Sloppy rear output shaft from transfer?

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Unfortunately, my driveshaft bolts came loose on my 1988 hj75. It caused a vibration over 80km/h. Now my rear transfer shaft has about 2mm vertical slop, must be from the bearing on the shaft. Created by the rear drive shaft flopping about. A new seal on the extension housing helps a little, but a band aid for sure.
I have a spare h55f (unknown condition of the transmission )which the transfer shaft has no play in comparison.
Whilst not ideal to drive around, it is only going to get worse,. How long before, at the very least the transfer needs to be rebuilt? Asap I guess..
 
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From what I can see on the fsm and cruiser brothers youtubby, it involves removing the rear output shaft bearing retainer (which has the speedo cable input). Then, more than likely, lessening the value of the shim?, most shims are a difference of 0.1mm which changes preload by 10kg, which should be plenty. These shims do not appear to be easily accessible in Oz, probably toyota or amayama..or get the whole transfer kit which is easy to acquire.

Thank you old blue.
 
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Hmm, no again. I can't find any shims on the spare h55 transfer? Here is some pics.
1654127776252.png

Rear output transfer shaft and bearing.
1654127890691.png

Companion flange..
1654127990443.png

Rear output shaft bearing retainer with bearing race removed. The race has a worn groove so it probably needs things changed out. But I can't find any shims?! When the retainer was installed, the shaft had no slop like my shaft in the good hj75. Could have the pvo removed shims in the past to remove slop? Where do the shims go?
 
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Ordered some shims from toyota, they have not many in Oz , have to get them from Japan. Be great if an Ozzie dealer sold them, don't want to drive around with slop in the transfer output shaft..
 
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Glad I pulled off the rear output shaft bearing retainer to have a look for what damage was done. The driveshaft rattled the output shaft of the transfer, explaining the leak which I thought was just the speedo cable initially, and then the output seal. This is what it did to the bearing race and shim. The driveshaft wobble cut the shim up.
1654310156395.png


The recent history of the driveline is, I changed rear axle housing, springs, diif was fine. I probably didn't take enough care lubing the driveshaft, I did it, but not consciously enough. The driveshaft unijoint is stiff in one direction on the transfer side.
Did a fair bit of heavy 2t towing over some very bad roads. So the driveshaft rattled loose, all four bolts were still on. Explaining the over 80kmh vibration, after going over and checking virtually every front suspension, tyre and steering component.
Also, the transfer started filling from the oil of the transmission. I put one of those hose equalizer bandaids for now. All coincided with the heavy towing and consequent driveshaft vibration.

Biggest lesson learnt, check driveshaft bolts regularly, grease driveshaft consciously. Especially after heavy towing.

For now, I shall re- shim the bearing race and new uni and re-balance the driveshaft from the pros. Not worth me trying to balance a driveshaft on an iffy transfer bearing myself. The transfer oil drain plug magnet had some fine metal swarf, which makes sense with the shim grinding away.

At the very least, I am up for a transfer rebuild, new bearings. I have a 2000km round trip for work coming up in a 2 weeks, not sure if I can muster the parts and tools before the trip to do the rebuild before. Be good to have the kukko internal bearing puller.

Am I taking too much of a chance on the that transfer bearing?
 
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For now I got what shims toyota has in Oz and set the preload back to spec. There is quite a few sizes of them, which makes you think mr toyo allowed for some wear of those bearings. I used the race from the spare transfer as it was not marred. Not best practice but better than what it was for sure. Shall change the transfer bearings in the near future.

Checking the preload on the transfer is really worth doing, especially if your driveshaft came loose. I also changed the uni joints. There is no play in the driveshaft when mounted now, no vibrations over 80kmh. A barely perceptible sense of needing a bit more clutch release on a hill which makes sense as the transfer output is not loosey goosey. The output shaft feels quite firm to spin when the preload is correct.

Feels way better.
 

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