should have listened to you guys (1 Viewer)

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Big Man,
Like I said tonight, just keep the 80 pads. Bring you truck over here over the weekend (sat is better) and we'll take another look at your issue (well the brakes anyway!).

Cdan - saw Big Man tonight as he was
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(he would be the guy falling down). Don't be surprised if he calls you tomorrow to order some parts.
 
>> so you get longer life <<

A lot longer life.

-B-
 
[quote author=Junk link=board=2;threadid=9800;start=msg86554#msg86554 date=1073532270]
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Umm , I extracted all the frames in Junks new .gif , and it would seem he and Big Man are .. smooching !! :-* :-* :-* :flipoff2:
 
[quote author=landtank link=board=2;threadid=9800;start=msg86508#msg86508 date=1073527984]
Slightly larger pad surface. Better braking with less force so you get longer life.
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I believe you'll get longer life but not better braking. Braking force is determined by the area of the piston and not the area of the pad.
 
I just hate to trash pads that only have 5,000 miles on them. BUt this time i'm going to do what you guys suggest. :D

I might just drive it for another 10,000 miles with it dancing to the stoplight :flipoff2: :cheers:. At least then i'll get my $50 worth of pads.

Could someone post the torque specs for the rotor? Perty please! :D
 
Torque specs for the rotor to the hub is 54 ftlbs, torque specs for the caliper to the knuckle is 90 ftlb. The friction material in the 97 80 series pad and the 100 series pad is almost the same(jsut a guess as the perform silimar). The pervious years are softer material and will wear faster. some time the later pads will have squeeling, but will have better braking, longer life. down side is shorter rotor life. That said I have been useing 100 series pads for over 100k miles with the orginal rotors (wating for DBA cross drilled and sloted). No warping no detremental wear on rotors. Far better braking then the 94 pads. almost 50k miles per set of wear, but I do alot of highway driving. I have rebuilt my calipers 2 in the time I have owned the truck. My wifes truck with the 100 series pads and DBA stops much better then my truck. Later robbie
 
Thanks robbie, i think i'm going to get the DBA rotors too. I really don't think that mud and road debris getting into the slots and holes will affect them as other's have stated. Thanks for the torque specs.
 
Hoser,

Braking force could be improved by changing stock rubber brake lines to stainless steel ones.
What Rick was saying is different - but true.

Frank
 
Brake force will not be improved by changing your brake lines. However, brake FEEL will be better. And in turn you should be able control your vehicle better. Sorry to nitpick.
 
Don't know how you define FEEL but the applied initial force with the steel lines is much better when comparing to the stock rubber ones (expansion of the rubber hose).

Frank.
 
Rick,

Today would be a good day to test it since you are doing a tire swap. Combined labor operation you know. ;)
 
TIRES are ON!. 7deg outside :eek:. I'll leave the verification of that paper to someone else ;).

I did notice that small section of pad that is below the rotor surface. You ground that off didn't you? Is it something I need to do?
 
I think people sometimes draw the wrong conclusions when they change their brake lines to SS ones. Changing your fluid and bleeding your brakes has more effect on brake feel than anything else. You can't change lines w/o bleeding the brakes. I do run SS lines on 2 of my cars but I haven't noticed a difference. Of course, ANY new brake line (SS or rubber) will be better than ones that are 7-11 years old.

I will warn against using SS lines as many of them are of shoddy quality. There are now a few DOT approved ones. Make sure you look for that. But OEM ones are already proven to be high quality.

Furthermore, SS lines have been known to fail when dirt gets between the outer braid and the Teflon lining. As the braid moves back and forth, the dirt abrades the Teflon and can make it rupture. If you look at SSl lines on motorcycles, you'll see that many of them are encased in plastic tubing, apperently in an effort to eliminate this problem.
 
[quote author=landtank link=board=2;threadid=9800;start=msg87063#msg87063 date=1073600502]

I did notice that small section of pad that is below the rotor surface. You ground that off didn't you? Is it something I need to do?
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Yes, thats it. I think it is a good idea to get rid of it. It isn't a very big chunk but I would rather not have it break off and get stuck in something. It takes all of a minute at the bench grinder.

D-
 
Agree with Hoser. Putting larger pads on will not de facto improve anything except pad life, and that's simply because there's more material there. It may reduce braking ability, slow initial brake response, overheat the rotors, disturb the F/R braking balance, etc. Nobody knows. Those that have done the mod praise it, but I suspect this is simply because they've put new pads on and things feel better. The stock pad size was carefully chosen with a lot of research and testing behind it and to believe that randomly choosing a different pad size will improve things is to believe in fairies.

DougM
 
interesting point on the braking power of stainless vs. rubber. I mentioned that my truck tends to pull to the right when braking now. Guess what, that is the only line that is still rubber due to me stripping one of the brass nuts for that line. I replaced the other two, but of coarse one has to be a biatch!
 

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