slipping clutch

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Apr 24, 2003
is there an adjustment to stop the clutch slipping while going up hill in 3rd or 4th (1980 hj45) or is it time for a new clutch.

if i was to replace the clutch, my idea was get a couple of floor jacks,undo all the bolts, lower the gearbox and transfer with them, change out the clutch put the new clutch in in the reverse order, and bolt it back together.

any holes in that theory?

any special tools?

would it be much harder to redo the rear main seal while i'm in there?

is there anything i need to do to the flywheel?

do i need to undo linkages or will they drop through the holes in the floor no prob?

do i need to detatch park brake cables and speedo cables? clutch hydrolic lines?
Your thoughts seem to be good for the replacement. You will need to remove the shifters as well as the t-case linkage, atleast I had to. The rear seal while the engine is in the truck should not be that bad, but being able to see everything to make sure you get it in straight might be a challenge. The hardest part I see would be the pilot bearing if it needs to be replaced. I had to get the slde hammer out to get mine removed. Parking brake and speedo cables can stay attached just swing them out of the way. If the flywheel is old, I would take it out to be turned. You could very easily chew up a new clutch on an old flywheel. It would suck to have to do the same process in another month.
You do need to remove the flywheel to replace the rear seal, which is a bit of a project (not too bad, but you know, invested time, plus you need new lock plates, etc). If the seal is leaking, do it, but if not, you may find it a PITA for nothing gained.

As for the pilot bearing, I was all prepared for a battle with it and when I got in there, it fell out!

I think you can adjust the piston length on the slave cylinder on an '80 and that may help your clutch slipping (anyway, that is what I did on my '71). You may want to try that before you delve deeper, since dropping the tranny/transfer (and getting everything lined up to put it back into that pilot) is a chore.
I bought the clutch alingment tool from SOR, it was worth the price. for lowering the trans/transfer you can use a 4x4 or other suitable material, open both windows and slide thru and use a come-a-long. works pretty good, than you don't have to worry about the unit slipping off the jack.
Bleed the system and adj the pushrod. Check the pedal ht and the pedal pushrod adj. A clutch will last a LONG time. Check all the other stuff out first. make sure it really is slipping.
I Telephoned several places and the best quote was $748.00 from a place on Waverley road Malvern East, Also this place gave individual prices for each part and their customer service over the Telephone was by far the best of the lot. :)

I thought about doing the Clutch myself, But as I don't have a Transmission Jack and all the other special Tools. Also if I stuffed up over the weekend I would have to get the Bus and Train to School. :mad:
i didn't mean to complete this topic yet, can i uncomplete?

the clutch slips in 3rd and 4th up hill, unless there is a fair amount of momenum behind me (like 120km/hr)

sometimes with rushed 1st gear take offs.

should i be smelling burning clutch, as i am not.

could it be due to oil leaks that the clutch is slipping? if so how would i clean it? degreaser and rinse?

is their an inspection plate, and if so where would i be likely to locate it. clutch is bled and fairly well adjusted (just replaced master cylinder, not because it died, but because i stole it for my other cruiser and just replaced it, but it was slipping before this)

also their was an oil leak which a mechanic told me was due to the rear main being shot, but i used that "stop leak" oil additive, and haven't had a drop leak from anywhere for weeks (yes it has oil ::) )

doing the rebuild myself would be ok, as it is my bro's cruiser, and he's a year off getting his license, i'm just driving it because i'm a loving brother trouble shooting it for him (and my cruiser's busted a rear drive shaft and maybe diff)
If your clutch has been slipping for while they become polished and lose the burning smell.
If its been leaking oil from the rear mains DEFINATELY replace it as it could come back the day after your clutch goes in.
If your still not sure its the clutch,can you honestly say it hasnt been mistreated due to racing take offs,racing gear changes, hard accelleration,overloading with passengers ect:-X.If you answered no to all of those things then further inspection should be carried out.Otherwise your 1st post had most of the bases covered and its a matter of when to start rather than if.Make sure you put in a kit rather than just a clutch plate.I paid about $300 for my FJ73 clutch :flipoff2:
Jonathon that quote for the clutch is reasonable.5-6 hours labour at 50 per hour and 300-350 for parts
b_r_au your brother sure is lucky hes got you looking after his truck for him :D
yeah i know.

honestly it hasn't been overloaded too often, more an exception than the norm.

it's a 2000 kg diesel truck, it knows this and i know this, so there haven't been any hard take offs etc. it looks like it'll be time for a new clutch then eh?
a new clutch kit from the place down the road from me is $300, that includes everything. Or so they said, i havn't brought it yet. But it does look as if i may be given the said hj for nix ;) Which means i have some more time to do it.

how is it you reckon it only slips in 3and 4? I would have thought you would have problems in all gears? I remember someone saying a while ago that ratchet straps were a saviour when manipulating the gearbox and t/case assbly. Dont spose you have a digi-cam that you want to doco what you do when you do so i can learn from your mistakes? :)

s79bj40 they always slip where the torque overtakes the frictional grip of the clutch which is takeoff from a standing start or in top gears when trying to accellerate uphill.It just varies on vehicles regarding hp,torque,weight and size of clutch ect
sb79fj40 the rachet straps would be good ,similar to 3_puppies post (4th post)
[quote author=roscoFJ73 link=board=1;threadid=5053;start=msg39759#msg39759 date=1063202216]
s79bj40 they always slip where the torque overtakes the frictional grip of the clutch which is takeoff from a standing start or in top gears when trying to accellerate uphill.It just varies on vehicles regarding hp,torque,weight and size of clutch ect

Automotive clutches are not designed to slip in high gear on uphills. If it is slipping at all in any gear it is either worn out, not adjusted correctly, or you have not matched the clutch to the job you want it to do. Slipping is never normal.
Theo We are talking about worn out clutches not perfectly good ones .A little slip is normal so you can take off from a standing start and achieve a smooth gear change otherwise gear changes would be unpleasent especially when towing a load uphill or pulling a boat out.
so high gear slip is normal for a old hj? Its just that a 3.6litre 6 is no v8, and I would have thought high torque reuirements going up hills at speed, the ol' 6 wouln't give enough big Nm s to break traction with the rest of the drivetrain? Hrm, whatever it is, sounds like a fun job BadR and i have to do thou. The current clutch on (mine) is MIA. Last seen 40 clicks from the homestead :(

how bad is it to change gears without the clutch? i'm quite proficient at it since last time my clutch master let go.

the old diesel puts out a fair wack of torque off the bottom end of it's power band. it's not a normal occurance for a hj to slip clutches more than any other vehicle. consider it's 1950kg dry weight, no accessories, then add driver, fluids, gear then a hill, is about the only time it slips. it'll either been a worn clutch, misadjustment (doubt this cause it's been adjusted recently, but may prove me wrong) or could be leaking fluids from a rear main seal.

i'll try to get some pics together when i do it, still a few weeks away, gotta fix my truck first
[quote author=bad_religion_au link=board=1;threadid=5053;start=msg40084#msg40084 date=1063246835]
how bad is it to change gears without the clutch? i'm quite proficient at it since last time my clutch master let go.[/quote]If you do it well there's no problem. Much grinding at all gets rather ugly inside.

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