Small brake problem. (1 Viewer)

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This seems to be contagious.
 
This seems to be contagious.

Tell me about it! Either this threads have made me more sensitive to my brakes or something is going on with mine too. On my drive home tonight, the pedal all of a sudden became easier to push (I can almost get it to the floor now with the engine on). Reservoir still at max line, brakes still grab nicely, ABS works fine, and I can lock the tires up with CDL on/ABS off. Just more pedal travel. I'll keep an eye on it this week and dig into it more this weekend (I have new pads to put in the front).
 
I'm not sure what triggered my failure, but I think it had something to do with the temperatures here. Last week, two days before I noticed the problem, we had a hard freeze (as hard as it gets here in TX, mid 20's). We park the 80 in the garage so it wasn't in freezing temps over night, but it was in the cold all day. I doubt it froze the brake fluid as that takes extreme cold, but it might have shrunk whatever seals are in the master cylinder enough to start leaking and once they started, they destroyed themselves. Just my theory.

As far as letting my wife drive it, it's her choice. She knows the risk and understands what could happen. That said, she is only going to and from work which is less than two miles away and she will only reach max speeds of 25mph. The e-brake still works and she knows how to downshift. I told her if they completely go, point it towards a hybrid.
 
I don't remember what I paid for a used, maybe half of new? Iwould only use the aftermarket if I absolutely had to, in my experience most aftermarket parts tend to be undersized for the 80's.

I would slap an OEM one on if it didn't cost so much. Like I said, the Fenco brand is only a temporary fix until I rebuild the original. I'll then put it on the shelf and wait for the Fenco to go. My problem with sinking $200+ in an OEM is that I'm not even sure that's my problem yet.

Thanks for the help everyone. I'll report after I make the repair.
 
It's not hard to change out. Make sure you have a decent set of line wrenches, don't use box ends, you'll just round the lines (ask me how I know :rolleyes: )

Is this what you're referring to?

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Those are exactly what I have. The fit is on the sloppy side, they're a tad bit large, but they worked just fine for me.

I don't use 'em very often on lines, or I'd buy a nicer set. They have come in handy for bots or nuts that wanted to round with a box end (and I couldn't get a socket on).
 
Final report. I bought the cheapo master cylinder from Autozone for $59. I just happen to have $20 on my reward card, so it was only $44 after tax. I've been bogged down in law school finals, so I had a local shop change it out for me for $90. I just picked up the truck and it feels better than it ever has. I know people are going to flame me for putting junky parts in the truck, but the OEM one is $275. This one has a lifetime warranty. Plus I plan on rebuilding the old one. So all in all, I spent $135 to have my master cylinder replaced and I didn't have to touch it. Thanks to all those that posted.
 
Final report. I bought the cheapo master cylinder from Autozone for $59. I just happen to have $20 on my reward card, so it was only $44 after tax. I've been bogged down in law school finals, so I had a local shop change it out for me for $90. I just picked up the truck and it feels better than it ever has. I know people are going to flame me for putting junky parts in the truck, but the OEM one is $275. This one has a lifetime warranty. Plus I plan on rebuilding the old one. So all in all, I spent $135 to have my master cylinder replaced and I didn't have to touch it. Thanks to all those that posted.

If it works, it works--especially for that price! I say way to go but then I put Wal-Mart oil in mine. . .:D
 
If it works, it works--especially for that price! I say way to go but then I put Wal-Mart oil in mine. . .:D

Oil is oil to me too. I still using free oil I got on rebate 2yrs ago, when it runs out, the cheapes will win.
 
Final report. I bought the cheapo master cylinder from Autozone for $59. I just happen to have $20 on my reward card, so it was only $44 after tax. I've been bogged down in law school finals, so I had a local shop change it out for me for $90. I just picked up the truck and it feels better than it ever has. I know people are going to flame me for putting junky parts in the truck, but the OEM one is $275. This one has a lifetime warranty. Plus I plan on rebuilding the old one. So all in all, I spent $135 to have my master cylinder replaced and I didn't have to touch it. Thanks to all those that posted.

@jlg32281

I know this is extremely old news, but I am in the same boat and the rebuild kit from toyota is the same price as the fenco from autozone. Plus autozone will deliver it to me tomorrow. So the question is now 5 years later do you still have the truck and is the FENCO still getting the job done? Either way I think I'm convinced to at least go the same route you did as I've been fighting a crappy pedal for a year and am fed up. But wondering if I should even worry about rebuilding the original and keeping it around.
 
I still have the truck and it's been great. I've had no other brake issues since. I never got around to rebuilding the original. Since the repair, this was a daily driver vehicle. I wouldn't hesitate with the Fenco.
 
I still have the truck and it's been great. I've had no other brake issues since. I never got around to rebuilding the original. Since the repair, this was a daily driver vehicle. I wouldn't hesitate with the Fenco.

THANK YOU for the quick reply. I'll be having them deliver one in the morning! I just finished 2 weeks worth of overdue maintenance including front birf rebuild, all new brakes, deleted abs and LSPV and then fixed all the engine oil leaks it looks like you had when you posted the pic of the front axle brake fitting in this thread. Took her out for a test drive to find the brakes just as bad as they were before minus the warped rotor. (I was convinced the issue was air in the abs module)
 

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