Slee's caster plates: did you have to grind the arms? (1 Viewer)

e9999

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Thinking about putting Christo's caster plates on.

Wondering about how many of you had to grind the control arms (as he indeed warns us may be the case for some trucks), and how much.

If you measured before and after, I have about 1 1/4" spacing now between tie rod and control arm with no caster correction and no lift, and about 7/8" at full OEM stock shock droop (equivalent to 6" lift). Likely to need grinding as far as you can tell?
 
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concretejungle

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Those arms are some seriously tough steel. Just this little bit took a long time. Plus, in order to grind on them you have to drop the arm.
steering cancer (Small).jpg
 

e9999

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looks like an 1/8" or so?
 

Cruiserdrew

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I think about 1/8 inch is about right. It takes longer than you might think. If you just do OME heavy, use the caster bushings.
 

e9999

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Cruiserdrew said:
I think about 1/8 inch is about right. It takes longer than you might think. If you just do OME heavy, use the caster bushings.
you did it too, I take it?
 

Cruiserdrew

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e9999 said:
you did it too, I take it?
Yes-I actually ground them twice. The first time, I didn't take off enough. It got to where I could pull the leading arms out in just a couple of moments. When I did mine, I ground them up closer to the bushing than it shows in the picture. If you just do the heavy suspension, none of this is necessary. The caster bushings really are easier. The plates require significant grinding and test fitting. No big deal, but not a 5 minute job either. Then you still need to weld into place.


If you are worried about installing the caster bushings, install the suspension, it will still drive OK. Drive up to Mudrak's. Drop the arms, have him press the bushings, re-install the arms, and drive home. It could easily be done in a day from Santa Barbara. If you took the weekend, it would be even better.
 

e9999

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nope, not worried about installing the bushings and would do it myself. But I don't think they'll be enough for 850s on my rig, so I'm leaning towards the plates and would like to understand better what's involved.

Anybody who put the plates on and did not need to grind the arms?
 

e9999

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Waggoner5 said:
I did not have to grind the arms on my truck. J springs no bumpers.
Gary
do you know how much gap there is left?
 
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but Slee's plates are made for rigs with a minimum of 4inches of lift, not a stock suspension. I work on the lift before I get to the grinding and if it's an OME 2.5 I would stick with the OME bushings.
 

concretejungle

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castor, castor, castor. . . . . . it's been hashed around for years now. Each truck is different. Some need greater castor correction sooner than others. Put on the lift, then get an alignment and take it from there. Try the bushings first, if they arent' enough go with the plates.
 

landtank

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I persoanlly wouldn't buy any type of correction until after the alignment. Just jambing stuff on and ignoring the results is asking for problems.

How many threads have there been that there was some sort of issue after the lift. And 99% of the people never verify the caster, they just move on to buying more hardware and generally throw money at it.

Setting up the front axle properly isn't that hard. But everyone wants the simple answer to a complex question.
 

cruiserdan

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Rick is spot-on.

The vehicle should have a caster sweep before lifting and should have one post lift before caster correction to see what it's going to take to get it back. The only exception would be if going with a standard OME configuration with OME bushings since OME already figured that one out for you.

D-
 

landtank

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cruiserdan said:
The only exception would be if going with a standard OME configuration with OME bushings since OME already figured that one out for you.

D-

It would seem not always in this case as well. From working with a few guys who have put on the 850s their caster needs were well above what these bushings will provide. It has to do with how much weight you have on the truck to where the front sits.

If you are in the 22.0"~24.0" hub center/fender height than you will probably need 4*~7* of correction. This is based on my personal experience and the results of a couple that have actually taken the time to evaluate their trucks. And this is still ball park as not everyone measures this the same.

And getting an alignment afterwards to properly set toe will make a big difference in the final out come. After I corrected my caster I thought the truck drove great but continued with the alignment which substantially improved it's road manners even more.
 

concretejungle

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Rick you are once again correct in my opinion. THread after thread has shown a wide range of castor in these trucks. An alignment will show you what you are working with and where to go next.
 

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