviously, slide the shock off the stud before attempting any of this.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Or weld a nut on the bolt stub. If the bolt is M10, hold a 3/8UNC nut up to the end of it and weld on the broken bolt, filling up the center of the nut. The smaller ID of the 3/8 nut will help prevent welding outside the bolt.

 

[Seth S]

You could also cut the old shock stud off flush with the frame and then drill a hole in the frame. Find a shoulder bolt of the correct size and pass it through the frame and either weld it to the frame or just bolt it to the shock. Another option is to find a pre-made shock bracket online and then weld it to the frame.

 

[Two Buck]

Or weld a nut on the bolt stub. If the bolt is M10, hold a 3/8UNC nut up to the end of it and weld on the broken bolt, filling up the center of the nut. The smaller ID of the 3/8 nut will help prevent welding outside the bolt.

Unfortunately, the bolt snapped off inside the hole, so there's nothing sticking out to weld to.

At this point I think my options are an EZ-out first, then if that doesn't work maybe cut the existing mount off and weld a new one on over it. I'm half tempted to throw a ratchet strap on it and call it good for awhile until I get over being pissed off at it.

Meanwhile, I'm trying to get the rig ready to do the Mojave Road next weekend.

 

[IslandJ]

I believe you might have been 20lbs over.
Suggestion for FAQ - Common Torque Values

 

[Two Buck]

I believe you might have been 20lbs over.

Whatever it was came straight out of my Chilton manual. And it seemed pretty excessive when I read it, too.

 

[IslandJ]

Whatever it was came straight out of my Chilton manual. And it seemed pretty excessive when I read it, too.

Such a bummer. I had a hiccup when finishing up my lift instal the other week.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, It always seems to be he last bolt,screw,joint etc. Mike

 

[cps432]

Hi, It always seems to be he last bolt,screw,joint etc. Mike

I did all my brakes last summer and when bleeding the last caliper I stripped the zerk and couldn't get it out. I had to replace the whole caliper... again.

I've already done some searching for how to fix it, I'm just posting here to A) complain, B) troll for sympathy, and C) ask for suggestions -- maybe someone will offer something new.

I admire your honesty.

 

[OSS]

Cut off the stud, drill it out, drill it to 3/4", then do this:

 

[Two Buck]

UPDATE: I got it out. I hit it with the old left-handed-drill/easy-out/verbal lubricant (aka cursing a lot) triple threat and the bolt agreed to come out. I'm *really* glad I put anti-seize on it when putting it in. So I got the old bolt out and put in a spanky new one, then did the same with the driver side because I may have overtorqued that one too, and now I'm back in business. I'm officially checking "OME lift" off my wishlist.

And now, because everyone loves pictures: pictures!

 

[Willard]

Whatever it was came straight out of my Chilton manual. And it seemed pretty excessive when I read it, too.

Chilton manuals are ok. and for the most part they are correct but in this case per the FSM For Sale - 40, 50, 60, and 80 series FSM for a hell of a price. you were off by 20. It is suppose to be 47 ft lbs for the upper shock bolt.
Really I just tighten them until they are not totally squishing the rubber bushings.
Glad you were able to get it fixed and good looking rig.

 

[FJ60Seth]

Anti seize will change the torque spec.
https://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/torque_specifications.pdf

 

[cps432]

Anti seize will change the torque spec.
https://www.antiseize.com/PDFs/torque_specifications.pdf

Whoa! Never thought about that.