She just leaks

[warrior_1515]

Ok, my F135 is leaking oil. '65FJ45 to be precise. It would be more productive for me to just pour the oil right on the ground. So here is what I imagine needs to be replaced.

1. Rear main seal
2. Oil pan gasket
3. Side gasket
4. Valve cover gasket
5. Drain plug

What else am I missing? I don't mind doing everything. My wagon did sit for a while and I am guessing that is why I am writing.

Please chime in with words of advice.

Dave

 

[TEQ]

I'm with you man. But I have trannie fluid, tcase oil, diff oil (f and r), and brake fluid on my garage floor too.

FWIW, Once I got my flywheel cover off I think it was clear that I was NOT leaking from the rear main seal. Someone in another thread I read said that if your flywheel does not have oil streaks radiating out from the center then your rear seal is not leaking (badly). In my case my flywheel was completely dry with only a slight trace of streaking, so I'm thinking i'm ok there. I'd love to hear what you find.

 

[IDave]

My 9/64 F135 leaked badly when I first got it because the oil filler tube was loose at the base.

I think it will be time well spent to try to figure out where the leaks are coming from. You may not want or need to fix all of those at once. Clean it up and see if you can figure out who the bad guy(s) is/are.

 

[Poser]

I agree with IDave.


Oil leaking from one area can be blown all over the place, making a small leak, look as if every gasket and seal on the engine are leaking. Typically, a rocker cover gasket leak along the front or rear of the engine can create quite the mess, as can a front cover/main seal leak.


As IDave stated, clean the engine and oil mess up best you can, and try and locate the leak.....or you can order a bunch of gaskets and install them all...and hopefully get the leaks with a shotgun approach.....and then pull your remaining hair out when it continues to leak...


Good luck!


-Steve

 

[Jerry D.]

You might also check the oil pan itself. It will develope leaks between the pan and welded on skid plate.

Jerry D.

 

[Quazii]

.....and then pull your remaining hair out when it continues to leak...


Good luck!


-Steve

Amen

Once you clean it as IDave said you have threaded inserts at the oil hoses (oil hoses themseves) and sending unit.

Chris

 

[Ian Rogers]

you need to glue the valve covers on to the 135F that's the main sorce of my leaks with the 135f, oh and the slits in the valve cover. but the valve covers on these motors leak.

 

[warrior_1515]

Thanks guys for all the great info. Much appreciated. In fact you have already saved me a bunch of time. Probably would have just jumped in with both feet.

Here is what I have. Pulled the fly wheel cover off and cleaned tha up. Started the wagon up and waited for the fun to begin. I have a pic and a drip is starting to develop that I have circled in red.

Is this the rear main seal or still to difficult to pin point.

Thanks,

Dave

 

[65swb45]

Oil migrates DOWN and BACK, so trace it up to the highest, furthest forward point that gets oil to it and go from there.

Nobody mentioned the front timing cover, seal or cover plate. I've seen plenty of them leak too.

Hth

Mark A.

 

[greenfox]

You might also want to check around the fuel pump.

 

[Cruiseralive]

My steel rocker cover was torqued down too much, oil just gushed out the sides. Im sure it can be made not to leak but another option is the later aluminum part which is stiffer.

Eric

 

[Chef]

You can get dye for your oil, and then find the leak with a black light. Fun!
Another spot can be the bottom two thru bolts in the timing cover, they need thread sealant.

 

[PabloCruise]

Oil migrates DOWN and BACK, so trace it up to the highest, furthest forward point that gets oil to it and go from there.

Nobody mentioned the front timing cover, seal or cover plate. I've seen plenty of them leak too.

Hth

Mark A.

x2

If you think your oil plug is bad, someone may have distorted your pan in the past - may check on getting a new pan...

 

[mdonivan]

Here is an option for you that might reduce the number of gaskets you need to replace and save a little time. As stated, sitting dries out your gaskets big time. One of my vehicles sat for over a year (busted drive shaft) and when repaired I changed the oil and all the good owner things. It leaked like a freaking sieve. I used an off the shelf gasket conditioner oil additive and most of my leaks stopped. I still need to replace the valve cover gaskets, I guess they were too far gone, but it worked on the rest. If anyone has had any negative experiences with this, please chime in, I am almost always.....almost that is....open to criticism.

 

[fjwagon]

I agree in replacing the gaskets but like IDave mentioned, make sure you know where the leak is coming from. Take it to the car wash and wash the areas where it's leaking. Mine is leaking at the timing cover.

 

[wesintl]

my F 135 leaks out of every orfice. The worst was the side cover and the rear corners on the pan. I'm not looking forward to pulling the f crank seal. how does one get that off easily?

Dave since you brought it up, or anyone else, how did you seal the oil filler tube at the block. I *really* need to do that seal as I get alot of oil leaking from there.

Thanks

 

[G_Stratton]

You might also want to check around the fuel pump.

x2

This is where mine was leaking.

 

[IDave]

Dave since you brought it up, or anyone else, how did you seal the oil filler tube at the block. I *really* need to do that seal as I get alot of oil leaking from there.

Thanks

I pulled the tube, rounded it up as much as possible after cleaning it up, then put on a thin coat of 3M The Right Stuff and hammered it back down.

(TRS works real well on the side cover also!)

 

[fjwagon]

But if it's in really bad shape after removal.....you can still order them new at the dealer.

 

[Chef]

Front crank seal: I don't think there is an easy way for that. It'd be nice if all you had to do was pull the balancer, then pull the seal, but, IIRC, you then have to pull the timing cover as it comes out the back.