Simple LX470 Build/Refresh “CabinCruiser” (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 17, 2007
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Hello fine people of IH8MUD. This is a very impressive forum! The amount of help I have gleaned by searching here the last few weeks is amazing and has saved me literally thousands of dollars, so I’m going to be posting a bit of the simple LX470 improvements I have made over the last few weeks in the hopes it helps someone else, and ask a few more questions along the way. I am new to the 100 Series, but not new to Toyota 4x4s, this my 9th Toyota 4x4, and I’ve put well over half a million miles on a string of Tacomas (96, 01, 2013) and 4runners (4 different 3rd gens, and a 1984 1st Gen that I still own), I even had a 74 FJ40 for some ‘Mud street cred but that project went to my brother in law years ago.

This project had a specific purpose, our family has a house about 50 miles from us near Graeagle, CA and after my son was born we realized we needed something else to schlep the two of us, our two dogs, the kid and his future sibling and a load of baby gear up to the mountains. Hence the name “CabinCruiser”. My wife’s Outback is too small for the dogs, and my trucks leave my old heat sensitive Chesapeake Bay Retriever in the truck bed with the gear and diesel smoke. I got a shell and looked into adding an auxiliary AC unit to the Ram MegaCab bed for the dogs, but scrapped that project when I realized I would be in it 5k+. Obviously time for another SUV!

I considered several SUVs in my price range of 12-15k
4th Gen 4Runners, preferably an early Sport model with the V8
1st Gen Sequoias
2001-2005ish Suburban/Yukon 2500. The 3/4 tons are a rare breed and hold up pretty well from my experience with my wife’s old 2500HD with the 6.0 Vortec, but hard to find a clean one.
7.3 Diesel Excursions-Honestly my first choice since I have really liked my 7.3 F350, would have been an easy sell but never found the right one and prices are all over the place on these things.
And of course, the LC100. Always liked them.

6 months of casual Craigslist searching and this thing happens to show up while I’m drinking my coffee on a day off, 40 miles away.

First Photo at Home
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2001 LX470 with 181k for $8999, Private Party listing. I was there an hour after it was posted. Definitely a few more miles and a little more roughed up on the exterior than I was looking for, but the price was right for my area, it was the right color to match the “fleet”, and thanks to some ‘Mud searching on the drive down I sealed the deal based on my first hot tip from here.

Service Records from Lexus Online Lexus Service History | Lexus Drivers
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Fat stack from Carlsbad Toyota, every 5-10k from New through 132k miles. California car since new, not a spec of rust underneath. Car fax showed regular oil changes, and interestingly enough a stolen vehicle report from 2003 in Mexico, which matched the parking pass from a Rosarito time share on the front windshield. Clearly it was recovered and continued to be owned by the same people for the next 12 years, so I didn’t worry much about it. Left the sticker on the window for a cool story later. Can’t believe I’ve owned so many Toyota’s and never new about the Toyota and Lexus Owners service records.

I negotiated the price down based on a leaky CV boot, bad alignment, some vibration and it really didn’t ride like I thought a Lexus should. More on that later, obviously.
.......

First stop was the alignment shop. Here’s where I fail the MUD test. I take it in to my local shop for the alignment and to check out the CVs, suspension, brakes. A week later I get a phone call saying it needed two new CVs, rear brakes, and over 2500 dollars in work on the “air suspension”. I tell them to do the CVs and brakes while I research the suspension. I pick it up and it does drive straight with no vibrations, but of course, I have “the clunk” shifting from Reverse to Drive

Space held to post video

Shop states these are new CVs, not remans, and they get their parts from a NAPA supplier so I am guessing these are the Napa/Cardone shafts that are used with moderate success around here. I’m going to pull and inspect/probably replace the drive flanges and splines on the shafts. If that fails to fix the R to D clunk, I’ll probably pony up for new OEM CVs because it bothers me.

.......

Queue the AHC Freakout

$2500+?! No way. Gut reaction, yank it out for OMEs like some of my prior 4runners had. Gotta say guys, especially @PADDO and @uHu, you have done the community a great service with your contributions on this topic. I dove into this rabbit hole for a solid week. The shop I took it to said it needed new “shocks” as mine were leaking, which was the entire 2500 quote once parts from Lexus (400+ each) and labor was added in. No mention of anything else. Clearly they are not well versed with AHC, can’t blame them, these guys work on big rigs all day and service my work truck. A quick call to the local Toyota dealer led me to believe I wasn’t going to get much help there either (“you want what? Suspension pressures?”) . Might as well be asking for my blinker fluid to be checked and dump my wallet on the floor of the dealer. After days of MUD searching, I decided to throw ~500 bucks at the AHC, and see what happened. I got about 9 graduations on the AHC reservoir tank so I figured it was worth a shot.

The Cable:
Mini VCI cable (note:these items get pulled from Amazon all the time. Probably the bootleg software. There is at least 8 vendors selling the same cable at the time of writing)
Amazon product ASIN B083JSGJTZ
The Thread:
Throw the disc that comes with the cable in the trash. I never got it to work on my Windoze laptop.
Techstream in 5 Minutes had me up and running in, well, 10 minutes on an old MacBook Pro using Virtual Box
One note: You don’t need to download VirtualBox separate, just click the link, super easy.

The Stats:
Front Pressure Goal 6.9 mPa +/- .5 : Rear Pressure Goal 5.6-6.7 mPa

First Run
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Way off. I adjusted the ride heights to spec (19.75 Front and 20.5 rear from center of hub to fender). Then cross leveled (vehicle off, AHC in off, not sure of the AHC off matters though). I used a laser level on the hood but that was probably overkill. Took about 2 turns up on the passenger side and 2 turns looser on the drivers side to balance L to R, I would have figured the opposite due to wear from drivers weight, but oh well. After leveling, I tightened up the torsion bars equal turns on each side to bring the pressures in spec. I guess I didn’t snap a pic of that, but front pressure was 6.1 and rear was on the upper end of normal, so I went ahead and ordered new AHC rear springs from LexusPartsNow.com and AHC fluid from McGeorge Toyota. I bought 3 bottles from McGeorge, ended up reading that I needed 5 somewhere and ordered 2 more bottles from EBay for a few bucks less with free shipping. Using Paddo’s flush method, you only need 3. I’m actually not sure what method could use all 5 unless you’re just pouring it out for fun.

Part numbers visible for ya
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Wow. Are these the same part # springs, or were mine just that worn out? Big difference in height.
Changing the springs is a no joke 1 banana job. Took off the lower rear shock bolts and unhooked the sway bar, dropped the axle, and the springs almost fell out. Had to slightly push down on the axle to get the new (taller) springs in but I don’t even think the whole job took an hour from start to finish.

Final AHC Numbers

(On the next post, too many attachments)
 
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Final AHC Numbers
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6.3 mPa Front, 6.3 mPa rear. I can live with that. I changed the fluid using Paddo’s “One Can” method (They no longer sell the fluid in the 2.5 liter metal cans that I can tell, so it’s now the 3 plastic jug method). Very simple to do, drained the tank with a piece of fuel line and an old 60mL syringe and refilled with fresh. Bled it just like brakes, starting with the drivers rear, then passengers rear, accumulator, drivers front, and passengers front, dropping each down to the bump stops from the AHC Low position. Cleaned up, took it for a drive, and hats off to you guys, it drove like a different truck. I should have driven it in between the pressure adjustment and fluid flush to see what made the bigger difference, but the small bumps were no longer jarring, and it drove smooth and stable without wallowing front to back like some pogo stick like it did before. The drivers rear ram was definitely leaking before the changes, I wiped it clean and am keeping an eye on it and haven't seen any weeping yet. I also saw that all 4 of these rams were replaced at the Lexus dealer ~120k miles, so I'm not nearly convinced they are going bad again, if they were even bad at 120k. Springs looked to be original from 2001.

OK, back to some fun stuff after a few weeks of getting sidetracked. I originally thought I’d pull this into the shop on a Friday and pull out Monday with all the mods I wanted done. I had to skip a snow trip to do the AHC stuff so I was ready to go.

Who’s rig is this? I liked it so much I copied your wheels. Thanks for that.

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Method NV 18x8 +25 offset. Tires are 275/70/18 Goodyear Duratracs. I have 35k on a very abused set of Duratracs on my F350 and they are wearing great and have really really good snow traction compared to BFG ATs I have run in the past. Since this will see a ton of snow, I went for these even though I know they have some weaker sidewalls. There’s some good trails around Graeagle, but this won’t be wheeled hardcore, mostly driving up to mountain lakes and to trail heads. The wheels and tires clear everywhere no issues even on AHC Low after I took a heat gun to the plastic over the pinch weld and reformed it. It’s very close there, but no rubbing issues yet.

I did add the factory Lexus mud flaps after I dumped the factory running boards. These created a serious rubbing problem, they are very thick over that pinch weld area. I ended up using a hot knife and cutting that section of mud flap out, I’ll have to take a picture of what I mean by that sometime. Once they were trimmed, no problems, and they should keep the spray off my windows when driving in the snow.

Roof Rack. I really liked the Gamiviti expo-style rack like pictured above, but when it came down to it, I’ll be running a large cargo box, some ski/bike racks, and a set of maxtracks on the rack and that is pretty much it, so I went with a traditional crossbar setup. I got the Rhino Rack Vortex set from etrailer. There are some links for this floating around the forum that orders it piece by piece, that is what I did and ended up having to ship some stuff back that was extra and then separately purchase the vehicle specific fit kit that wasn’t mentioned. Save yourself the hassle, etrailer later told me that Rhino Rack sells a complete 2 or 3 bar set up.

Link is for the 3 silver bars. I don’t see the black bars on their site.
https://www.etrailer.com/multi-prod...25813&HHYear=2001&HHMake=Lexus&HHModel=LX+470

With the Rhino Rack and factory mud flaps (modified to clear the tires like described above).

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I also adjusted the front ride height again to slightly level the truck out since I had to go get it aligned again anyway. I know, I know, it rides better with a rake but it still rides very good to me. I added ~.5 inch of AHC lift in the front and re adjusted the torsion bars to keep the front pressure at 6.3 mPa


Into the shop, out of the shop
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More to come
 
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The stock Levinson speakers sounded like a wet fart when I got it. Gut reaction was, again, to rip it all out. Once again MUD to the rescue and some searching showed that I could bypass the factory amp and throw a double DIN unit in without too much trouble (I still might), it was worth a try to refoam the stock speakers with the Simply Speakers kit.

Simply Speakers repair kit link

Afternoon project
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Most of the glue came off easy. The sub had been replaced 3 times at the dealer according to the service records and this stuff was untouchable. I ended up using a wire wheel on a Dremel for this one.

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Don’t tell my wife where her ramekins went, they make perfect cone weights while the glue dries.

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I re assembled everything and let it dry overnight, and I must say, it sounds pretty good. Not great but for a factory sound system from 2001, its pretty good. I also oddly enjoy NOT having a gigantic screen blaring in my face while driving in the dark, the green glow is oddly cathartic. I may still change it to one of those Chinese android based double DIN units later or when the amp dies, but for now I like it.

AUX input though, that was a problem. I read all about tapping into the cassette deck but it seems like a lot of work. On a whim, I ordered a cheapo Bluetooth capable cigarette lighter FM transceiver like we all use to use in like 2003. They’ve come a long way since 2003, it sounds great. Took a few days to find a station that wasn’t interrupted on my drive but now it works good, sound quality is probably as good as the ML stereo can put out, and it automatically connects to my phone. Only thing it doesn’t too is auto play whatever was playing on my phone before. Whatever, I’ll take it for less than 20 bucks

Factory antenna was broken, based on the service records this was at minimum the 7th time it had been replaced, so as much as I would like to brag about the adjustable antenna mast, I ditched it for this mini flexible antenna from Amazon. I have no base to compare the reception to, but it works fine for me.
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Amazon link for antenna
Amazon product ASIN B07BB4KT2P
 
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Of course, gotta finish things up with the YotaMD Key...

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Off to the mountains. Where’s the snow this year? Nice not to shovel the driveway though.

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Dogs love it. The Chesapeake can ride with the AC on in the middle of winter while the rest of us have the heat on us. Rear AC will be a must for all future dog carrying vehicles.

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Final Thoughts:

I love this thing, it is by far my favorite 4x4 I have ever owned to drive. Drives smooth, solid, and confident. Visibility is amazing from the drivers seat, I’m not missing any of the technological aids of the newer vehicles when I can see all around me so easily. I bought it to go back and forth from the mountains, but I’m finding myself driving it to work almost every day. MPG isn’t that bad, 13.5 uncorrected so probably in the 14s with the larger tires, but given the entry price for this vehicle I can live with that. I will report back as I modify other things and tackle the CV/Drive flange issue.

Thank you all again for your immense knowledge that you shared with the community. You certainly helped this new guy.
 
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Good job.
 
Very nice break down of the suspension refresh.
 
Fantastic write up! Clarified a lot of AHC questions I had since I want to keep my working AHC on my 2000 LX. Did you use the Mini VCI J2534 cable for Techstream? (Link was broken)
 
Fantastic write up! Clarified a lot of AHC questions I had since I want to keep my working AHC on my 2000 LX. Did you use the Mini VCI J2534 cable for Techstream? (Link was broken)

Thanks! Looks like that item was pulled since yesterday too. eBay may end up being a better source for these since Amazon keeps booting them. Most of the vendors seem to be selling the exact same cable that looks like this.

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Quick update on the “CabinCruiser”. It’s been great. We take it up usually once or twice a month, fully loaded with now 2 kids, the 2 dogs in the back, and the largest roof box I could find to hold an entire weekends worth of stuff for all of us. It barely fits, I might need to run 2 boxes when the boys get older. Cruiser has 195k on it now and is going to need exhaust manifolds and a timing belt somewhat soon but has overall been reliable. I'm on the lookout for a cleaner low mileage '03+ LX, I wouldn't mind switching to a newer 5 speed cruiser, but prices have just been stupid lately. They seem to be dropping some with higher gas prices.

We got caught in a late season snowstorm last year, I couldn’t see anything with the wimpy stock lights at night in the storm and ended up off the road, so it was time for a few lighting upgrades.

6” Diode Dynamics selective yellow fog pattern beams, wired right in to the factory harness so controlled with the factory switch. I couldn't find my rivet nut setter, been rearraging the barn/shop, so I just drilled and pop rivited them into the factory crash support for now. I cut out the grills in a quite redneck fashion with a sawsall as this bumper is total trash with a bad flaking repaint and half the clips broken off, it will do for now. Definitely one of those "looks good from 10 feet away" things. I'll dedicate more time to trimming when I replace this bumper sometime.

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Also changed all the bulbs to LED. SNGL H3 in the fogs and Hikari H1 in the lows and Hikari 9005 for high beams. The LED H3 fogs made almost zero difference, may be less light than the stock halogens, I mostly ran those to reduce the electrical load since the 6" light bars are running off the same wiring. H1s were a modest increase in the low beams (I used the 80mm rubber boots to seal them into the housings, they fit great). The Hikari LED high beams are SUPER BRIGHT. I did the Pin 17 mod (thanks to TLCFAQ) so I could run them all at once, and I'm pretty happy for a relatively low budget setup. Aftermarket projector retrofit would obviously be better, but I don't have the time to dedicate to that right now.
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Every bulb lit
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My other off-highway excursion was hitting a patch of unexpected ice on a cold, otherwise clear road, hopping sideways across the oncoming lane on the verge of tipping, and ending up in the far ditch. Terrifying with the kids and dogs. Duratracs have been the best AT/MT I’ve ran in the snow, but for the price I just got some dedicated snow tires for winter. I ended up with 265/75/16 Toyo Observe studless winter tires due to availability. Not my first choice in size or tire but if they give me a little extra advantage with all the snow in the mountains so far this year, it will be worth the modest cost. They were 143 a tire on SimpleTire. Looking forward to trying them out this weekend.


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Resurrecting your thread. Thanks for the info on AHC. This is where I want my LX470 build to head. Clean and Simple. It's a 4th automobile for me, so I want to make sure I take time like you did.
 

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