slotted brake rotors?

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Dec 15, 2005
10,000 ft
:confused:I took the rig in to get a new set of front pads and possibly new rotors. The toyotas replacements rotors are about $90 and the slottted are $135. Anybody had experience with the slottted rotors? Anyway the question I have is they recommend I have a caliper service done in which they service the four pistons inside each caliper. Is this really neccesary?? What do you guys think?

Thanks- J
honestly I have them on my sc and as far as the racing world goes, unless there certain brands and designs of slotted or drilled brakes, your stock rotors out preform these “cheaper” brands of slotted/ drilled rotors, now saying this I bought a set of slotted and drilled rotors for my sc from ebay, from I-rotors $120 I think for all 4 and as far as I am concerned I love em and they look really cool too.
Just depends on what you want from them, since its for the cruiser I’d say stick with stock, if you do a lot of mudding and off roading you never know what could work its way in those slots and wholes making your life a living hell on the trail

hope that helps

Jason, a "caliper rebuild" is a very good thing to have done, and yes you should probably do it. One of the thing that causes your rotors to warp in the first place is the calipers could be sticking a little, causing too much heat to build up. Where are you taking your truck? If you're not married to them there's a guy up here in Louisville who is hands down one of the best 80 mechanics in the world.. and he can do your caliper rebuild as well as recommend rotors.

I'm running the slotted & drilled DBA's and like how they work but don't like how the little holes collect dirt.. slotted but not drilled would be better, IMO, if you want a set there's this really cool Russian guy out in Aurora who has a couple sets for sale. let me know if you want more info... hth.
Stock rotors from CDan is your best bet.
I've replaced the front OEM with Slotted Drilled DBA's and I had them warp worse and faster than the stockers ever did. But I think they brake a little better when hot. I put them on after a birf job with the PBR upgraded pads.
Funny, I thought all those holes were sposed to keep them cooler.
I just had them turned and replaced the pads, but once I got them out, I found I had alot more left to them and could have gotten away with just resurfacing the rotors. Good brake fluid is key. If it's been on a shelf for a year, get better stuff.
I replaced the OEM rears with some I found off the net, and I cant complain. I got both for the price of one slotted and they were even chem filmed gold.
My cruiser is used to foot full of throttle, and I brake like it's a shifter cart.

They'll be toast in another 15K....
Drilled rotors are 98% for show:flamingo: :princess: only, as it applies to our rigs. You've got less stopping area, and you've weakened the rotor by drilling it. One claim is that it lets the hot gases escape faster, but slotted rotors do the same thing without compromising the integrity of the rotor. The other claim is the weight factor, but without a timeslip, you'll never know, and most of us kill that whole premise anyway by installing larger wheels/tires.

As mentioned in the above posts, for combination on/off road use, the best solution is a solid vented rotor due to dirt becoming trapped in the slots.

So, to summarize choices in order of best to worst:

1. Solid
2. Slotted
3. Reach out with your hand and grab the tire.
4. Cut a hole in the floorboard and Flintstone it.
5. Drilled
6. Drilled/slotted
cruzizzle said:
So, to summarize choices in order of best to worst:

1. Solid
2. Slotted
3. Reach out with your hand and grab the tire.
4. Cut a hole in the floorboard and Flintstone it.
5. Drilled
6. Drilled/slotted

Haha what he said
We'll see how these things gonna last (all 4 Fr and Rr) so far so good 5 months already :D will update later...
Got a pair of drilled/slotted rotors with 5000 miles on 'em at the shop.

I'm trying to decide if I want to make some sculpture with 'em or just keep using them to hold the shelf down.

As far as the caliper "service" goes, I'd find out exactly what is being done. I took my Echo in for recall work last Friday and got a laundry list of unneeded stupid crap they wanted to do.

My bet is "clean and inspect" and maybe "lube the slider pins" that you don't even have. I very much doubt they are removing the pisons and replacing the seals and boots.

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