Share with me a common disaster?

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Jul 19, 2007
Washington State
Looking for a little advice on my resto/paint job:[/URL]


I've fixed your link above.

And I'd like to offer advice but I don't know where to start.

The best paint jobs clean metal down to "bare", patch rust holes, neutralise any other rust, get right into seams and hidden areas, use a top quality primer etc.

But I suggest you just start with little bits till you gain confidence and skills.

Good luck, and above all, .... have fun and enjoy the learning curve...

I would like to congratulate you for having a go. The worst thing that can happen is that you have to rub it back and do the final coat again.
Im not much of spray painter either,maybe you could get some books from the library or bookstore.
You need to choose your paint 1st,most shops here use a 2 pack on landcruisers.

Is your rust surface rust only ,or does it have holes?
Where do you teach? If it is high school do they have a body shop? If not then do you know any high school teachers who might work at a school that does?

You need to remove all emblems to remove the rust totally. You need to post more pics of the areas of concern.

You need a small 90 degree die grinder (harbor freight is your friend in the USA). An assortment of abrasive discs for the rust removal. Then proper cleaners and metal etchers to ensure total removal of rust. Then epoxy primer, sealer then color coat. Go single stage, good way to learn how to spray. Just go to an autobody paint shop and show them and tell them you want to do it yourself. They will assist you, if not go to another place.

Now there are other ways to do this. If you remove all the rust you can also roll it on! Yes I said roll it on. You will use a marine paint made by Interlux, it is called Perfection.
If you go see the marine parts store they will set you up with what you need and the proper instructions. Believe me if you follow the instructions and take your time it will look as good as a spray job and be just as durable if not better.

The key element is totally removing the rust, getting the surface clean and following the instructions.

Best of luck, remember it is not that hard and you can do it!

Diesel forum peops are superior!

Thanks for your support! I got organized and gave it a very good wash today. Posted a couple of pics in the paint and body forum. Tomorrow the lights and emblems and stuff come off. I'm not sure if I want to take the whole thing to bare metal. Time is the biggest issue. I'm thinking of taking the rust spots (there are a couple of small rust through spots) down to bare metal and finding somebody to weld in patches for me. I've seen guys on Youtube use rivets or even metal screen to patch holes. I dunno. One is smaller than a dime, and I'm not sure if I even need to weld in for that...? Then scuff up the rest, primer the whole thing and paint it. I painted a horse trailer two summers ago. The second side turned out great. The first side provided some evidence of my learning.

My high school doesn't have a body shop, but there is one in the district, however, once school starts back up, my time is GONE, so I'd like to get this done ASAP.
You can patch holes by using structural adhesive, not necessary to weld! Do not use rivets or screws, it leaves holes where water can get in and it will rust again in a few years.

Do not take the whole truck down to bare metal, only the areas with rust.

I strongly suggest you look at the marine paint I mentioned, google it and check out the videos. They make some beautiful whites, Oyster White is a beautiful shade. You will see they say to "tip" the paint after you roll it. This is not necessary with the whites.

I just painted an aircraft at my college in June with this paint, people still don't believe it was rolled!

Just putting the idea out to ya,
Once again, best of luck

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Thanks! I'll look into the marine paint. I kind of wanted to match the original color, but I suppose it's not that important if I mess the spray job up on it. I have thought about the panel adhesive, but I couldn't think of how I'd clamp it down while it cured. Don't you have to clamp it for a while? And the biggest rust hole is right in the middle of my rear quarter panel.
It will usually hold with the adhesive alone. If not use rare earth magnets, as the patch will be applied on the inside of the panel and you place the magnets on the outside of the panel holding the patch in position till it cures. You then fill the void outside on the panel surface and sand flush.

The quarter panel can be accessed from the inside by removing the cargo area side wall.

I updated photos and questions to the paint and body section (link above). But I keep posting here too, because, let's admit it, the folks in the diesel section know a lot of stuff and are really helpful.:cheers:
I've gotten back into (low) gear lately and have updated my HJ60 project, complete with a whole bunch more rookie questions. The link is above if you're interested. Thanks!

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