SHIM, BIB HINGE. what is everyone replacing this with? (1 Viewer)

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The fire hose material rectangle with 2 holes in it. I've found the parts for the radiator support with one hole in them.
Looking for a replacement that close to stock. I could cut rubber but Im afraid that will trap moisture.
I think its part number
53154-60010

I'm curious about this too - I used a piece of radiator hose that I bored a couple holes in but my shim was MIA - so I have no idea if the hose is the appropriate thickness, etc.
 
If you want a cheap alternative..... conveyor belt material

Has anyone successfully sourced canvas material for the replacement of the hinge pad?

I had to take a grinder through mine...looking for a replacement.

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PURIST ALERT
Don't bother reading this if you qualify:

Since the final result is barely visible even when looking for it, about 3/16" conveyor belt stock is perfect. Cut right, it's cleaner looking than the factory version. It's cheap. It's functional. Oh, and works like a charm. What more could you want? (Other than an original part.)
 
OEM shim is discontinued :(
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But I wonder if you can try to use the battery shims (you need to make new holes). It’s a question if it is wide enough for two bolts.
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The battery shims are available from Toyota (90950–04010). For example here:
 
Last edited:
PURIST ALERT
Don't bother reading this if you qualify:

Since the final result is barely visible even when looking for it, about 3/16" conveyor belt stock is perfect. Cut right, it's cleaner looking than the factory version. It's cheap. It's functional. Oh, and works like a charm. What more could you want? (Other than an original part.)

It just so happens that I have some conveyor belt sitting in my shop. Thanks for the tip!
 
Made mine from 2/0 (32 oz) canvas, 2 layers thick (about 1/8“ or 3mm) coated with LPS 3 anti-corrosion spray. JP @ClemsonCruiser gave me the heads up on this.
 
UHMW - doesn't absorb water, stable, cuts easily, and in black, you'll never notice it once it's in place.
 
I emphatically agree with @reddingcruiser.

The deepest pits on my frame were located under that hygroscopic woven spacer supporting the hinge.

Given all the spot welds, thin or lacking paint, lack of seam sealer, and total rustout of all the cavities included in the basic design, I assume corrosion resistance was not a primary design feature for FJ40's.

It might be fine for those of you in arid Arizona or parts of Southern California, but not for Massachusetts.

I used use a 1/4" of high durometer neoprene to eliminate at least one main rust vector. :)
 
I agree on the rubber shims. I cut mine out of 3/16', punched the holes with my cheap HF hole cutter set and they fit perfectly. I think rubber will not aborb moisture or hold it in contact with the frame. I could be wrong but the cotton weave looks like a rusty pad when I removed them from my Arizona '77. I went ahead and replaced all the body contact pads with the same rubber material during the frame off.
 
I'm replacing this shim this weekend. The material I used when I put the rig back together failed miserably. Per @73FJ40 post above I ordered some 1/4" Neoprene rubber and this seems to be the way to go. My questions is how much of the front end do I need to take apart. Seems like I should only have to remove the 3 bolts on each fender and 3 bolts on each apron?
 

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