Slee 4" with 37's and Bump Stop Extension Questions (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Threads
16
Messages
148
Location
Missoula, Montana
For all you guys running the Slee 4" and 37's. It looks like it takes about 4" of bump stop extension for this setup.

How much up travel do you have left after the 4" bump stop extension? It seems you would really loose up travel and your ride quality could suffer.

I am going to pull the trigger on the Slee 4" this summer, but tire size is in question. 35" no doubt is pretty standard for the lift according to Slee, but they are telling me that ride quality at normal driving speeds might be jolting with the bumps stops set to keep the 37"s from rubbing to much.


Any ride quality opinions would be appreciated. :popcorn:
 
I've got pseudo 37s (345s) with a slee 4'' and 4'' bumpstop extensions. No change in ride quality whatsoever. You might lose a small amount of up travel but that would only be noticable offroad. With lockers it not noticable at all. Still gotta do some minor mud flap/fender trimming but thats it. Do it.
 
BadReligion said:
I've got pseudo 37s (345s) with a slee 4'' and 4'' bumpstop extensions. No change in ride quality whatsoever. You might lose a small amount of up travel but that would only be noticable offroad. With lockers it not noticable at all. Still gotta do some minor mud flap/fender trimming but thats it. Do it.

Your the one who got me going on this direction. I really like the look of those tires and lift combo. So you don't hit the bump stops when loaded and driving rough roads? That's my main concern.

I called Slee yesterday, and that was there opinion, that the ride would be bad.

Thanks for your help :)

Sent from my Desire HD using IH8MUD
 
I believe Nay is running 37" tires with 4" lift.

Me, I'm running 35" tires (315's) with zero lift. I only get the occasional rub-kiss on the LF fender under compression--not when flexing, but when hitting a big enough bump at speed.

IMO, 4" lift, with 4" bumpstops = stock up travel. However, all lift springs are stiffer than stock springs, so you should be okay, except on really big hits.
 
Springs, lift height, doesn't really matter. Shock length (flex allowed), actual tire size (varies by brand), rim width/offset, etc, are much more important. I doubt that 4" spacers are needed, that would leave little up travel. With 37" tires there isn't much room for error, takes some adjusting/tuning to get the most out of the travel. What is "best" will likely be different/custom on each rig, setup, use.
 
im running js with 30mm spacer on front only no bumpstop extensions, with L shocks and 37s, had to trim out the front inner fender i rub a little on full flex on the inside top of the rear with 37s and my rims r bs to 4.25, had to pull rear bumper plastic and trim the fronts out ill post a pic later today at fulll flex so you can see
 
A 4'' spacer is slight overkill to run 37s, but no one makes a 3.25'' spacer which would be about perfect. Guess I could chop off a few 10ths from my existing spacers.

This is on stock wheels with a slightly trimmed inner fender/rear mud flap. Really no rub issues up front, still get a small amount of rub on the frame rail.

Again this is with 345s, which are 1/2'' shorter than true 37s so that extra 1/4'' of clearance does make a difference = less dremelling
 
Your the one who got me going on this direction. I really like the look of those tires and lift combo. So you don't hit the bump stops when loaded and driving rough roads? That's my main concern.

I called Slee yesterday, and that was there opinion, that the ride would be bad.

Thanks for your help :)

Sent from my Desire HD using IH8MUD

Haha...I can pass the blame onto "Wngrog." I saw some pics of his 345's on OEM wheels and was sold.

Do it...I think its the perfect combo of lift/tire (at least for my use). Slee thinks you need their 6'' lift to run 37s, thats why they say this setup wont work on a 4''. It will with some trimming and proper backspacing (oem wheels are perfect).
 
Haha...I can pass the blame onto "Wngrog." I saw some pics of his 345's on OEM wheels and was sold.

Do it...I think its the perfect combo of lift/tire (at least for my use). Slee thinks you need their 6'' lift to run 37s, thats why they say this setup wont work on a 4''. It will with some trimming and proper backspacing (oem wheels are perfect).

Yep, you are directly responsible for my problems!! LOL I probably will go with the lift and and set of 315 Duratracs, this summer. Run those for a winter tire, and then next year God willing, I will get the 345's and gearing. Crack Addict, I know :eek:
 
Just wait till you really start wheeln the truck the addiction gets even worse from there

Depending on cash flow I would skip the 315's and go to the 37's and regear down the line

When I went to 315's and wheeled the truck I was on 37's not to long after

I found that for where I am and what terrain I attempt to wheel that going from 35's to 37's was a big difference

Just my 2 cents
 
I'm running 37's with a j lift and 1" rubber spacer and 2" metal tech spacers in the front. No rubbing in the front, but rubs a bit in the rear (I only have 2" bumpstops) so I difinately need to go to a 3" or maybe 4". I also have NO TRIMMING AT ALL and wheel offset is the key. I'm running 17x8 with a 3.5" backspacing. I hope this helps.
 
I'm running 37's with a j lift and 1" rubber spacer and 2" metal tech spacers in the front. No rubbing in the front, but rubs a bit in the rear (I only have 2" bumpstops) so I difinately need to go to a 3" or maybe 4". I also have NO TRIMMING AT ALL and wheel offset is the key. I'm running 17x8 with a 3.5" backspacing. I hope this helps.

Thanks, that is the info I was looking for, what size tire? I am planning on 345 75 16's.
 
37 12 50 on 17 x 8 4.25 bs goodyear mtr2
 
kidglove13 said:
Just wait till you really start wheeln the truck the addiction gets even worse from there

Depending on cash flow I would skip the 315's and go to the 37's and regear down the line

When I went to 315's and wheeled the truck I was on 37's not to long after

I found that for where I am and what terrain I attempt to wheel that going from 35's to 37's was a big difference

Just my 2 cents

I can't tell from pics on other threads, but have you trimmed the fenders? By how much?

To anyone else, intend on 37s with 4" lift to maintain a low COG, but refuse to give up all uptravel, so planning on a fender trim, and trying to find a recent thread depicting.

May have to trim before the chance to cycle suspension presents itself.
 
shock mounts

I am running 3.5" of lift with 37x12.5 R17 mickey thompson MTZs. The tires measure out to 36.5 mounted up.

I have FJC 17" rims with 1.5" spacers. Front bumpstops are stock, rear are custom. Note: I have no fender flares, so I don't know how they affect tire clearance.

I run 5" up travel and 7" down on Fox eye-eye mount shocks with custom extended shock mounts front and rear.

In the rear, there are no problems fitting 37's, it is purely a matter of backspacing your rim selection carefully. My set up fully stuffs with no rub.

In the front, 37's will rub on most aftermarket bumpers (mine is custom and I had to whack some of it off when I moved up) and will rub on the back of the fender. I fixed the fender/wheel well rubbing with a few good whacks from a BFH. No rubbing now.

Tools said it best. Backspacing is the biggest factor. If you want to max out your up travel just do custom shock mounts. The front is much more limited by the radius arms than the wheel well clearance. My truck can probably only use about 8" of my total travel of the 12" shocks due to binding in the arms.

All in all, I think the 80 is the easiest/cheapest vehicle on the road to fit 37"s on. Without a sawzall that is. You do not need a 6" kit to do it. The slee guys serve the "stock" aftermarket. Guys that just want to pay someone to figure things out for them and have deep pockets, and can't figure out any "issues" that come up with their vehicles. They don't like to help out the customizers who like to tinker and build their own stuff.
 
I am running 3.5" of lift with 37x12.5 R17 mickey thompson MTZs. The tires measure out to 36.5 mounted up.

I have FJC 17" rims with 1.5" spacers. Front bumpstops are stock, rear are custom. Note: I have no fender flares, so I don't know how they affect tire clearance.

I run 5" up travel and 7" down on Fox eye-eye mount shocks with custom extended shock mounts front and rear.

In the rear, there are no problems fitting 37's, it is purely a matter of backspacing your rim selection carefully. My set up fully stuffs with no rub.

In the front, 37's will rub on most aftermarket bumpers (mine is custom and I had to whack some of it off when I moved up) and will rub on the back of the fender. I fixed the fender/wheel well rubbing with a few good whacks from a BFH. No rubbing now.

Tools said it best. Backspacing is the biggest factor. If you want to max out your up travel just do custom shock mounts. The front is much more limited by the radius arms than the wheel well clearance. My truck can probably only use about 8" of my total travel of the 12" shocks due to binding in the arms.

All in all, I think the 80 is the easiest/cheapest vehicle on the road to fit 37"s on. Without a sawzall that is. You do not need a 6" kit to do it. The slee guys serve the "stock" aftermarket. Guys that just want to pay someone to figure things out for them and have deep pockets, and can't figure out any "issues" that come up with their vehicles. They don't like to help out the customizers who like to tinker and build their own stuff.

sounds like a sweet rig, post some pics up! what gears are you running with that set up?
 
^^. I'm curious for more information, too.

If running FJCs with 1.5" spacer that's roughly a 3.25" BS, if I remember correctly. I've been talked out of going with 17" Trail Ready's of the 4" BS, but if 3.5" negates the need for trimming, or bump stop drops, I'd be all over.
 
Since going 37's and FJ's I am wanting to increase my current 1" spacer width to 1.25" or even 1.5". This is a great thread but I'm still in the air on which one. The current spacing works, I just want to increase the track width to the maximum without introducing new issues. Encouragement needed!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom