Setting the timing before the enigne is running

[tonkota]

I've just installed my camshaft and now I'm putting it back together. I will put the distributer in tonight. I have an idea for adjusting the timing before the engine is running and I wanted to bounce it off you guys first.

If I line up the flexplate with the 7*BTDC marks and then install the dist. I was thinking I could time it using my multi-meter and rotate the dist. until #1 connects. I will use the coil wire socket and the #1 wire socket.

Thoughts? Would this be close enough to fire the engine and let it hum at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes for camshaft break-in?

Is there a better way?

 

[REKCUT]

IIRC make sure the engine is on TDC on the #1 cylinder then install the distributor with the rotor pointing at the #1 post on the dist

 

[D'Animal]

Make sure you season your new camshaft upon startup.

I would probably spin the oil pump to get the oil to the top of the engine as well.

 

[weak-link]

x2...

IIRC make sure the engine is on TDC on the #1 cylinder then install the distributor with the rotor pointing at the #1 post on the dist

 

[tonkota]

Make sure you season your new camshaft upon startup.

I would probably spin the oil pump to get the oil to the top of the engine as well.

Thanks guys.

The cam is lubed up with high pressure moly per the manufacturers recommendation. Then they said to run it at 1500-2000 RPM for 20 minutes.

Yeeeeee Haaawww

 

[chesshircat]

saw the handle off a cheap flat head screw driver and put it in a drill and spin the oil pump to get oil flowing, doesn't matter if the timing is off when you start it, like the other post, point the rotor at # 1, just get it close. once it get warm put a light on it

 

[tonkota]

The problem is how do I know if I have it one tooth off? Sure I can get it close enough to sputter and cough.

I don't own a timing light, and if I did I don't think I could ever get it there and see the two dots to time it. I have them painted to I can see them easier too. I normally set it by trial/error and ear over time.

Why should I set the pointer to the TDC dot and then set the timing? Isn't the spark supposed to occur 7* BTDC? Isn't that where the electrical connection will occur? That is why I wanted to use the multi-meter to set the timing.

Sorry for all the questions, but I am learning here.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

You can set the timing by eye on a 60. Set the pointer on the 7 degree BTDC mark, line up the rotor with the line scribed on the pick-up. When I did this, I was only 1 degree off and it started right up. This assumes you have installed the body of the distributor correctly.

You must have a timing light, so bite that bullet and get one now. The ones with the variable advance are worth the extra $20.

When first start, make sure you have immediate oil pressure, since a properly seated distributor shaft drives the oil pump. If you don't, shut down and make sure the distributor body is fully seated in the block.

 

[tonkota]

You must have a timing light, so bite that bullet and get one now. The ones with the variable advance are worth the extra $20.

And how do I get my fat head where I can see the marks and the light? The dist. is in the way, along with the spaghetti mess of vacuum lines and the air intake hose. I've tried to use one before on this cruiser, I'm just not a gymnast or contortionist.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

And how do I get my fat head where I can see the marks and the light? The dist. is in the way, along with the spaghetti mess of vacuum lines and the air intake hose. I've tried to use one before on this cruiser, I'm just not a gymnast or contortionist.

It isn't that hard. Even if you don't have a direct shot, enough stray light will light up the portal. Really! My timing light is about the size of a .45 and I don't remember any problems getting the light where it needs to shine.

 

[Yoda60]

turn motor over by hand untill the timing mark is on the required timing degree and rotor pointing to no#1......when you have the pointer aligned turn ignition on and attack a test light to the coil slowly rotate distributor untill light turns off

ps Can some one post a pic of an american 2f timing mark set up...it souns different from whats on a 2f in aust Cheers

 

[tonkota]

It isn't that hard. Even if you don't have a direct shot, enough stray light will light up the portal. Really! My timing light is about the size of a .45 and I don't remember any problems getting the light where it needs to shine.

The light may not need to be straight, but my line of sight does right?

Plus, my head is very fat

 

[tonkota]

ps Can some one post a pic of an american 2f timing mark set up...it souns different from whats on a 2f in aust Cheers

I can snap a pic tonight.

 

[Yoda60]

cheers mate!!

 

[chesshircat]

the light will light up the mark on the fly wheel, just keep moving the dist until the bubble, light, and pointer are at the same spot. doesn't matter if you are a tooth off, as long as the cap can be turned far enough. you could put in 180 out as long as you could turn the cap 180 out

 

[tonkota]

the light will light up the mark on the fly wheel, just keep moving the dist until the bubble, light, and pointer are at the same spot. doesn't matter if you are a tooth off, as long as the cap can be turned far enough. you could put in 180 out as long as you could turn the cap 180 out

Then how would you secure the dist. to the block? If I'm a tooth off, I can't bolt it to the block and have it still be timed.

 

[chesshircat]

Then how would you secure the dist. to the block? If I'm a tooth off, I can't bolt it to the block and have it still be timed.

I might confuse you but here goes, the dist. body is what is tightened to the block, but can be turned 360 degrees before tightened (maybe not on this motor, been a while since i timed a 2f). the motor doesn't know where the dist body is set or where the rotor is pointed, only when the end of the button lines up with the terminal inside the cap that goes to the plug. this is the timing - when the current is sent to the plug. You could shift all the plug wires the same direction as long as you compensate by turning the dist body. If you put the rotor in 180 out it won't run, but you could turn the dist 180 and it would run, but usually a dist body has something that prohibits it from turning all the way around vacum hoses) You could time a motor off any cylinder as long as you have everything matching up at the right time. My buddies and i run dirt-track cars, everything homemade, sometimes there is something in the way of setting the dist. in the "correct" position, but as long as you shift everything you can still make it work.

 

[chesshircat]

The problem is how do I know if I have it one tooth off? Sure I can get it close enough to sputter and cough.

I don't own a timing light, and if I did I don't think I could ever get it there and see the two dots to time it. I have them painted to I can see them easier too. I normally set it by trial/error and ear over time.

Why should I set the pointer to the TDC dot and then set the timing? Isn't the spark supposed to occur 7* BTDC? Isn't that where the electrical connection will occur? That is why I wanted to use the multi-meter to set the timing.

Sorry for all the questions, but I am learning here.

tooth off - if you are a tooth off the dist won't seat. If you manually turn the oil pump with a screwdriver or whatever you will have to get the oil pump slot lined up before you try to seat the dist, trial and eror. if i remeber correctly the haynes manual shows a reference point to set the slot on the oil pump. kind of hard to explane if you want my phone # let me know i can explane it to you better

 

[Godwin]

tooth off - if you are a tooth off the dist won't seat. If you manually turn the oil pump with a screwdriver or whatever you will have to get the oil pump slot lined up before you try to seat the dist, trial and eror. if i remeber correctly the haynes manual shows a reference point to set the slot on the oil pump. kind of hard to explane if you want my phone # let me know i can explane it to you better

You can be a tooth off and have the distributor seat if the oil pump drive is not aligned correctly.

 

[tonkota]

Here is a picture of the timing mark