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Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by FLFJ40, Jul 23, 2005.
Has anybody used the smooth durabak? Does it look good?
It looks smooooo-oooth.
if your goin to paint your car with, i would recommmend not to. ive never seen the smooth on a car before, so dont you take have to take my recomendation. i am goin to use a paint on my car i i think its called non cadillist epoxy paint. it is super rust protectant and can take a serious beating.
Max, I would be wary of someone selling you a non-catalyst, epoxy paint. Epoxy by definition is a two part paint. Are you talking about Rust Bullet? I thought this thread may get more attention, if the smooth Durabak is as flexable as they claim, it seems like a great topcoat option.
Never seen the smooth used period. But my roommate ClemsonCruiser had the rough on his cruiser for about a yr and a half maybe 2 yrs. He just recently took it off and went to a normal paint. That stuff could certainly take a beating without coming off. I was going to use the smooth on my fj55 but they dont have both colors I want in the smooth so I will have to go with the rough. Make sure you get the UV resistant whatever you do. Otherwise it fades a good bit.
The joy of the rough DB is the ease of prep and spray. The texture covers it all up.
I don't know about smooth, but it would seem to me like it would absolutely HAVE to be sprayed [not rolled] on and it would be a little more tricky?
Maybe why nobody here knows.......
I have read a lot about it on their site you still roll it on and its still supposed to coat just as well. It just doesnt have the chunks of rubber in it they are much finer which allows it to be smoother.
Is Durabak kinda like linex and Rhino or ???
yes it is essentially the same thing and is just a lot less expensive do it yourself version...
How do you get Durabak off? I was assuming that since it is a rubbery compund that it would be hell to get off.
You can see the durabak in action in ClemsonCruisers avatar. He took part of it off with an industrial pressure washer. Not sure about the rest I think a paint scraper and a lot of time.
I would PM TJDIV and get his honest opinion since he did a wagon with it. If it were strictly an offroad truck I wouldn't hesitate, but I'm not sold on a DD.
it is hell to get off. If you go to the hardware store you can get a paint striper that works well for it. If you are talking about your hands... then you will be wearing it for the next two weeks.
P.S. I painted my truck with blue rough durabak and I love it. It is really tough.
I did my fj40 a few years ago in a two step process. I rolled the rough Durabak on then, while still wet, sprayed a full coat of smooth on top. I wanted the rough texture but also wanted it to have a decent look with some shine. It has held up well but... I would never do the white again. WAY too hard to keep clean!!! Any other color would be fine I think. Can't post pics but I could send you some if interested. One word of caution... use proper protective gear! The fumes from that stuff are right out of hell!
WARNING WARNING...THREAD THEFT VIOLATION
Clem, you have some pics of this top chopped 55? Enquiring minds want to see
There are basically 3 general categories for products like Durabak, any you certainly get what you pay for:
Single part coating (Durabak) - least expensive, least performace, durability, adhesion. DIY.
2 part coating (SEM, Morton, Gator Guard) - More expensive than single part coating, but much better performance, durability, and adhesion. DIY. Suggest application method is undercoating gun for uniform film build.
High Temp, High Pressure coatings (Line-X) - Much more expensive than either above, but superior characteristics. Can only be applied by a professional because of the equipment.
I used a 2 part coating on the floor and have been satisfied. Prep is of paramount importance (and I don't mean POR), check the datasheet for appropriate prep. Datasheet will also list compatible primers.
Enigma go to the fj55 forum or the Upstate Cruisers forum and It's pictured in both readers rigs sections.
Sparky I've watched JP drive 50 ft off camper with the side of his cruiser against and bank and that rough durabak looked exactly the same when done except for all the dirt it brought with it. That stuff is as tough as any type liner. I have seen rhino lining in a truck bed get scraped through faster.
I talked to the durabak guy here in Denver about ordering special colors ( I want to do my cruiser in a deep purple and the frame in yellow ). He said that they wouldn't speicaly mix the color for me but I could order the white and take it to Home Depot and aske them to add the color. He said that it had to be a certin type of pigment (which it was I cannot remember) but that most places carry it. He also said that I shouldn't let them mix it in the shaker and to get home and put it on immeditly because the oxygen in the air is what causes it to start to harden up. If you were to shake mix it, it would accelerate the hardeing and you may end up wasteing alot of durabak.
my cruiser is completely covered in gray Durabak.
I had all the body parts sand blasted, except the tub, then aired off the dust, and started rolling.
My whole cruiser is rolled on, everybody that see`s it, thinks I sprayed it on.
Here is also a link to Pirate4x4 I posted, asking which is the best way to remove durabak.