Smog Pump Replace

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Two Buck

Two Buck

SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Threads
44
Messages
280
Location
Nowhere, NM
My smog pump has started clicking and squealing, so I figured I'd better replace it before it seized up. I bought a used one and now I'm working on pulling the old one to install it. I've gotten things disconnected to the point where it couldn't run if I wanted it to ... so I figured now would be a good time to stop and get some advice.

Are there different version of the smog pump for different years? The used one I bought has two air outlets, but I can only locate one outlet on the one I'm pulling. I removed the hose from that one, but I can't find a port for the second hose. And there *is* a second hose down there, but it's lying there disconnected, I didn't unhook it, and I can't see (or feel) where it was connected. What the hell is that???

And to make things even more fun, I can't get an eye or a hand or a wrench on the last bolt holding the air pump in, so I can't finish pulling it. I'm not even sure if the head of the bolt faces the front or rear of the truck. :confused:

I'm taking a dinner break. :bang:
 
as shown in the diagrams below, the AI pump has two ports, one inlet and one outlet. The inlet sucks in air from the air cleaner, and the outlet pumps air into the Air Control Valve (ACV).

Last time I tried to purchase a remanufactured AI pump from Napa, they tired to give me a different pump that had the outlets modified to try and make it fit. I went to another parts place and got one that at least looked like the one I was replacing.
air injection parts.JPG
air schematic.JPG
 
there are two bolts that hold the pump on. The one associated with the tension adjuster, and the pivot bolt. The pivot is a long bolt. The schematic shows the bolt coming in from the front, but you never know. It will actually be a bolt head on one end and a nut on the other. Once the nut is removed, the bolt will have to be pulled out. When I remove my AI pump, I unmount the power steering pump and push it forward out of the way, without disconnecting the PS hoses or losing any fluid.
air pump mounting.JPG
 
2mbb said:
there are two bolts that hold the pump on. The one associated with the tension adjuster, and the pivot bolt. The pivot is a long bolt. The schematic shows the bolt coming in from the front, but you never know. It will actually be a bolt head on one end and a nut on the other. Once the nut is removed, the bolt will have to be pulled out. When I remove my AI pump, I unmount the power steering pump and push it forward out of the way, without disconnecting the PS hoses or losing any fluid.
Click to expand...

I finally got a wrench on the pivot bolt and I almost have it backed all the way out, but I can't get a wrench on the nut so the whole thing is spinning. How does anyone work on these things alone? Its like you need five hands an a periscope to do anything! :bang::bang: I'll probably end up moving the PS pump like you suggested.

It turns out the intake from the air cleaner wasn't connected, or if it was the port broke off at some point. The smog pump I'm taking out only has one port on the back, and a hole on the side where it looks like a port might have been. It looks nothing like the used smog pump I'm putting in, but the used one does look like the one in your schematic. Not sure how that's going to pan out, but it'll have to keep until tomorrow after work.
 
Don't throw away the old pump. They can be rebuilt. I am working on gathering all the bearings.

One way of making it a little easier to work on is remove the radiator overflow bottle.
 
Finally got it off. Then came the jigsaw puzzle of getting it out. :bang: But I managed to squeak it out without having to move the PS pump, so I'm counting it as a win.

Here's the one I just took out:
IMG7094-L.jpg

IMG7092-L.jpg


You see there's only one port on it. Weird. The red circle on the second picture shows what I guess was the 2nd port? I dunno. Like I said, weird.

Here's the used one I got that's going to be going in:
IMG7097-L.jpg


That looks more like a smog pump should.

My only concern at this point is whether the "new" one is good. The "old" one spins freely, but the new one takes some effort to turn. It feels smooth and there's no grinding noise or anything, but it takes some effort to turn it compared to the "old" one.
 
The old one doesn't look right. The new one looks like all my old ones. Before you install it take off the back half and clean it with OUT chemicals and add some grease to the bearings that arn't sealed.
 
Does anyone know which is the inlet and which is the outlet on the new smog pump? I can't find that in the diagrams.
 
Two Buck said:
Does anyone know which is the inlet and which is the outlet on the new smog pump? I can't find that in the diagrams.
Click to expand...

look in the diagram shown in post 2. the inlet comes from the air cleaner and the outlet goes to the air control valve. Follow the dotted lines on the diagram. The inlet is the short pipe and the outlet is the long pipe.
 
2mbb said:
look in the diagram shown in post 2. the inlet comes from the air cleaner and the outlet goes to the air control valve. Follow the dotted lines on the diagram. The inlet is the short pipe and the outlet is the long pipe.
Click to expand...

Got it. Duh, I was reading the schematics backwards. I didn't see the smog pump in there. :whoops:

Thanks!
 
It's always something... :bang:

So I finally managed to get the new smog pump in, and now I can't get the bolt for the tension adjuster in. (The one the top red arrow is pointing at.) The threads on the bolt look worn down and almost tapered, and I may have stripped out the beginning threads in the receiving hole of the smog pump when I was trying to force it in. I'm thinking maybe it was the wrong bolt to begin with and I have no idea how the PO got it in there.

So now I'm sort of stuck. I thought maybe I could try to chase the threads from the other side with a new bolt but Specter's out of stock, and I really don't want to have to pull the damned smog pump again and try to tap it. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions how to deal with this latest p.i.t.a.? Could I use a smaller gauge bolt with just the nut at the end for tension without threading through the smog pump? Would that be enough to maintain the tension against the belt?

attachment.php
 
Just go to the NAPA on kester/Oxnard and get a new bolt - I *think* it's a 8mm x 1.25 with 12mm head, but I forget - just take the old bolt with you. You prolly won't find a JIS bolt though, so the one you get will have a slightly larger (13mm) head. Also, TLC4x4 has hardware if you have to have a Toyo bolt. Or, clean up the threads, if possible, with a file. Or go to a Toyo dealer and get a bolt. Does not have to be the exact one.
 
Spike Strip said:
Just go to the NAPA on kester/Oxnard and get a new bolt - I *think* it's a 8mm x 1.25 with 12mm head, but I forget - just take the old bolt with you. You prolly won't find a JIS bolt though, so the one you get will have a slightly larger (13mm) head. Also, TLC4x4 has hardware if you have to have a Toyo bolt. Or, clean up the threads, if possible, with a file. Or go to a Toyo dealer and get a bolt. Does not have to be the exact one.
Click to expand...

You da man, Alf! That's exactly the info I needed. I was going to ask "what's the size and thread pitch" but I didn't think I'd get any responses, so thanks!

I'm afraid I may have torn up the threads in the smog pump itself so that even if I get a replacement bolt I won't be able to get it through. If so, I'm wondering if it would be okay to use a smaller gauge bolt that goes through the smog pump hole but doesn't engage the threads. A nut on the end will lock it against the tension adjuster, but will that be enough or does it need the added strength of the threads in the smog pump too to keep it from shifting?

I guess we'll find out. Stay tuned... :popcorn:
 
I'm guessing the threads in the pump body are a lot softer than the grade 10 bolt you're going to buy. I'd just put some grease on the end of the new bolt and use it to "fix" the threads in the SP ... Just thread it in carefully, alternately threading in a quarter turn, then backing out, threading in, etc.

I wouldn't use a smaller bolt, there. If anything, I'd drill it out for a larger. You could also buy a correct tap size and fix the threads that way.
 
Lessons learned

I finally finished swapping out the smog pump -- and it only took me five days! :bang: If (when) I ever have to do it again, I should be able to knock it out in a couple of hours.

Lessons learned:

  1. Know what's in your rig and make sure it's proper. The smog pump I pulled out was A) the wrong model, and B) mounted incorrectly. The intake host from the air filter wasn't connected; it was just lying there, and the port connector on the smog pump it should have been connected to was just ... gone.
  2. If you need three hands to get something done, asking for help makes it go much faster. I spent three nights trying and failing to get the pump aligned correctly in the bracket so I could feed the pivot bolt through. On night #4 I talked my wife into helping and after putting up with 20 minutes worth of "yuck, it's all greasy and dirty" and "I AM pushing it!" (when she totally wasn't) and one bout of tears, it popped right in. Having one person under the truck feeding the bolt in while the other positions the pump from above does the trick.
  3. The bolt that goes through the tensioning bracket and into the smog pump (B in the picture below) has to be aligned with the smog pump just right or it won't thread in properly, and the tensioning bracket pushes it slightly out of alignment. I thought mine was stripped out, but the problems was that it wasn't aligned properly. I had to loosen one of the mounting bolts for the tensioning bracket (A in the picture below) to allow enough play in the bracket to get the smog pump bolt in. Once I did that, the rest was gravy.

Anyway, the new smog pump is in, I KNOW it's connected properly, and it all sounds good so far. I'll tell ya, though -- I don't know how this thing passed smog the way it was set up before. Someone at the shop that helped me out must know a guy...

air-pump-mounting-L.jpg
 
Last edited:
It passed smog 'cuz Richard "fudges" the engine quite a bit to get them to pass. I took mine into him a few weeks ago because I was sick of throwing time into it, and he got it passed, but didn't fix what I asked him to fix (AI system), and he gave it back to me running like s***. When I gave it to him it was purring like a large kitten.

Lesson learned there.
 
cruiserfj45 said:
Don't throw away the old pump. They can be rebuilt. I am working on gathering all the bearings.

One way of making it a little easier to work on is remove the radiator overflow bottle.
Click to expand...
Hello, I'm a new owner of an 85 FJ60 and I'm facing this exact dilemma. Is there a rebuilding cheatsheet that you used? I also this it's the VSVs that need to be replaced. Thanks!
 
If you need a pump rebuilt send or take to BZ Rebuilders in Canoga Park

Rebuild Your Car Parts Today In Los Angeles | Honest, Affordable, Fast.

For almost 40 years our family has dealt with every car, from hot rods and American muscles to exotic European cars. Our passion for cars and mechanics helped us grow our business to where it stands today.
bzrebuilders.com bzrebuilders.com
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

eddiefj60
1981 60 Smog Pump
2
Replies
22
Views
2K
sark
sark
Yankee
C-Channel: To Replace or Not Replace
Replies
11
Views
382
MarkBC
MarkBC
chelo
Electric smog pump?
Replies
9
Views
660
chelo
chelo
Spike Strip
Smog Test Results Los Angeles
Replies
9
Views
751
Spike Strip
Spike Strip

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom