Should I be wary? (1 Viewer)

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Looking at buying an 87 FJ60, 128k with rebuilt motor in 02. Some frame rust, and some "wet spots" in the driveline (bad seals?) are making me a little wary.

This thing won't be a daily driver, at least not now, so it doesn't have to be perfect. I just don't want to buy $2k of repairs...I had to have a friend take the pics, so I haven't seen it first hand.

Just hoping someone might offer a quick opinion.
Thanks,
Wulf
leak4.JPG
rust4.jpg
 
Bad rot!!!
 
that rust worries me and i wouldn't touch it, but we're all spoiled here in california.

if it's really cheap, go for it. if not, find something else from a non rusting area of the country.
 
Christ!! where is that thing at?? I thought we had rot here in Nebraska. My 60's frame looks mint next to that one.

Dont worry about the driveline, worry about the frame becoming 2 separate pieces!

I would pass, and I have owned some rusty-ass trucks.

Hodag
 
Body rot (not structural) can be repaired over time, that type of rust on the frame is pretty much a frame replacement down the road. I'd step away slowly, turn around, then RUN away from it.
 
Did you ever watch Chris Rock and when he found out his friend was lost on M.L.K. Blvd.. Chris Rock said " RUnnnnnnnnn " Get out of there quick.
 
Re: Price?

$3k, OBO. It's been for sale for many weeks, and they claim they're anxious to sell. I had one with worse rust in the rear end (if you can believe that), and it was "fine". This won't be a primary driver - just to have around for the next several years until I move back west to Colorado.

Thanks.
 
Cruisers tend to leak a bit. Lots of places on the engine. If it's just a little, no worries, just keep it full. Tranny, transfer case, diffs, axles, when these leak you need to fix it. Rust is bad though. Check compression. Factory is 165 new, 115 (approx) low end. No more than 15 psi diff between cylinders. Check condition of front axle, esp the gear oil in the diff, the grease in the knuckles. If the inner axle seals fail, it's timeconsuming to fix (eg expensive to pay somebody). Rust is bad...opps, repeating myself...Find out why the engine was rebuilt - did it overheat - of so, make sure the cooling system is up to snuff. Good rad, waterpump, fan clutch. Oh, one more thing, rust is bad...
 
For 3K you can come buy a rust free one here in CA thats in decent condition.

They are asking too much considering the condition of the frame which is major pain down the road.
 
That rust in the pic would me a little sketcy for sure!
 
frame rust is scary and it only went 128k before a rebuild, I think that says poor maintenance
 
I'd be weary.
 
It's really very hard to assess the seriousness of the rust on that frame from the picture. The frame will look really ugly well before it's actually compromised. It may well be sound enough to last you the several years that you need. But you need to get uder there with some tools to really probe it to discover whether it's sound or not.

On the other hand, if it is sound, I still wouldn't pay more than $1800 and I do all my own work on my 62. If there's a lot of rust under there, you better check the brake and fuel lines, the xfer case vacuum lines, the tranny cooler lines, the rear heater tubes, etc. etc.

Bill
 
Offer him $ 500 and do some "sweet jumps" as Napoleon Dynamite would've done!

Otherwise, get something w/o rust. $3K is nuts too, by the way. I just bought this nice blue one for $ 2500 if that tells you anything...........
FJ Denver.jpg
 
runnnn that looks really bad, I thought mine was bad as well, buyt good grief!!!
 

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