shackle bushings

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by cwb, Aug 4, 2005.

  1. cwb

    cwb

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    Is it okay to retain stock shackles (instead of upgrading to greaseable) and put in some new poly bushings? How hard is it go get the old ones out and put the new ones in?

    Thanks!
     
  2. stinkyfj60

    stinkyfj60

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    Some people have a rough time getting old bushing out, I have replaced set on a 40 and my 60 with no problems at all. I started by spraying TONS of Knocker Loose in around the bushings a couple of weeks before I did the removal. This seems to help break up some of the hold that the old bushings had in the eye. Most the them just popped right out when with a screw driver or pliers...

    I have heard of a few people having to heat them up with a torch to get them to release though.
     
  3. RoddQLD

    RoddQLD

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    Poly bushings last longer if you keep them greased. Greasable shackles shouldn't be too expensive and makes it a hell of a lot easier to re-grease (which should be fairly regularly). The old shackles/bushes can be a bit difficult to get out if they have been in there for ages, and no lube (probably some corrosion on the pins/bolts, and inside the eyes).
    Spray some WD40, RP7, etc around the bushes and shackles a few days before you remove them and it could help. Same with 'U' bolts... wire brush the threads, and spray beforehand coz it does help.
    Use a lever (screwdriver?) in the bush hole, and a blade screwdriver to pry the first bush out, then use a hammer and a rod (socket extension?) to tap the other bush out from the inner end.

    Give the insides of the shackle hanger (part that's welded to the chassis) a sandpaper and then grease before you put the new bushes in to help stop corrosion, and make it easier to get out next time.
    If you do use greasable shackles then you can cut slight grooves into the inner end of each bush to help the grease get to the outside of the bushes.

    Once it's all back together get the car all 'flexed up' and see if you can get some grease between the leaves. I used a steel ruler to get some grease between the leaves.
     
  4. 2badfjs

    2badfjs

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    TORCH EM!!!!!!!!
    put fire to them..flame them, burn them,they will come out nice and clean.
    burn baby! burn!!
    if you have the spings out, this is the only way i'd do it!!!!
     
  5. Tapage

    Tapage Club 4X4 Panamá SILVER Star

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    jummm agree .. !!! :grinpimp:

    Torch em .. !

    Maybe some WD-40 one day before to get out the nuts easy.
     
  6. Fearnofish!

    Fearnofish!

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    I tried to burn emout but just caught the damn thing on fire. Ended up unhooking one end of a coping saw and sliding it through the hole and tehn re-hooking it up. I sawed back and forth until I thought I was close to the steel and then slowed down. Cut in half, they come out VERY Easy. I also think I just like to cut stuff off too! God I love the Sawzall.
     
  7. stinkyfj60

    stinkyfj60

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    Dude, you wont have to torch anything. Hit them with Knocker Loose or even PB Blaster, drive it around, spray them again... When its time to disassemble they will slide right out no problems.
     
  8. Cruisergreg

    Cruisergreg

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    Dude, what he said.

    Seriously, PB Blaster is good stuff - it's amazed me many times. Listen to Jason and do yourself a favor.
     
  9. RoddQLD

    RoddQLD

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    Be verrrry careful using a torch anywhere near the petrol tank!!!!
    And don't waste your gas to burn out rubber bushes unless it's a last resort (and then I wouldn't do it).
     
  10. gulp3000

    gulp3000

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    We PB Blasted my buddy's 40 everyday for week before replacing the shackles. It helped the nuts come loose, but didn't help much with the bushings. We drilled into the bushings to remove some material and then used a BFH and an assortment of other wrong tools for the job.

    On my 60 we were doing springs as well so we just torched the crap out of everything and started beating.
     
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