shackle reversal

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bushwalker

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jul 28, 2007
Threads
8
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26
Location
warragul victoria australia
i have got a hzj75 and want to do a shackle reversal to chase better articulation out of the front end i run 2in lifted springs and don't want too much more lift an inch up would be ok though as i am considering going to 37's just better articulation any tips pics would be great
 
Last edited:
bushwalker said:
i have got a hzj75 and want to do a shackle reversal to chase better articulation out of the front end i run 2in lifted springs and don't want too much more lift an inch up would be ok though as i am considering going to 37's just better articulation any tips pics would be great
Click to expand...

How many leaves do you have in the packs now? It might be better to have 1or 2 leafs removed and have the reset into a higher arch.
Of course if you need it for work monday morning for carrying bags of cement ,you wont be impressed:D
 
okay, my view of shackel reversal:
this does not increase articulation at all
this can do damage to the t/case front output since the driveshaft now moves shorter reather than longer during compression while articulating
it does provide a smoother ride
i want you to think this one through...when climbing an obstacle you want traction from "new" terrain. if the axle moves backwards during articulation it is actually being forced to put the tires over already covered (muddy) bank or slippery log. the shackel forward design forces the tire ahead another inch and a bit covering new ground.
i have not been overly impressed with the results other than the ride
 
bushwalker said:
i have only got five leafs up front six at the rear i'm just chasing better articulation ah
Click to expand...

By taking a leaf out and arching the spring more ,it gives lift and articulation.
You would need to consult an experienced spring maker.
Have a look at some of the comp rigs with leaf springs

Or otherwise a SOA might be in order. You cant get much more than 3-4 inches practical lift from a SUA

I never used the folding shackles but some reckon their ok
 
the only thing i have heard about the "revolver shackels" is the unloading when decending a hill can be unnerving...
 
If you want more flex with minimal lift then fit much longer springs up front, i'm using middy, 60 series man leaves in the front. Total of 8 leave up front and it flexes pretty good, excellent compression and drop, better than any non X linked GQ patrol anyways! HAAHa
 
Hulsty said:
If you want more flex with minimal lift then fit much longer springs up front, i'm using middy, 60 series man leaves in the front. Total of 8 leave up front and it flexes pretty good, excellent compression and drop, better than any non X linked GQ patrol anyways! HAAHa
Click to expand...

How much longer are the 60 series springs?
 
Middy/60 series rears are 70mm longer than 70 series fronts.

From the fixed pin.

70 fronts 550mm - 590mm
60 rears 565mm - 645mm

Ideally though they are about 10~20mm to long. If you got the cash get custom length ones made for the front. If night this is a great budget option, can get them for free second hand!

Resulting in:

Picture032-2.jpg


Picture035-3.jpg


Picture043-1.jpg


Picture041-1.jpg
 
Dont bother with the reversal waist of time ,money and time.
 
i missed that completely...nice catch.


thePunter1 said:
Am I missing something? - or are you missing something? Where are the shocks or was this just a test run to see how much articulation you could get?

Regards,
David.
Click to expand...
 
thePunter1 said:
Am I missing something? - or are you missing something? Where are the shocks or was this just a test run to see how much articulation you could get?

Regards,
David.
Click to expand...

Yeah was a test run to measure shock lengths.

Found a rancho that is 400 compressed 685 extended. And my front end is 406mm compressed and 660 extended so they should JUST work, just need 280 bucks now for them
 
suggestion, if you are using shocks that do not cover the full droop then use limiting straps... otherwise there is a chance of the eyes being broken off.
also if the shock does not compress all the way then drop the rubber bump stop mounted to the frame so the shock does not get damaged under full articualtion... in your case the compression doesn't worry me since the rubber will compress the 6 mm.
 
crushers said:
suggestion, if you are using shocks that do not cover the full droop then use limiting straps... otherwise there is a chance of the eyes being broken off.
also if the shock does not compress all the way then drop the rubber bump stop mounted to the frame so the shock does not get damaged under full articualtion... in your case the compression doesn't worry me since the rubber will compress the 6 mm.
Click to expand...

Do RS5000's come with rubber or poly bushes? I hope they are rubber, will have that little more give in compression. They will be fine in extension, I wont be able to top the shock out, it has 1'' more travel than my suspension.

All in all bushwalker, if you use 60 series main and wrap leaves in your existing 2'' pack, with 2'' shackles and maybe an extra leaf or two you should get good results for cheap!!

60 series springs - free!!
2'' shackles - $100
RS5000 shocks -$280

Providing all your other components are in good nick, eg U bolts and bushes the rest of the cost is your time. Cheap and easy flex with resonable results. Or you could get custom length springs made, ideally they would be about 20mm shorter for best results but thats more $$$
 
The front shackles are on a massive angle, which results in a very low springrate, hence why I need 8 leaves to hold the front up. I reckon if the springs was 20mm shorter the setup would be much better, but thats custom springs $$$$.

I tried a 2'' lifted OME rear pack, secondhand the the front went straight to the bumpstops. Second time round I used the main and wrap leaves from the 60 pack and combined them with my original 2'' front pack

Here is a pic

Picture032-1.jpg
 
do you not have room to relocate the shackel mount further forward on the frame to straighten up the shackel?
 
Probably could, havent really looked into that. I guess it'd be easier than custom springs. I could move it 20mm forward and should lose minimal up/down travel. I'm looking at welding in a new mount on the rear so I can use FJ75 springs up back.
 
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