Slee Headlight Harness problems- questions... (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Doc

Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Threads
234
Messages
5,820
Location
Utah
My fogs quit working today. (well, I noticed it today..)

I was swapping out my fogs today and I have them tied into the Slee headlight harness to activate with my brights. I hit the brights to check the new fogs and they did not power up. In the process of diagnosis I found the following:

At the relay before the aux light wiring there are 4 wires, with the brights turned on I found this-

1. Red (Hot as per my test light grounded to the battery)
2. Blue (nothing)
3. Purple (hot)
4. yellow (when probed with my grounded test light I heard an audible click and then the fogs turned on- when test light removed, the lights turned off)

Bad relay?
 
Bump to the top, I'd really like to get this fixed this weekend, and I don't know much about electronics.
 
May be a bad ground...where the fog lights working before you put in new ones? If so, something may have loosened up during the install. I would check everything over and make sure all connections are tight and verify that the new fog lights are to be wired the same as the old.

- Mark
 
Have you swapped relays yet? - IIRC from mine it was 2 smaller relays, 1 for each side.

I had a problem with mine at the start - the connection for the input/trigger wires to the relays wasn't a great connection, so I cut the ends & used some bullet terminals - worked fine since.
 
Don't have the answer for you, but I had recurring problems with the relays supplied in the original Slee headlight harness. You might try to isolate the relay.
 
May be a bad ground...where the fog lights working before you put in new ones? If so, something may have loosened up during the install. I would check everything over and make sure all connections are tight and verify that the new fog lights are to be wired the same as the old.

- Mark

I didn't change anything other than to unplug the old lights and plug in the new ones. Didn't change any wiring at all.
 
If it was a relay couldnt you test that with a DMM?
 
No, I don't have any spare relay's in my spares box.

Unless I'm losing some of my marbles (always possible/probable), the relay portion of the harness was a twin setup, 1 controlled each side - so swap the relay sockets side to side & see if that rectifies your problem - I read you as one side was good, the other giving you problems - at least this would isolate down the bad actor. Was I reading wrong?

Also, are you running the subharness for the fogs Christo sells, or did you piggyback off the basic harness - I went back & re-read, didn't see where you specified how your fogs got trigger / true full voltage. Maybe I just don't see it in your wording.
 
Last edited:
(when probed with my grounded test light I heard an audible click and then the fogs turned on- when test light removed, the lights turned off)
This assures me that you have a grounding problem and not a bad relay. Check all your ground connections.
 
I'm running the slee aux harness as well. I'll see if I can get some time tonight to check grounds.
 
Last edited:
If you have the older harness with the piece of s*** black square relays thats the issue. Might as well buy them by the gross because thats how fast I go through them. The newer harness has relays that match a HELLA relay. Much better option and easier to find.
 
I bought the aux harness last week and it has black square relays. Are these the ones we are all talking about being bad??
 
I have the same square black relays and haven't had a bit of problem. Use mine daily driving to work and they work perfectly. Biggest problem with 12v relays are poor connections at terminations on both ground and power side. Over the years I've had only 2 bad 12v relays used in car/truck lighting circuits and I put a lot of watts thru them regularly. Properly terminated wire in quality lugs screwed on tightly helps a bunch. Some of the female tab connectors sold are very poor quality and lack good tension around a terminal commonly found on relays resulting in corrosion and connection problems. It pays to buy quality like T&B or Sta-Kon.
 
So call me an idiot.

I finally got time to trace out the yellow wire that was giving me fits. I was just about to cut it and splice it to ground- but I decided to see where it goes.

Guess what?

It goes to a fog-light switch in the cab that I forgot I had. The switch had apparently been bumped to the off position, and since I NEVER use the switch- I had forgotten I had the ability to turn the fogs off even on high beam. So, I flipped the fog switch- and guess what? I have fogs again.

*slams head against wall* (repeatedly)
 
Eric-

Appreciate the honesty and reporting back to this thread- you are a good man! I have found that "MUD paranoia" can have us all overlooking the "easy" stuff first when it comes to trouble shooting our rigs....
 
That is awesome!
You are a bigger man than most for admitting that. Congrats of figuring it out.
:beer:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom