slow windows and poor defrost (1 Viewer)

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Nov 10, 2019
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Location
anchorage
New to the forum and trying to get some information on '96 FJ-80 windows that are slow and especially worse during the winter. Front defrost is also poor. Tried searching forums without much success. Any insight or education greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Could be your window runs are just dried out and binding up badly on the glass. I had lots of window problems until I treated them with some silicone paste, search "3m silicone paste" on Amazon.

One of my rear windows would go down then struggle to come back up and get stuck half-way. Once I lubed up the runs I had no trouble. This stuff can make a mess though, so be careful. Try to get it into the runs but give the window frame a few wipe-downs after exercising the windows a few times.

If your defroster is running poorly I would ask if you're getting any heat at all. I see you're in Alaska, I imagine it may take some time for the engine to warm up, especially if you're idling waiting for the heat to melt the ice off your windshield...
 
I’m not sure if this is the answer to the defrost but mine only works if I have the AC on. If I run the defroster without the AC button pushed in it blows warm air but won’t clear the windshield. Push the AC button and it clears up almost instantly. It’s the only car/truck I’ve have that works this way.
 
I’m not sure if this is the answer to the defrost but mine only works if I have the AC on. If I run the defroster without the AC button pushed in it blows warm air but won’t clear the windshield. Push the AC button and it clears up almost instantly. It’s the only car/truck I’ve have that works this way.

Remember your A/C unit also removes moisture from the air/cab, this would include any 'fogging' on the inside of the windshield if any is present. Of course..it should have no effect on the outside of the windshield melting frost/ice.
 
I’m not sure if this is the answer to the defrost but mine only works if I have the AC on. If I run the defroster without the AC button pushed in it blows warm air but won’t clear the windshield. Push the AC button and it clears up almost instantly. It’s the only car/truck I’ve have that works this way.
On some (most) vehicles, when defrost is selected, the AC turns on automatically to remove moisture from the air. On my 80, I have to push AC button to defrost. This clears the inside of the windshield quickly. For issues that are on the outside of the windshield, either low air flow or heater air temp is not warm enough.
 
I had a sticky/slow rear window. The window run itself simply pulls out without any tools. I put mine in a bucket with hot water and dish soap to let it soak. it was dry but also had some crud stuck in the runners so i cleaned it out good with a heavy bristle brush.

After that i slid it back in the door and lubed up the window run tracks with some lithium spray. No tools needed. This has fixed the problem so far and the last two months its been working great. It was a free repair but I am mentally prepared for it to give out again and spend $75 on a new run.
 
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Push, the A/C button when running the front defrost. I rebuilt all of my power window motors and packed them with Park bicycle grease. The original grease dries and turns to wax over time, slowing down the gears and putting strain on the motors. They're still 1997 slow, but much faster, and they roll up every time.
 
I think a lot of people would be surprised by just throwing new motors in. Just like the door lock actuators, they seem to wear out, accumulate schmoo, and stiffen up over time.
 
I replaced the regulators, motors, and channel runs in the front of mine. Had no issues the other day with temps in the 20’s. Still goes down a hair faster then it returns, but much better than before.

 
The slow window issue affects all the 80 range, experience dictates it is the window rubbers first, they harden and then the glass has trouble pushing the rubber out of the way as it travels up and down. This puts additional load on the motors burning the brushes/armature, this then adds load to the switch gear. And if all that is not enough the wiring over time ages and gains resistance further reducing the speed, and of course the window regulator itself could do with a good lubricating as well.

regards

Dave
 
I think a lot of people would be surprised by just throwing new motors in. Just like the door lock actuators, they seem to wear out, accumulate schmoo, and stiffen up over time.
I slapped a new aftermarket motor into the driver side. It's about 1.2 seconds faster than the other windows. The motors themselves don't spin very fast under no load.
 

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