shock install (1 Viewer)

[DMX84]

Spressomon, so is sounds like you can take the t-bar off with the forward bracket still attached? Then I would try and pound it off with a brass punch with the t-bar firmly clamped in a vise.
I can’t remember if the t-bar can be removed with the bracket still on. I’m thinking it can.

 

[spressomon]

The t-bar cannot be removed, as I understand, until the forward t-bar bracket has been removed from the t-bar. I could not see another way around it...considering the rearward t-bar bracket (tensioner side) is encapsilated by the frame crossmember.

 

[DMX84]

Yes, you are correct. Some reason I was thinking you were able to get that off. Then it’s a matter of finesse to get it to slide out. But now its not looking so good.
Try this, undo the front and let it hang down. Take the bolt completely out on the adjuster end, now smack the t-bar with a brass punch to slide it off the adjuster, IIRC it’s open ended. So it can slide either way.

 

[spressomon]

The shop ended up applying heat/liquid/heat/liquid/heat/liquid and finally after they wrestled with it for several hours got the t-bars off.

Can't wait to feel the difference.

 

[DMX84]

Now, that wasn’t so bad!

All right! Too bad you couldn’t have done this your self, but from the trouble that the mechanics had, probably for the best.
I used tons of anti -seize to prevent what happened to you.
When you get it back, look at the adjuster and see what position it’s at. You may want to re-clock your new t-bars to get the lift that you need and or get the adjuster in the proper position. I put mine on the same as stock and ended up not having enough adjustment left. IMO, I think the adjuster should be just tucked out of the way, (inside the housing for protection) but allowing maximum adjustment. At first mine ended up using most of the adjusting bolt, and was sucked way up in there = BUTTCO.
So if you need to tweak it a bit, you may as well put some anti-seize or at least some grease.
With everything being new this will be a piece of cake. I ended up doing mine the next day.
I’m pretty picky, so this probably is over-kill for some people.

 

[spressomon]

I had the shop (had a great mechanic btw) raise the front exactly 2" as recommended by Slee and others on board; as well as centering the adjustment/tension bolt in the middle of it's range. After he got the t-bars apart he thoroughly cleaned all parts, including the OEM t-bars (just in case I ever need them....are you reading this Hoser?) and coated all parts with Amzoil syn grease.

Love the handling...can't wait to wheel it off-road this weekend!

 

[Socal Cruiser]

Hello, long time lurker here, finally got a 99 LC to turn into a expedition rig. New to 4x4 and a novice mechanic at best; that being said, my first mods will be to install total chaos upper control arms and King F/R. I would like to do the install myself (so i know how to fix things when things break down). I have seen the thread by jukelemon and the diificulty rating with it in FAQ. How much harder would this be and I assume I can still fallow those instructions minus the torsion bar & diff drop portions. If there are any other instructionl guides/vids to look at to give me an idea please let me know. let the flaming begin.

TYA

 

[lexi4darin]

I used a 5 ton jack to the wheels up high enough to get stands under the frame in one lift.

Really, 5 tons? I have a 3 ton and wouldn't expect a problem. But I've only used it for light lifting where the tires stay on the ground.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Socal - search for a thread on the rear shocks, it involves drilling a hole in the cargo bed, but makes access to the top nut very easy. Everything else is straightforward.

lexi - you're responding to a 5 year old post.