Side cover gasket: wet or dry? Goo or no? (1 Viewer)

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Hi y'all, nothing in the FAQ and search on the subject, and no info in the 2F FSM that I can see. Where is the side cover install procedure? Mine is off, cleaned up, and ready to go back on. Someone said 39 in*lbs on the screws... Do I use any FIPG or sealer on the Toyota stock gasket (cork I think, by appearance). Do tell...

Cover cleaned, old gasket was really baked on there, had to scrape with a razor and scrub like hell with wire brush, then a couple purple cleaner baths. Got new PCV valve & grommet to use as well.

side1_zpslqjubhvh.jpg


Engine surface is easier to access if you pull all the other crap. Doing an oil change and Trollhole dissy install at the same time so it was a good time to do this as well... Got the mating surface on head pretty clean and accessible.
side2_zpscko58oum.jpg
 
I don't recall a gasket installation recommendation in the FSM.

I applied a thin coat of black Toyota FIPG to both sides of the gasket and tightened up all those tiny bolts by feel. Not too tight is the watchword here. Just a little snug. Mine doesn't leak.


If any of the bolt holes in the cover are mushroomed from overtightening, flatten them out with a hammer before installing.
 
Yeah already got the cover ready, it had never been off before. What is the torque spec? The 10mm bolts all have a "4" on them. I have a nice in*lb wrench to use. Just about to make a rum and Coke and put it back on. That cover was nasty and the old cork was baked on. All good now. All the dirty work is done for the evening. :cheers:
 
I couldn't find any reference to this in my FSM either(77). The Haynes manual references some stuff on removal, but nothing on installation. My OEM gasket is cork, so it certainly wouldn't take a large torque to seal it--more of a dribble of oil anyway, so I wouldn't expect any pressure in here. I had some minor leaks on mine around the #5 & 6 cylinders at the bottom. Found the bolts way loose, just snugged them up with a 6" ratchet with one hand--fixed.
 
On those little cover bolts, it's probably safer to tighten by hand/feel until you see the gasket and FIPG squish a bit. Use a driver with a socket instead of a ratchet wrench.
 
All right, going in dry. No sealant. Old school thought is the cork absorbs oil and swells a bit? Proper torque is a mystery it seems, but very low obviously. Can't really get a torque wrench in on the right (front) edge 3 screws because I only took out the 3 14mm alt mount screws and loosened up the rest to pull away the mount about an inch or so. That way you don't have to fight to get it in or out and can easily reach the screws. Good clearance for a 10mm box end, so i figure just lightly hand-tight ought to be right. I'll do it tomorrow, I just washed up and am chilling with a drink...

I tested a few things before I got started today and discovered I've been driving for 2 years with no secondary at all. The rod never moves and failed the paperclip test after some WOT pulling on the main drag by the 'hood. I have a TH carb, but plan to rebuild the Aisan myself. Just waiting on my rebuild kit.
 
Good choice. I never used to use FIPG in the past and everything always sealed up fine back then too. I guess I'm getting more paranoid.
 
Cork gaskets go on dry. They expand slightly once they begin to absorb some of the material they're sealing against and the result is an even tighter, more reliable seal. That's why you see rubber transmission pan gaskets leak more often than not but never see it from cork gaskets (which our Cruisers use). Putting any kind of RTV or extra sealer on a cork gasket will decrease its ability to seal and you'll end up with leaks over time.

Dry gasket, and proper torque on the bolts to avoid bowing the metal or overly compressing the gasket.
 
Dry cork. Hasn't leaked since I did it 4 years ago. I have no recollection of torque values and believe it was just done with a regular socket. Went back after a day and made sure things were still snug.
 
Roger that.
 

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