Shock absorber hose removal (solved) (1 Viewer)

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Apr 20, 2016
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Natchez
Greetings,

6 months ago, my passenger side rear shock absorber hose started leaking due to rust. I was able to replace the line and get the AHC to work as usual. Then, the driver's side burst as well, and now I can't get the last 12mm bolt out. There is less clearance on the driver side than on the passenger side. Needless to say, the 12mm wrench skips, anything smaller will not fit, and the bolt extractor I had used on the passenger side bolts can't grip due to no clearance.

My internet searches have yielded no satisfactory results. So, I am counting on your expertise. Has anyone dealt with this issue? What tools would you recommend?
 
Maybe a 12mm swivel head ratcheting flare nut wrench?
 
Ooh once you rounded off that 12mm bolt on that side you're in trouble, might have to bore a hole from inside the rear cabin and go at it from on top. Many people freak out about this but there are tons of holes in the tub, what's another one?
 
Thanks for the reply, gentlemen. Still, no solution, and all tools have failed. By all tools, I mean the bolt extractor. The big problem, as everyone knows, is the clearance. A friend mechanic suggested lifting the body off of the frame. I think if I undo the nuts on the side, I am working on, I can lift it just enough to have sufficient room to work with.
 
Bore a hole in the sub floor man, easiest way.

 
Bore a hole in the sub floor man, easiest way.

Thanks. The problem is I don't know where exactly. Have you done it before? How did you proceed?
 
Thanks. The problem is I don't know where exactly. Have you done it before? How did you proceed?


read through that thread i linked you, it tells you where to mark it and drill, then you'll have plenty of clearance to put a good stud removal socket on it and get it out.
 
read through that thread i linked you, it tells you where to mark it and drill, then you'll have plenty of clearance to put a good stud removal socket on it and get it out.
Thank you, FxFormat. I got. I'll go that route.
 
My solution was going through the floor of the car body. From there, I could see and touch the bolt. I used a porcelain hole saw drill bit (that I used on a bathroom project) to cut through the steel and a bolt extractor to remove the bolt. Put everything back together, plugged the hole with a .99 cent plumbing plug, added some ahc fluid, and voila! The car is running again like new!

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