Should I be worried about rust buying a 200-series? (1 Viewer)

[jakemccurdy]

We're looking to get into our first LC and aiming at a lower cost higher mileage 200-series. Should I be worried about rust at all? I've seen a few from the northeast that are showing surface rust underneath. The car will live in AZ so I'm wondering if I should even care on a 2008-2009? Once rust starts, will it keep goin even though it lives in the desert or would my location inhibit future rust? Cars don't rust here, they just fall apart in the sun. Ours will be garaged however : ) Thanks for any insight you guys can provide!

 

[bloc]

Yes.

Hold out for one with little to no rust. Rust will only get worse, and living in a desert will slow it down but not stop it.

Even if things don't fall off of it, all the bolts and suspension adjusters can pose problems in the future that will lead to headaches for any exterior work.

 

[jakemccurdy]

Hold out for one with little to no rust. Rust will only get worse, and living in a desert will slow it down but not stop...

Thanks for the quick reply. Good to know. I'm clueless when it comes to rust and probably won't be able to fly out and inspect before purchase. Do you know if Rust is typical from northern cars on the 200-series? Would you avoid any 08-09 from the north?

 

[99Cruiser]

My 2008 was in CO area for 2 years when it was originally purchased and at the coast in Texas for a few years. The KDSS valves still opened this year when I added front spacers. My exhaust hanger is really rusty but everything else has no rust or a little amount of surface rust. None of the bolts were hard to remove for my shock install. I don't know if CO salts the roads. Just make sure the KDSS valves will open before purchasing but don't turn them more than 3 times.

 

[jakemccurdy]

My 2008 was in CO area for 2 years when it was originally purchased and at the coast in Texas for a few years. The KDSS valves still opened this year when I added front spacers. My exhaust hanger is really rusty but everything else has no rust or a little amount of surface rust. None of the bolts were hard to remove for my shock install. I don't know if CO salts the roads. Just make sure the KDSS valves will open before purchasing but don't turn them more than 3 times.

Awesome. That's easier than I thought. I assumed surface rust would be on any car above the mason dixon line and that knocks out a lot of trucks. The two we're looking at are at Toyota/Lexus dealers so I feel fairly okay buying without being there to inspect. Is that something I could get them to check easily for me and show me proof in video of? I'd be relying on the same for an undercarriage rust inspection.

I appreciate all the help.

 

[KLF]

Awesome. That's easier than I thought. I assumed surface rust would be on any car above the mason dixon line and that knocks out a lot of trucks. The two we're looking at are at Toyota/Lexus dealers so I feel fairly okay buying without being there to inspect. Is that something I could get them to check easily for me and show me proof in video of? I'd be relying on the same for an undercarriage rust inspection.

I appreciate all the help.

If they are committed to selling the truck, have them put it up on a lift and shoot a bunch of clear photos and send them to you. If they won't do this, move on.

 

[bloc]

I second the advice for pictures. Do NOT assume that any truck coming from a toyota or Lexus dealer won’t have rust. They offload used vehicles of varying quality just like any dealer, the only difference is they won’t let it sit around for more than a certain amount of time before it goes to auction.

There have been tons of posts to this section since I got here early 2018 looking for advice on rusted used vehicles. Do your homework and spend some time digging. Lots of good input and varying opinions.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

The two we're looking at are at Toyota/Lexus dealers so I feel fairly okay buying without being there to inspect.

You give dealers waaay too much credit. Please don't ever buy a car without looking at it first or having it inspected by a competent third party.

As for rust, I believe you will find some degree of chassis rust on any 200 from a northern climate (unless enthusiast-owned, but that's rare). Rusty-ness is a continuum, so you'll want to decide where on that continuum you feel comfortable.

I'd be totally okay with a little bit of surface rust, especially if it's localized mainly to the frame welds. Y'know, maybe 1-2% of surface area. Beyond that, I lose interest in dealing with rust pretty quick. If you don't do your own wrench-turning, your tolerance might be much higher.

I'm not aware of any major body rust issues like the 80 series had with the rear hatch, and I don't think the frames are as rust-prone as the old Tacomas and Sequoias. But the rear brake dust shields can be an expensive rust-related repair.

 

[jakemccurdy]

Great advice and appreciate the note on the dealers. It's just tough with so few in the market, it's got to look like a pretty done deal before I fly cross county to inspect. I'm looking at a GX460 2012 in Seattle right now. Can you recommend where find a reputable 3rd party inspector (in general)? I was thinking I'd have her take it to Toyota but if there are services who certify their independence that would be even better.

 

[Emcd]

Lots of LX570’s down in AZ. You should be able to find a rust free rig locally with ease.

 

[jakemccurdy]

Lots of LX570’s down in AZ. You should be able to find a rust free rig locally with ease.

Yeah, they’re nice but I rather have the range And look of the LC. Im coming from an mdx and sick of premium gas. My order of preference is 200, 460, 570. Of course Ive been sharing my wifes camry for almost a week already so I might take whatever drives up next. The LC is a bit of a stretch for us but Would be a 15-20 year car, especially if they stop making them in 2022 like the rumors say. If I get an Lx I’ll just have an old looking lx in 2022. If I get an LC I’ll have a classic either way. The gx is just cheaper and a stopgap so I could swallow the premium gas since it gets better mileage.

 

[Emcd]

I thought the same as you. I looked for a LC, all I found were rusted, beat or over priced. I found a low mileage LX rust free from NV. It was thousands less, quieter, more options, and just as capable. You can run regular w/o an issue.

 

[jakemccurdy]

I thought the same as you. I looked for a LC, all I found were rusted, beat or over priced. I found a low mileage LX rust free from NV. It was thousands less, quieter, more options, and just as capable. You can run regular w/o an issue.

Wait... what? You can run 87 in a 570? I thought they required 91. Does it effect mileage? What do you get in yours on 87?

 

[Emcd]

Lots of people do. I’ve run 87 for 2 years at elevation with no issues, pinging, lose of power. Honestly, the LX rides better than the LC. Unless you are going to hardcore wheel, the LX will do everything you need and then some. I to keep cars for 20 years on average. Test drive a LX.

 

[Emcd]

I get 12-17 mpg

 

[turbo8]

LX and LC have same engine and ecu with the same tune. The only reason that can come to mind why Lexus says it needs 91 is because it weighs a couple hundred pounds more.

The LX comes with AHC, which can be disabled and fitted with a standard suspension system.

 

[jakemccurdy]

LX and LC have same engine and ecu with the same tune. The only reason that can come to mind why Lexus says it needs 91 is because it weighs a couple hundred pounds more.

The LX comes with AHC, which can be disabled and fitted with a standard suspension system.

How many of you guys run 87? I thought it was retuned or something. I still prefer the look of the lc but the lx’s AHC has always been super appealing. Do you run 87 when you tow or under heavier loads?

 

[Emcd]

I’ve towed a trailer at 9-10k feet with no issues. 15k miles and 2 years.

 

[bloc]

Lots of people run 87, but many more stick with the factory recommendation. Anyone that says they have evidence of a different tune actually requiring premium doesn't. So far. The LX makes a whole 2 more hp, which is 0.5%. Not that some people won't debate this topic ad nauseum. (I'm probably in that camp, or at least continually asking for evidence of this different tune)

Basically, it's up to you.

AHC can be removed, but you will NOT gain the slick KDSS swaybars of a landcruiser, so you'll be somewhere in the middle. Honestly AHC is pretty awesome and most people don't have problems with them, or certainly WAYYY less than the 100-series crowd. But AHC comes attached to a LX with their IMO funny looks and larger wheels, etc.

If I were in a time crunch I'd be seriously considering LX570s, given how much more common and cheap they are. But, I wasn't, so I held out for my Landcruiser. And I love it.

 

[Docboy]

How many of you guys run 87? I thought it was retuned or something. I still prefer the look of the lc but the lx’s AHC has always been super appealing. Do you run 87 when you tow or under heavier loads?

I run 87 on my LX. No ping, no issues. Engine in the LX is retuned for meager 2 additional HP, not worth it in my books.