She is fighting me!!!! (1 Viewer)

[leonard_nemoy]

Hammering the flange is not the way to go IMO

Once the flange is deformed, cone washers don't seat properly, flange doesn't matter with the hub properly, clamping force on the studs/flange is unpredictable, studs are tweaked.

Next time around, you have to wail on it harder, and so there cycle continues.

I've had able flanges that had to be filled flat on the hub matting face, and cone washer holes dressed up carefully with a countersink bit too remove a big burr caused from being beaten.

New hardware for the hubs is cheap. With while replacing it on a new to you truck if the existing stuff is not tip top

I agree, I kind of circled the wrong part in blue. When I have done them I have always hammered on the hub behind the flange. The area behind my blue circle.

 

[gummycarbs]

View attachment 3107105
According to the instructions, you should beat the everliving sh!t out of the flange where marked in red with a brass bar and BFH.
And it worked for me, but it was a battle and a half.

I might have a solution for the deformed cones. How soon till you put it back together?

Not according to the '94 FSM:

I've always used a large brass drift with a steel engineer's hammer. The drift is probably around 3/4" in diameter. I remove the nuts first. Usually, the cone washers come flying right off.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Yup. On the front hubs for sure.
But the OP is fighting the rear according to the pics.
Here's the '96 manual instructions for removing the cone washers on the rear.

 

[gummycarbs]

Yup. On the front hubs for sure.

I added the rear hub from the '94 FSM to show that it's the same. No idea why they would change it, and certainly not if they were still telling you to hit the studs up front.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Manuals (or operator instructions) and techniques change fairly regularly as we learn what does and doesn't work, especially over time and wear. Not surprising really. I had to go back and look at my manual, thought I had misinterpreted the drawing...LOL. You won the "made you look!" game today.

 

[gummycarbs]

I looked at the 97 FSM to compare and noticed that for the front, they tell you to *loosen* the mounting nuts, but not to remove them. Meanwhile, for the rear, they tell you to *remove* the nuts and washers before smacking the middle.

The only conclusion I can draw is that they wanted to ruin your day by sending all six cone washers flying at once when you do the rears.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

I looked at the 97 FSM to compare and noticed that for the front, they tell you to *loosen* the mounting nuts, but not to remove them. Meanwhile, for the rear, they tell you to *remove* the nuts and washers before smacking the middle.

The only conclusion I can draw is that they wanted to ruin your day by sending all six cone washers flying at once when you do the rears.

View attachment 3107589
View attachment 3107590

In the front they are instructing you to hit the actual studs. So in this case you want to loosen the nuts but keep them on the studs to protect the threads.