Servicing your ignition switch (2 Viewers)

[Kernal]

This is something 80 owners may never have to do but as I had the panels off and had been working in that area (see Bilt4Me's "My Ignition Broke" thread) I decided to take a look at the guts of the actual ignition switch while it was still attached to the cowl harness.

Here's a link if you want to get acquainted with the ignition parts (lock cylinder, rod, upper bracket, ignition switch)

My Ignition Broke!

I went to restart my 96 Land Cruiser (1FZ-FE) and the switch turned on, but it wouldn't start. The key flopped all the way to the right , but wouldn't return and there was no "spring" back from the start position. I noticed that my radio had power, my ABS light was on (because it's always on)...

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Servicing your ignition switch:

Short story: don't mess with it unless you see sparks. IMHO it's unlikely very many people will have an issue with this part until you reach very high miles. The 80 this switch is attached to has 385,000 miles on it.

Long story: I decided to check out the switch because it was all in front of me due to a broken ignition rod.

There is a white plastic cap that holds the guts of the switch together that can be gently pried off by using a small blade or pick or just your fingers. It's the type of job that probably should be done on a bench but can be done with the switch in place if you're very careful (not to lose parts).
(see the link above before starting to get oriented to the ignition components)

WARNING: I disconnected the negative battery clamp/cable first so I didn't produce sparks or blow fuses.

The small parts inside are lightly spring loaded and parts will go flying if you aren't super careful. I cleaned off the floor of the footwell first and put down new (flat) papertowels to catch anything that might pop out (a white sheet would work also), but if you slowly remove the white cap you should be able to capture everything.

TIP: I kept the switch/cap pointing downward (open side up) as best I could as I removed the cap to help prevent losing parts. Also I worked on the switch with it 100% of the time on/over the front seat. If the small springs or ball bearings drop on the ground you're done.

The photos tell the story. I didn't take an initial photo of the slightly burned contacts and some blackened grease before cleaning it off but you'll get the idea; there is bound to be some oxidation after 25+ years of power going through this switch.


First photo shows what you should see if you don't lose anything, two copper contact plates and some old grease. The top plate is not held in place by anything. Caution: there are two very small springs under that plate.

As always, double click on the photo to get a magnified view:

Note the darker contact areas/streaks and old grease.

This shows the top plate removed, note the two small springs which will fall out if you tip things over. The top plate came off easy; there is a small tab you can see, that fits into a slot of the center black assembly. The larger plate can be lifted using a small pick.

Both plates removed; magnify and look closely, there are three more small springs sitting vertically in holes in the black center section. These can fall out. They may also come up with the plate so work carefully.

This next photo below shows the center section removed.

WARNING: There are two spring loaded ball bearings, one on either side of the black assembly, hold your fingers over the balls as you remove the assembly. These spring loaded bearings roll into successive vertical grooves in the white cap as you turn the key which gives you that tactile feedback when you're in the next location ie: ACC ON Start. Sorry, didn't get a photo showing the spring loaded holes in the sides of the assembly but it's obvious how it works once you have it in front of you.

Note: I kept that black center assembly upright at all times:
Also, after cleaning up the cap using a plastic safe solvent I smeared some DEOXIT grease on the inside with attention to the grooves the ball bearings sit in and anywhere there's contact between moving parts. (note: the photo of the white cap below shows it as found, not cleaned or regreased yet)

The last photos shows the copper contact plates with the oxidation and old grease cleaned off. I removed the old grease then used a grey 3M sanding pad followed by 4-0 steel wool (followed by running a magnet over the plate to remove any tiny bits of steel wool), cleaned them off again with solvent then applied DEOXIT L260DNP grease which is made for switches like this. Applied a little fresh grease to each spring and the ball bearings (they all had old grease on them).

Be careful not to lose the two ball bearings or the five springs pointing up (magnify and count the springs) or the two springs on the sides (not shown):

FWIW after first sanding and cleaning the contact plates I applied the DEOXIT grease, let it sit a few minutes, then wiped it off, got more oxidation off on the paper towel, then reapplied the grease which is designed to remove old oxidation and help prevent it in the future.

 

[Kernal]

This next photo is of the side of the switch where the cap snaps onto showing the fixed contacts after they've been cleaned and lightly sanded. Before putting the white cap back on I smeared the same DEOXIT L260 DNp (no particles) grease on the contacts and surfaces that come in contact with the rotating parts.

The photo is looking up from the wheel well, out of focus in the top right background is the Upper (Steering) Bracket where the ignition switch is normally attached (slides into a cup shape at the end of the barrel) and is held in place by one screw (not shown).

Last photo (below) shows the plate contacts before they were cleaned up, magnify and you can see some light burn marks from the contacts. There was a small degree of erosion under those circular marks that I flat sanded some in order to keep the contact surface as flat as possible.

(not sure why this last photo doesn't show up in a larger format,
just double click to get a close-up view)

 

[Kernal]

Didn't get a photo but I smeared the DEOXIT grease on the inside of the plastic cap where the black assembly and balls rotated (as well on the springs, plates, and contacts before reassembly).

Also not shown is the large internal return spring in the center of the black assembly (it's captured, won't fall out). I put some grease into that area as well.

When reassembling the plates I referred back to multiple photos I took beforehand to line everything back up exactly how it was, but it appears that the plates can only go back together one way, so if everything fits back together you're probably good. To get the spring loaded balls back into their holes on the side of the black assembly I put one ball in one side pushed that side down a bit to capture the ball, then lifted the other side slightly, slid that ball in and pushed that side back down. It took a bit of fiddling to get it all back together and level but not difficult if you take your time.

 

[mudgudgeon]

In before the reservations run out!

 

[Kernal]

So it's all back together now as shown below.

See Bilt4Me's My Ignition Broke thread if you want to see how it all goes together (lock cylinder, rod, upper bracket, ignition switch)

And this is the orientation you want it to be in when removing or reattaching the working end of switch if left in place. After pushing the white cap back on and ensured that it snapped back into place onto the black base I reconnected the negative battry cable, then turned the switch using a flat-bladed screwdriver and vroom, the engine started; no sparks, smoke, or popped fuses.

 

[Kernal]

One last photo showing a new ignition switch for reference:

Key Search terms: Ignition Switch Assy part number 84450-60270