Sloppy handling and engine noises (1 Viewer)

[greentruck]

To be honest, I really just want it to ride as well as it can and to be able to traverse some minor stuff. SNIP

If those coils haven't been changed out, you'll be amazed how much difference a fresh set of OME 861/862 will make. Easy to do, as no need for caster correction, just swap the coils. If the shocks are fresh, no need to touch them. You really need a little weight up front for them to work for you, but you'll really feel the difference.

 

[bmorgan]

If those coils haven't been changed out, you'll be amazed how much difference a fresh set of OME 861/862 will make. Easy to do, as no need for caster correction, just swap the coils. If the shocks are fresh, no need to touch them. You really need a little weight up front for them to work for you, but you'll really feel the difference.

I'm between 861/862 with maybe a spacer up front or the 2.5's (851/860). I'm going to do the shocks and coils at the same time - shocks are 21 years old too (they can legally drink!). And of course it would be nice to NOT have to press out those bushings. I need a new set of treads, but I plan on sticking with the 285/16's.

I recently read on here where someone posted what the center hub to fender would measure for each different setup (stock, 861/862, 851/860). Anyone know where I saw that? I'll keep looking but I didn't see if under FAQ and the first two pages of search.

I found that original height (center hub to fender) = 19" - 20"

 

[bmorgan]

Well, I found this - which compares an all original rig with some OME mediums and heavies.

Then I found this - which compares an original rig to the 861/862.

So it looks like our 80 will sag about an inch from stock over time (from 19.5 down to about 18.5). it looks like the 861/862 will give an aging rig about 2 inches (18.5 to 20.5). The mediums will give, over an older suspension, 3 inches or a little more (18.5 to 22.5). Just in case someone was looking for that info.

 

[bmorgan]

So... an update.

Steering: The steering adjustment really helped, but after i put in a little leak dye, I saw that I had a pretty good leak from the pump. And since I had one on the shelf, along with the accompanying hoses, I did that job. It's been bled and ready to go, but I haven't driven it yet. I feels nice and smooth though. I plan on trying to clean off most of the caked on oil this weekend and watch it. Hopefully that's solved.

Engine oil leaks. Since the steering was leaking so bad, I'm not 100% sure what's leaking, but I'm pretty sure the distributor was leaking. it's so easy, I knocked that out. The gasket just snapped off. It was gone. I went ahead and threw in the new plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap for good measure. I started to jump into the valve cover, but after a lot of, "while you are in there" reading, I'm going to wait and order some parts (PHH, front crank seal, oil pump seal, etc.) I was planning on adjusting the valves while I was in there too, which is good because...

Engine noise - you guys nailed it. I just yanked the idler pulley and started it up a minute ago. Man - it's SOOO much better. That's definitely it. But now I can really tell i need a valve job. I hear some knocking going on in there. But still, I'm so grateful for the idler pulley info. I only ran it for about 3 minutes and it sounds like a new truck by comparison. I couldn't find a M10 X 1.25 in my hardware to replace the idler pulley bolt (i have 10mm 1's and 1.5's), but I can deal with that later. I'm just happy I found it. I was afraid I was about to start a ghost hunt.

Thank you guys so much. I hate that I wrote this convoluted thread, but I felt like I was fighting so many fronts. Now I feel I can just focus on the valve cover / valve job / oil leaks / "while you are in there" stuff. And I'll address the suspension after that. Thanks again.

 

[Funner]

So... an update.

Steering: The steering adjustment really helped, but after i put in a little leak dye, I saw that I had a pretty good leak from the pump. And since I had one on the shelf, along with the accompanying hoses, I did that job. It's been bled and ready to go, but I haven't driven it yet. I feels nice and smooth though. I plan on trying to clean off most of the caked on oil this weekend and watch it. Hopefully that's solved.

Engine oil leaks. Since the steering was leaking so bad, I'm not 100% sure what's leaking, but I'm pretty sure the distributor was leaking. it's so easy, I knocked that out. The gasket just snapped off. It was gone. I went ahead and threw in the new plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap for good measure. I started to jump into the valve cover, but after a lot of, "while you are in there" reading, I'm going to wait and order some parts (PHH, front crank seal, oil pump seal, etc.) I was planning on adjusting the valves while I was in there too, which is good because...

Engine noise - you guys nailed it. I just yanked the idler pulley and started it up a minute ago. Man - it's SOOO much better. That's definitely it. But now I can really tell i need a valve job. I hear some knocking going on in there. But still, I'm so grateful for the idler pulley info. I only ran it for about 3 minutes and it sounds like a new truck by comparison. I couldn't find a M10 X 1.25 in my hardware to replace the idler pulley bolt (i have 10mm 1's and 1.5's), but I can deal with that later. I'm just happy I found it. I was afraid I was about to start a ghost hunt.

Thank you guys so much. I hate that I wrote this convoluted thread, but I felt like I was fighting so many fronts. Now I feel I can just focus on the valve cover / valve job / oil leaks / "while you are in there" stuff. And I'll address the suspension after that. Thanks again.

Good for you, don't forget to drive it and enjoy it some too.

 

[alia176]

Good for you, don't forget to drive it and enjoy it some too.

and by that he means drive it like you stole it!! These engines are very tough and loves to get beat on.