Sluggish 2000 LX470 (2 Viewers)

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Dec 10, 2021
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1
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4
Location
North Carolina
Hello all, I have a 2000 LX470 with roughly 215xxx miles on it, and it's been awesome to own, though it has never impressed me with it's ability to get out of it's own way. I sold a 1994 Suburban 2500 with TBI that seemed to put down more power than this thing. I know the 100 series isn't known for it's ability to hustle, but it seems like mine is especially slow, and seems to be working against some resistance somewhere that I would love some help tracking down. A bit about the pig..
  • 285/70/17 Cooper At3 4S on 17x8.5"Turbomacs - so in essense my gearing is higher, though I noticed the sluggishness prior to tire upgrade.
  • Plugs, fuel filter replaced & MAF and throttle body cleaned 1 year ago - noticed slight improvement in throttle response.
  • Doesn't blow smoke, don't notice any mixing of coolant and oil to indicate HG issue.
  • 5W-30 M1 synthetic changed every 5000 miles
  • New 75W-90 gear oil in F/C/R differential 2 years ago.
I do have a bad wheel bearing in the front, and have gotten Timken replacements for both sides, and am curious if this could cause a great degree of rolling resistance. Common sense would say that a bad bearing would of course impede rolling resistance, but seems it might be a stretch - hoping someone can chime in and provide some experience. I've got some axle boots that need replacing as well, but with all this snow we had in NC, my gravel drive is a muddy mess at the moment, and I have to wait to crawl underneath.

My other thought is a clogged cat, though my check engine light isn't on. Question here is if you can have a clogged cat and not have the CEL come on. I had an older Subaru that had clogged cats, and the initial performance seemed similar as though I had to give more throttle for less performance. The engine seems to be fine, but something down the line seems to be slowing it up, and I'd be grateful to hear from those who might've had a similar experience before I just start throwing more money at it. Just spent $1700 on labor alone to have a new rack put in.. Last vehicle I buy with any form of surface rust..
 
I have an 01 lx470 along with a 95 silverado with the 350tbi. The silverado is considerably quicker and torquier. The 350 puts out a good bit more torque than the 4.7. If you think the 470 is slow you should drive one of the fj80's. I had 3 of those and the v8 is a considerable improvement. But yes, it will probably feel slow compared to the 2500. Of course, the bigger tires and rims aren't doing you any favors either.
 
My LX feels a good bit slower than either of my 99s but in a head to head test, it falls behind off the line, but then matches the acceleration of the other two up to highway speed. I have a theory about this, but have no idea whether it has any factual basis.

My 95 LS400 with the 1UZ had 260 HP and I always thought that it was unreasonably slow off of the line--I mean, with 260 hp, I should have been able to easily break the tires loose with the traction control off, but it took a LOT of work to do so.

I test drove a late 90s GS300--same overall feel

So, since my LX seems to have the same feel of being "smooth" off the line vs "snappy," I theorized that the tuning profile of the Lexus vehicles "might" be different to give smoother acceleration, and a more pleasurable driving experience to the original target population.

However, that is just conjecture....
 
I had a similar concern as the acceleration difference between my wife's GX470 and my LX is considerable. Hers has the VVTi and is way lighter, but it still seems out of proportion. I've sort of come to the same conclusion, that a lot of it is throttle response.

I've considered adding a Pedal Commander, but haven't pulled the trigger yet.
 
Put it in first gear and put the pedal to the floor, it'll get going. Is it spitting, sputtering, bogging down? These trucks are just sluggish especially at lower RPMs. If you can't reach higher RPMS and if / when it does reach those RPMS it still feels sluggish maybe you have a problem, but everything you described seems normal so far, especially since you've been keeping up with maintenance. Wait till something breaks don't go looking for problems.
 
Replace your coils if they are originals and your plugs while you're in there. Coils can loose their punch long before they fail and set of a CEL.
 
If you haven't engaged the ECT power switch on the center console, give it a shot. I much prefer the shift profile and it makes the truck feel less sluggish.
 
I appreciate the feedback and will keep poking around, and hopefully get a bit more gusto out of it. Eventual plans call for regearing, and am strongly considering adding the underdrive gear to the T/C as it adds one place to work on rather than regearing axles...Hoping to gain some torquepower that route.
 
Get a reader, go for a drive, and put the pedal down. Make sure the throttle is reading 90-100%. If its 60% then you might need a sensor or your APPS replaced. Or you can do a shotgun approach and replace MAF (mine failed without warning lights and was sluggish), and also new fuel pump.

I've done some highway towing and driving with a Burb 454 2500. That thing is a racetruck compared to the 100. Idles up to speed when you let your foot off the brake at the stoplight lol.
 
Hello all, I have a 2000 LX470 with roughly 215xxx miles on it, and it's been awesome to own, though it has never impressed me with it's ability to get out of it's own way. I sold a 1994 Suburban 2500 with TBI that seemed to put down more power than this thing. I know the 100 series isn't known for it's ability to hustle, but it seems like mine is especially slow, and seems to be working against some resistance somewhere that I would love some help tracking down. A bit about the pig..
  • 285/70/17 Cooper At3 4S on 17x8.5"Turbomacs - so in essense my gearing is higher, though I noticed the sluggishness prior to tire upgrade.
  • Plugs, fuel filter replaced & MAF and throttle body cleaned 1 year ago - noticed slight improvement in throttle response.
  • Doesn't blow smoke, don't notice any mixing of coolant and oil to indicate HG issue.
  • 5W-30 M1 synthetic changed every 5000 miles
  • New 75W-90 gear oil in F/C/R differential 2 years ago.
I do have a bad wheel bearing in the front, and have gotten Timken replacements for both sides, and am curious if this could cause a great degree of rolling resistance. Common sense would say that a bad bearing would of course impede rolling resistance, but seems it might be a stretch - hoping someone can chime in and provide some experience. I've got some axle boots that need replacing as well, but with all this snow we had in NC, my gravel drive is a muddy mess at the moment, and I have to wait to crawl underneath.

My other thought is a clogged cat, though my check engine light isn't on. Question here is if you can have a clogged cat and not have the CEL come on. I had an older Subaru that had clogged cats, and the initial performance seemed similar as though I had to give more throttle for less performance. The engine seems to be fine, but something down the line seems to be slowing it up, and I'd be grateful to hear from those who might've had a similar experience before I just start throwing more money at it. Just spent $1700 on labor alone to have a new rack put in.. Last vehicle I buy with any form of surface rust..
I have the same 2000 lx470, and had the same symptom. I also own a 2006 which granted has the vvt but was way quicker. I fixed the sluggish acceleration issue with a Napa tps (which is technically called something else can’t recall). Instantly better acceleration and power.
 
I have the same 2000 lx470, and had the same symptom. I also own a 2006 which granted has the vvt but was way quicker. I fixed the sluggish acceleration issue with a Napa tps (which is technically called something else can’t recall). Instantly better acceleration and power.
I would like to hear more about this. I have an 03 and an 05 and the 05 is wayyyyyy more sensitive to throttle input
 
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It’s part 22060-50011 (for up to’03 model year I think). You’ll see it called different things from APPS to TPS to Lever Assembly Throttle in some threads. I bought one on Amazon for $95 after chasing this through so many dang air & fuel dead ends it wasn’t even funny. Easy to return if it didn’t pan out. Takes all of one minute to swap in out.
Good luck.
 
I live in uk so may be a slight difference, but mine goes like a rocket it’ll spin wheels on a standing start until atrac sorts itself out . I do believe the exhaust manifolds restrict it a lot and did make a big difference on mine
 
It’s part 22060-50011 (for up to’03 model year I think). You’ll see it called different things from APPS to TPS to Lever Assembly Throttle in some threads. I bought one on Amazon for $95 after chasing this through so many dang air & fuel dead ends it wasn’t even funny. Easy to return if it didn’t pan out. Takes all of one minute to swap in out.
Good luck.
Much appreciated 👍
 
It’s part 22060-50011 (for up to’03 model year I think). You’ll see it called different things from APPS to TPS to Lever Assembly Throttle in some threads. I bought one on Amazon for $95 after chasing this through so many dang air & fuel dead ends it wasn’t even funny. Easy to return if it didn’t pan out. Takes all of one minute to swap in out.
Good luck.
Ordered. Will report back
 
I know this is an old thread and whatnot but did the original thread starter ever figure out what was wrong? I might have missed it somewhere.

If problem is still not discovered, could it be possible that the brake calipers aren't decompressing? I had a '99 LX that had two bad calipers where the cylinders didn't retract all the way ( or enough ) to allow the back wheels to spin freely. They held the brake pads against the rotor tightly and I shredded through two sets of pads in 8 months. Not to mention, the emergency brake had been worn down by the previous owner due to the same issue. They never let the E-brake up all the way and must have driven with it on a lot because it didn't work while I owned.
 

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