Sloppy handling and engine noises (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bmorgan
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Have "resealed" a bunch of them, with use the preloads are lost, when the preloads properly reset the result is a tighter box. Most of the things in the box can be replaced, bearings, oversized balls, etc, but rarely need it. Most of the ones we do are on oversized tire, wheeling type rigs, so set the preload, rolling drag, on the high end or over stock spec, tighter than stock boxes.
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It's not all of that, just a bit fiddly. Keep track of them, 33 go in the piston, 11 in the bridge.
This is the important part, lots of things can cause it, tossing $$$/parts at the wrong stuff, replacing good parts, isn't productive.
alia176
SILVER Star
That's good info Kevin, thanks. Since things just get worn over time, adjusting the preload and rolling drag sounds like the ticket.
Do you use a rebuild kit from Toyota or some other vendor?
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Don't see paying the price to have Toyota bless my o-rings and their kit doesn't include the the parts for the input section, so aftermarket.
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You can guess, but knowing what the preloads are is better? So, an inch pound beam type torque wrench and somehow to attach it to the input spline. Our "SST" is part of an old column with a 1/4" socket tacked onto it.
It's not all of that, just a bit fiddly. Keep track of them, 33 go in the piston, 11 in the bridge.
This is the important part, lots of things can cause it, tossing $$$/parts at the wrong stuff, replacing good parts, isn't productive.
Good use of the magnetic CB antenna mounts
Hey B,
Well, the path of least resistance sure would have been to leave it stock with 33s and maybe spacers...but if I'd known I'd basically have to replace the whole suspension when I lifted it 2.5", I might have just bit the bullet and lifted 4" and gone with 35s right off the bat.
Helpful, huh?
bmorgan
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- Thread starter
- #30
Well, we've checked the basics. Everything seems tight - the bearings, trunnions, and the steering linkage. So I moved on to the adjustment. I fully removed the nut and the adjustment screw does not move freely. I was able to adjust it some, but all the way in and there was still come slack in the wheel. Granted, I'm not sure I was getting the screw all the way in. I then backed the screw all the way out so I can feel the difference in the steering wheel. Now I'm having trouble getting the screw back in.
So if the adjustment screw is all the way in and there is still slack in the input shaft (pitman not moving) what does that mean?
So if the adjustment screw is all the way in and there is still slack in the input shaft (pitman not moving) what does that mean?
bmorgan
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- Thread starter
- #32
Well, test drive: feels better but it might be too tight. I got back and thought I would loosen it a bit - there was oil coming out of the adjustment screw. Turns out the binding released once it warmed so things weren't tight. Tightened the locking nut and no more leak. Steering feels a lot better - just concerned it's too tight. There is still about .5 inch play. Could it be in the steering column linkage/yoke?
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Never gone too tight myself, as that was what I heard would be bad back in FJ55 days. I'd take it just a bit looser and see what you have.
Half an inch actually sounds pretty good for an old truck. Set the adjuster where you feel is best and then drive it awhile.
Half an inch actually sounds pretty good for an old truck. Set the adjuster where you feel is best and then drive it awhile.
bmorgan
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- Thread starter
- #34
My plan exactly. Driving to work this morning felt a LOT better. I still have the loose half / 1 inch play which I think is in the linkage, but it's a lot better overall. Now on to addressing the suspension, I guess. I just need to decide. Mr Overrit has me questioning my plan to go 2.5"
I have all but the PCV valve on order. I also could stand looking at the EGR setup. Great advice on the idle pulley. I'll start reading up on it. Thank you very much for the advice, Box Rocket.
Follow these instruction and understand there will be some slop in the system.
surfpig
The Anti-Tech
Just make sure that the steering can go back to center after turning. Also, that adjusting nut has an oil seal associated with it, and it can fail after messing with it, so keep an eye on that.
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This, it's not a rack system, so will always have play. If it drives like herding cats, check the toe. Alignment Setting Toe
bmorgan
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- Thread starter
- #38
I think I nailed the setting. And the oil washer... I was a little concerned and will keep an eye on it, especially since I have one on the shelf. But there appears to be no leaking. And I think I might give my white LC the same treatment - just not as much adjustment as my grey one needed.
No more cats, but I think it could be better. Considering all the front end work I've done, I'm sure I could use some alignment. Great write up. I'll do this when I replace my steering arm studs to the new style (and replace the dam inner seal AGAIN!). This writeup is great - short and to the point. Well done, sir.
Sounds good, but check that toe-in. She may practically steer herself once all cleaned up as best you can.
I think once that's done and she's happy going down the road, if you take care to replace bushings and any other expendables, lifting 2.5" should be fine. Not big on that myself, mostly cause I need to fit the garage, but if that fits your needs no reason not to if you follow up on making sure the caster is all squared away when done.
bmorgan
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- #40
To be honest, I really just want it to ride as well as it can and to be able to traverse some minor stuff. Down here, we mostly just have mud and high water. High centering is the best way to stop going forward and the only way to improve that is larger tires - mine are big enough. Lift would help with the water (with breather extensions). But I also want to keep it "livable". I too have a garage to be concerned about, but I don't think 2.5" will be a problem. I remain on the fence. Thank you for everyone's help and insight. It's invaluable.
