Slee Battery Tray and Terminal--Install and Thoughts (1 Viewer)

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Just installed the Slee battery tray. I installed the full kit, including the bottom tray and top cover. I also installed the billets and positive billet cover. Overall, I was really impressed by the quality of the products. Even the packaging was outstanding. A couple minor questions do arise, however (see end of thread).

Here are photos of the install. The directions were clear, and the install was simple. It might have been a bit humorous to my neighbor, though, who caught me while I was tightening the bolts of the lower tray. In order to keep one hand on the allen key wrench inside the hood while my other hand operated a wrench in the fender area below, I had to stand one foot, put my other foot on the bumper, and essentially hug the front corner of the truck with my body and face. I fear my neighbor thought I loved my truck a little too much.

Predrilling:

20221002_133651.jpg


After drilling the one additional required hole:


20221002_140347.jpg


Bolts installed, above:



20221002_141405.jpg


Bolts installed, below:

20221002_141438.jpg


Completed installation:


20221002_164514.jpg


My battery choice was a Duralast Battery 31-950 Group Size 31 950 CCA. This battery has a couple hundred more CCAs than the stock battery, from what I gather. It also has a reserve capacity of 195 minutes, which seems to be about 30 minutes more than stock. It also has great reviews. It had threaded posts, which required me to use adapters.

My top area is a little messy, I know, but I don't think I'll find the time do a slicker fuse setup that some folks have here. Everything is rated properly and works.

During the install of the billets, one of the button bolt holes stripped. I'm pretty sure I was using modest torque, so I think the hole was imperfect. But no big deal, because the billets have tons of holes.

Another issue was that the negative billet didn't slide easily over the terminal. That's because my terminal was a little too wide though. I hadn't found the perfect threaded-post-to-standard-terminal adapter. So I gave the billet a few taps to get it on. It fits nicely there now, though my extreme lack of interest in stopping my install to go on a hunt for a narrower adapter that would likely be impossible to find in my area resulted in some aesthetic damage to the coating on the billet. That was my choice in the moment.

One remaining concern is that the height of the battery in the tray resulted in the front end of the top cover resting at least half an inch above the screw hole. To screw in that end, I had to push the cover down hard with one hand while tightening the factory screw. I worry I'm putting that screw under a lot of excess tension and possibly even pushing down harder on the battery than would be ideal.

This is the screw: https://partsouq.com/es/search/all?q=9011908974#9011908974-1. It's got a weird tip. I'd love to replace it with something longer, so that I can use a 1/4" spacer in my setup to reduce the tension in my setup. But after searching online, I couldn't find such a screw. If anyone can advise on how to procure a longer screw, please do.
 
Last edited:
Just installed the Slee battery tray. I installed the full kit, including the bottom tray and top cover. I also installed the billets and positive billet cover. Overall, I was really impressed by the quality of the products. Even the packaging was outstanding. A couple minor questions do arise, however (see end of thread).

Here are photos of the install. The directions were clear, and the install was simple. It might have been a bit humorous to my neighbor, though, who caught me while I was tightening the bolts of the lower tray. In order to keep one hand on the allen key wrench inside the hood while my other hand operated a wrench in the fender area below, I had to stand one foot, put my other foot on the bumper, and essentially hug the front corner of the truck with my body and face. I fear my neighbor thought I loved my truck a little too much.

Predrilling:

View attachment 3130682

After drilling the one additional required hole:


View attachment 3130683

Bolts installed, above:



View attachment 3130684

Bolts installed, below:

View attachment 3130685

Completed installation:


View attachment 3130686

My battery choice was a Duralast Battery 31-950 Group Size 31 950 CCA. This battery has a couple hundred more CCAs than the stock battery, from what I gather. It also has a reserve capacity of 195 minutes, which seems to be about 30 minutes more than stock. It also has great reviews. It had threaded posts, which required me to use adapters.

My top area is a little messy, I know, but I don't think I'll find the time do a slicker fuse setup that some folks have here. Everything is rated properly and works.

During the install of the billets, one of the button bolt holes stripped. I'm pretty sure I was using modest torque, so I think the hole was imperfect. But no big deal, because the billets have tons of holes.

Another issue was that the negative billet didn't slide easily over the terminal. That's because my terminal was a little too wide though. I hadn't found the perfect threaded-post-to-standard-terminal adapter. So I gave the billet a few taps to get it on. It fits nicely there now, though my extreme lack of interest in stopping my install to go on a hunt for a narrower adapter that would likely be impossible to find in my area resulted in some aesthetic damage to the coating on the billet. That was my choice in the moment.

One remaining concern is that the height of the battery in the tray resulted in the front end of the top cover resting at least half an inch above the screw hole. To screw in that end, I had to push the cover down hard with one hand while tightening the factory screw. I worry I'm putting that screw under a lot of excess tension and possibly even pushing down harder on the battery than would be ideal.

This is the screw: https://partsouq.com/es/search/all?q=9011908974#9011908974-1. It's got a weird tip. I'd love to replace it with something longer, so that I can use a 1/4" spacer in my setup to reduce the tension in my setup. But after searching online, I couldn't find such a screw. If anyone can advise on how to procure a longer screw, please do.
I would recommend bending the forward arm of the battery tie down (cover as you call it) to take up some or all of the 1/2" gap.
 
Turns out the screw is an M8 with a just a narrower tip. That narrower tip mates with a narrower terminus at the bottom of the hole.

I replaced it with a standard M8 and a few fender washers, and everything seems right now.

(The only reason for the upper fender washer is that the screw was a little too long for the finite hole.)


20221003_213304[1].jpg
 
The visual you paint of hugging your hood is hilarious. Thanks for sharing. Nice install!
 
Turns out the screw is an M8 with a just a narrower tip. That narrower tip mates with a narrower terminus at the bottom of the hole.

I replaced it with a standard M8 and a few fender washers, and everything seems right now.

(The only reason for the upper fender washer is that the screw was a little too long for the finite hole.)


View attachment 3131187

Hardware store will have a shorter M8 bolt.
That’s really not a heavy load point, and doesn’t need anything fancy. The retention plate is just bent metal. Reduce the bends as needed with a rubber mallet on a flatt-ish surface or held in a vise…or on the edge of a work-bench…and…done. No need for all the extra hardware.
 
What is this product supposed to do? Why would you replace the stock battery tray?
 
View attachment 3131540

I would recommend installing fender washers (thick large diameter) on the bottom of the sheetmetal to spread the load of the bolts. A Group 31 battery is heavy.
I was going to say this exact same thing. Last thing you want is an 80 pound fire-starter bouncing around under the hood...
 
The instructions actually show to put the washers that are currently under the bolt heads below the body where people are recommending. I would say just get more but this makes me wonder if the bolt beads are pushing into the bottom of the battery..

They aren’t needed on top because the tray itself is much thicker steel than the thin vehicle body sheet metal.
 

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