Slipping shifting into 2nd (1 Viewer)

[Ehall1998]

Please link me the thread if this has been answered but I could not find an answer. I have a 1998 uzj100 with ~ 291k on the original transmission. Lately I have been noticing a slight slip when shifting from 1st into 2nd. It is a hesitation then a "smooth" thump into 2nd. 3rd to 4th always shifts smoothly. Wondering if it is something to be of concern or if I never noticed it for some reason until my wife pointed it out.

I'm still working on baselining the rig and did do a transmission fluid exchange approximately 2k ago. If anyone has an idea of what would cause this please let me know and if I am just being paranoid, please ease my concerns.

 

[flintknapper]

Please link me the thread if this has been answered but I could not find an answer. I have a 1998 uzj100 with ~ 291k on the original transmission. Lately I have been noticing a slight slip when shifting from 1st into 2nd. It is a hesitation then a "smooth" thump into 2nd. 3rd to 4th always shifts smoothly. Wondering if it is something to be of concern or if I never noticed it for some reason until my wife pointed it out.

I'm still working on baselining the rig and did do a transmission fluid exchange approximately 2k ago. If anyone has an idea of what would cause this please let me know and if I am just being paranoid, please ease my concerns.

With the A343F transmission you can drop the pan and increase the Line Pressure (which will help firm up the shifts) IF your friction discs and steels are still serviceable. No tools necessary. Just push in on the cap, slide the retainer up, rotate to 'high' and button it back up.

 

[Ehall1998]

With the A343F transmission you can drop the pan and increase the Line Pressure (which will help firm up the shifts) IF your friction discs and steels are still serviceable. No tools necessary. Just push in on the cap, slide the retainer up, rotate to 'high' and button it back up.

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This may be the answer to my prayers. I really appreciate this.

 

[HazzeL]

I have something similar on my -01 diesel. Except that the slippage is between 2nd and 3rd. Maybe the shift is slightly firmer when i am pushing the accelerator slightly harder. At least it is not slipping more, which should happen, in my logic.

I got the rustbucket *heavy sigh* a couple of months ago, to do the occasional towing, but the tranny has obviously to be sorted out to cope with the intended use.
I did change the fluid directly when i got the vehicle, and it was dark and with that nasty burnt smell. Got some 6 qts out of it, but did not drop the pan. Maybe 1000 miles later i got another 6 qts out, and now the fluid was looking nice. I put Mobil ATF320 in it, which is fulfilling the requirements.

I guess I will give it a try first with "Lubegard Automatic transmission fluid protectant" to see what happens. If i can get it shipped here to to the remote corners of Europe..

The vehicle has some 400000 miles (690000 kms) on it, and could not find any info on any work on the tranny. I do know that the previous owner did some heavy towing.

 

[HazzeL]

With the A343F transmission you can drop the pan and increase the Line Pressure (which will help firm up the shifts) IF your friction discs and steels are still serviceable.




How do i know if my friction discs and steels are serviceable?

 

[flintknapper]

Two ways:

1. Be certain your fluid is clean and fresh and that shift pressures are correct (or increase line pressure). When these parameters are met....IF your trans still slips...chances are you have worn/burned friction discs/plates. If they don't slip....they are still serviceable to some extent. Brown and burned smelling fluid usually precedes disc failure, but new fluid can be swapped in to hide this.

2. Tear the transmission down and visually inspect. I recommend #1 above first.


**** There are certain other conditions that can cause slipping, but none that the DIYer can address without tearing into the trans or valve body.

 

[HazzeL]

Two ways:

1. Be certain your fluid is clean and fresh and that shift pressures are correct (or increase line pressure). When these parameters are met....IF your trans still slips...chances are you have worn/burned friction discs/plates. If they don't slip....they are still serviceable to some extent. Brown and burned smelling fluid usually precedes disc failure, but new fluid can be swapped in to hide this.

2. Tear the transmission down and visually inspect. I recommend #1 above first.


**** There are certain other conditions that can cause slipping, but none that the DIYer can address without tearing into the trans or valve body.

Thanks! Where can i measure the shift pressures, and what values should they be? I do have a laptop with Techstream, can that be of any help? (Although i am not entirely comfortable around computers.. )

 

[flintknapper]

Thanks! Where can i measure the shift pressures, and what values should they be? I do have a laptop with Techstream, can that be of any help? (Although i am not entirely comfortable around computers..

Techstream would be of no help here. There is a service port on the side of transmission. Remove the plug and connect a pressure gauge there (it will need to have a long hose so you can view it from up top).

I'd have to look up the values, but typically the pressures would be taken at idle in both Drive and Reverse. Depending on what you find there....you might need to do a stall speed pressure test (also in Drive and Reverse).

 

[AlpineAccess]

Did you have this soft shift before exchanging the trans fluid?

If no, have someone verify fluid levels per FSM.