Service: Wheel bearing, Steering Knuckle, Rack OE rubber mounting bushings, Ball joints, Transmission flush W/Surprises! (2 Viewers)

[uHu]

I also was not overly concerned with a weak ball joint. WRONG again!

The ball joint on the Prado is upside down, all the time trying to pull the joint apart, hanging in the ball. The 100 is pushing it together.

Reading one of your service threads is like reading a crime novel, the evidence is in the details and a very structured approach.

 

[2001LC]

I had no idea Prado was so different.

I always try and determine the why. It's important to understand why, too correct so issues don't return. So with every job I try to be a detective

I have a lot of 100 series come to me for issues after a corner shop or Dealership has worked on it. The list of improper procedure or incompetence I see is long. Sometimes it is just a mistake, happens!

Lesson with the busted lugs, is one I learned long ago. These tire shop around here, do it so often they have accounts with shop that will replace lugs. Their concern is with speed. They look at it, as a cost of business. It's why, I always go into shop while tire work done or windshield for that matter. One of the team leaders at tire I use, knows what I like and don't like. He makes sure lift points are where I like. Pulls all old wheel weights before running up on road force balancer. He also tells is helper; Start Wheel lugs by hand and go easy with impact. I've got him trained..LOL, but I still go in shop every time.

I had one rig go to Cosco for tires. They kick me out of shop. My client prepaid so not in my control. I warned tech, start lug nuts by hand and if impact used go easy. Meaning turned down pressure and easy on trigger, so the lug does get pulled hard by force of impact wrench.

Well they didn't follow instruction. They didn't bust a lug. But did over torque with force of impact. This pulls the rear wheel lugs out hard and bends the oil defector. Which in turn busted the thick gasket between oil defector and wheel hub. Then as we ( my buyer and I) test drive, we hear scraping from rear wheel brakes. It was the busted gasket scarping inside the drum. It not critical unless a rear axle seal leak. But it is annoying. To fix it, is a very big deal that take many parts and a press. Just because the concern is with speed, rather than proper procedure.
Check you oil defects guys. I'll bet 9 out of 10 over 90K miles are bent like this. I've seen a few that oil defector and gasket are still flat and making a good seal. They where on very low mile 100's.

 

[dace voit]

Then as we ( my buyer and I) test drive, we hear scraping from rear wheel brakes. It was the busted gasket scarping inside the drum.

I have this from the right rear on my truck. I've been thinking it was a small rock or excess dirt from living 1 mile back on a dirt road. It may be just that, but not sure. It's annoying. It isn't constant but is still there...

 

[Jimthom]

I had no idea Prado was so different.

I always try and determine the why. It's important to understand why, too correct so issues don't return. So with every job I try to be a detective

I have a lot of 100 series come to me for issues after a corner shop or Dealership has worked on it. The list of improper procedure or incompetence I see is long. Sometimes it is just a mistake, happens!

Lesson with the busted lugs, is one I learned long ago. These tire shop around here, do it so often they have accounts with shop that will replace lugs. Their concern is with speed. They look at it, as a cost of business. It's why, I always go into shop while tire work done or windshield for that matter. One of the team leaders at tire I use, knows what I like and don't like. He makes sure lift points are where I like. Pulls all old wheel weights before running up on road force balancer. He also tells is helper; Start Wheel lugs by hand and go easy with impact. I've got him trained..LOL, but I still go in shop every time.

I had one rig go to Cosco for tires. They kick me out of shop. My client prepaid so not in my control. I warned tech, start lug nuts by hand and if impact used go easy. Meaning turned down pressure and easy on trigger, so the lug does get pulled hard by force of impact wrench.

Well they didn't follow instruction. They didn't bust a lug. But did over torque with force of impact. This pulls the rear wheel lugs out hard and bends the oil defector. Which in turn busted the thick gasket between oil defector and wheel hub. Then as we ( my buyer and I) test drive, we hear scraping from rear wheel brakes. It was the busted gasket scarping inside the drum. It not critical unless a rear axle seal leak. But it is annoying. To fix it, is a very big deal that take many parts and a press. Just because the concern is with speed, rather than proper procedure.
Check you oil defects guys. I'll bet 9 out of 10 over 90K miles are bent like this. I've seen a few that oil defector and gasket are still flat and making a good seal. They where on very low mile 100's.
View attachment 2111205
View attachment 2111204

Ulp. I don't want to look.
170,000 and many different tires and wheel mountings.
But no scraping sound.

I just want to thank you for your comprehensive postings.
They are my weekly mechanical education lessons and incredibly informative.

 

[2001LC]

I have this from the right rear on my truck. I've been thinking it was a small rock or excess dirt from living 1 mile back on a dirt road. It may be just that, but not sure. It's annoying. It isn't constant but is still there...

I looked to see if I've any pictures your oil deflect, nope! So can't say. But for sure TBK had been in at least a few tire shops.

Ulp. I don't want to look.
170,000 and many different tires and wheel mountings.
But no scraping sound.

I just want to thank you for your comprehensive postings.
They are my weekly mechanical education lessons and incredibly informative.

It is very common. Next rear brake job have a look.

Your welcome. Class begins shorly

 

[2001LC]

Steering rack & pinion mounting bushing 03-07

Well I finally got my answer. OE rubber mounting bushing can be installed without removing rack in 03-07. I still have my doubts this can be done in the 98-02 racks. Those OE rubber are one piece, and the rear mount on those I doubt (IDK) have room to set full bushing on top.


So it took about 3.75 hours. Not including jacking up then down and R&R skid plate. 30 minutes was just looking at it and picture of previous rack job on a 06LC. On that one, I had removed (for other work) the HP line, air box, drive belt and fan shroud. That gave me more room to work from below and above.

I wanted to remove just the minimum here. So just removed the Low and high pressure line brackets and PS rack mounting bolt to start. I suppose I could've do without jacking up placing on jack stands, by would tight without some lift.

I sharpen the flat blade bit for my air chisel, so I could more easily get under lip of bushes cup and started at PS lower.

Work form one side then the other I walk out bushing 1 of 4.

Bushing 2

PS is steel cup in steel rack.

Then pulled the DS bolt and remove #3 & 4 bushings and yes these are a bit tougher. Tough to get angle on as is tighter area to work in. Would have had more room if I pulled the oil filter, but didn't. I did find spraying penetrating oil on the DS once I had a lip of cup up, was very helpful. Seems the steel cups were a bit stuck in the aluminum rack of DS.

Rubber of DS lower bushing was in real bad condition. It's the one that would have had the most oil soaking over the years. I base that on known ATF cooler line leak and appearance. Also I've been guilty on many an oil filter change, of get sloppy.

 

[2001LC]

Old out, now time for new OE style rubber bushing install. I was told these fit 200 series also. A little grease spread on out side metal cup, aids in install.

I started with a bolt, washer and nut setup I've used in the past for poly. But found I could just use the factory bolts, to pull/press in bushing. Just as when doing poly, I started with upper halve first. I did DS first as felt it would be most difficult and if found to be too challenging I just pull the rack.
Keeping the rack aligned was a bit challenging as it had rolled back a bit. Extra hand would have been nice, but doable alone.

Trick is to make sure bushing is sitting square as it's drawn into rack. Naturally orientation is very important. Which with the flat edges of outer steel cup easy to see, lining up by eye parallel with rack was easy. This puts the solid rubber parts of bushings core, perpendicular to rack.

This is important. The upper bushings steel center cup of bushing compresses into lower bushings steel center cup, due to the two metal cups halves, having a rubber core. This cause the second 1/2 of bushing to bottom out about 3/8" before it is seated in the racks socket. So I used a large C clamp to pull down rack, thereby seating the bushing in its socket that last ~3/8". About the only spot I could get a good bit on easily with C clamp, was the rabbit ear that bracket for hose threads into. The DS being aluminium had me a little concerned it could break. So I was very careful tightening down the C clap. But since bushing was nice and square in its socket, and that little bit of grease I used on them. It pressed in without issue that last 3/8"

I was playing around with no washer to start nut on top. Then I'd add washers top & bottom out of concern I'd run out of thread on the factory bolt and to reduce friction as I spun the bolt. But really I think washer were over kill.

Finished PS and replaced all my brackets, then with only the one factory washer on top. I torqued mounting bolts to 89ft-lbf.
with air tools


I don't think I'd try this job without and air chisel. The DS is to tight and area to use a hammer & chisel.

So in conclusion. Is this faster and or easier than pulling rack out and doing job on beach. Well yes, in that pulling rack means removing HP & low pressure line which requiring a gaskets/washers for HP connection, flushing fluid requiring 1qt ATF, freeing fan shroud, remove oil filter, removing DS TRE from rack and both TREs from knuckles, remove engine mounting bolts and raising engine.

It is more difficult to get bushing out without pulling rack. But pressing bushing in, was only slight more difficult this way.

So would I use rubber OE again and do this way YES!

 

[2001LC]

Knuckle Stop missing from PS LCA. Likely just loosen over time and fell out.

I pickup new OEM stop bolt and lock nut from my local Toyota Dealership.

This rig has wheel spacer on it. Which would give more clearance for tires from rubbing. But still it looked like tire may have hit inner fender plastic shielding a little in a full RH turn.

I started by spray knuckle stop threads in RH LCA with penetrating oil. This was to aid in loosen rust and crud that built up in threads. I then used a micro brush to clean out.

Then got out my M14X1.5 thread restore tool

 

[2001LC]

Darned if I could not get the thread restore tool to start. Seems as bolt was near point with only a few turns remaining before it would fall out, threads were damaged. I've seen before were stops out so far, that as knuckle turned into the stop it put side pressure on bolt damaging threads. So that must be the case here.

So I started with least aggressive method to ream out the first thread or two.

Still thread restore tool wouldn't catch a thread. So use a little more aggressive tool to ream out.

Still thread restore tool wouldn't catch a thread. So I use a little more aggressive tool to ream out. Running out of tools to chooses from!.

Once I did get thread restore tool to started squarely. The tool was so tight in threads, I had to turn just a 1/4 turn and remove and clean. I really didn't want to break a second one of these on this job.
This 10 minute job (not including ordering and parts run) took 90 minutes.

I lock in a same length as opposite side. ~20mm

 

[2001LC]

Ball Joints lowers.

Ball joints and sloppy steering rack can go hand and hand. These lower ball joints are both shot. All other ball joint felt good, except DS inner tie rod which doesn't have play, but is a little loose. For now I'm just put that inner TR on watch list.

I've found the easiest way to get lowers out, is knock them out. So I clean and hit with penetrating oil first thing, letting soak as I gather tools.


Lock ring needs knocking out first. (stock Picture)

The trick to knocking them out is give LCA a good solid support. For this a use my bottle jack, place very close to ball joint. Then 2 maybe 3 wacks with a 5lb sledge.

I've got a nice wire brush for clean up. Clean aids when time to press new in.

 

[2001LC]

A little grease on bare metal helps keep new ball from binding while pressing, Added benefit of use a grease that does wash out is rust protection. (Stock picture)

I like to mark around top collar part of press tool, on LCA with red, This help to make sure tool is centered once ready to press..

3/4 breaker bar is my best friend here. Once I've press lined-up, I crank it down. The force feed back on breaker bar should be constant, once I feel it get harder I stop. If all went well it's in.

Then place boot back on.
Boot must be removed in the beginning, to get the proper size press cylinder tool on. Or the size of cylinder you'll fine in the ball joint press kit that fits with boot on, is to large and sloppy. .

 

[2001LC]

Stabilizer System.

When the stabilizer systems gets worn out, handle curves on HWY suffers. What you'll notice as steering through a curve in the road, the steering needs adjust for sway. Steering correction make a "seat-of-the-pants feel" unstable, which it is.

Front links are just one small part of stabilizer system. But the part that typically needs the most attention.

Spotted this cracked stabilizer link rubber bushing, while working the RH side.
The cushions on top are cracking here also, but I'm less concerned with those. We're going to leave this alone for now. Until decision on lift is made.

Here's what I look for, that does need attention immediately when I see it.
Typically I'll see rubber so worn, it's metal to metal. I replace those as it damages the LCA bracket.
(Stock picture)

(Stock picture)

 

[savirc]

@2001LC I love reading everyone of your threads..

 

[2001LC]

@2001LC I love reading everyone of your threads..

Thanks for saying so. Sometimes I wonder if I'm wasting my time. Comments like yours give me encouragement.

 

[katit]

Thanks for saying so. Sometimes I wonder if I'm wasting my time. Comments like yours give me encouragement.

It's labor of love. I relax being in garage, to me it's not "working on car" but rather hanging out and learning something.

 

[savirc]

Thanks for saying so. Sometimes I wonder if I'm wasting my time. Comments like yours give me encouragement.

You are absolutely not wasting your time, your detailed threads are better than the service manuals, and the help you have provided here will outlast both of us. Thanks so much for spending so much time to help us all here.

 

[2001LC]

Steering Knuckle.


About a year ago I was going to stop recommending "knuckle service". As other than finding axle bearing and bushing not re-grease since factory. I wasn't finding much else, except in some extreme cases. Like when no oil seal or dust shield from aftermarket front drive shaft (FDS) install or contamination from FDS install.

But this year I've found a string of issues while doing knuckle service. So I'm going to continue to recommend, my first time into a wheel bearing service. It is also the only way to really inspect needle bearing and ball joints. A ball joint with movement up and down in the socket is shot. At point that movement is seen, its been loose too long and shot. FSM actually has a much more restrictive spin test, that most ball joints in our aging fleet will not pass. It's basically done with mini torque wench, where we must get 8.9 to 39in·lbf to spin ball in socket.

With new 555 ball joint in, time to get the steering knuckles restored and install.

With the rough re-condition and cleaning done on knuckle. Final inspecting, polishing, servicing, seals install and greasing up next.

First was inspecting the axle needle bearing. This can be a tough call. I look at axle of FDS where bearing rides first, for clues as to how bearing was running.

The PS had the contaminated looking grease in back in the axle bushing and needle bearing sealed area. This PS axle did had some discoloration indicate possible high heat running. PS also had the very wide snap ring (SR) gap that took the thickest SR (2.8mm) available to get to spec of <0.20mm gap. Brass bushing wear is number one effect on gap and this bushing was glazed and so loose it basically fell out. I'm replacing that brash bushing for sure.

I see some indication of bearing running hot. No bad and can easily be polished. But axle needle bearing needs close inspect to make final call.

Bearing actual looks okay, so I'll not be replacing. Here is where cleaning counts, as only way it can be seen clearly.

I will replace brass bushing.

I found just need a few taps to drive in with plastic hammer, since bearing was in place.

 

[2001LC]

Spindle had some signs of excessive heat, likely wheel bearing chatter from loose wheel bearing. Also had what looked like rust, indicating wheel hub oil seal not doing it's job. Which may also be a due to loose wheel bearings, as hub moves around effecting seal. But kind of unusual as area is cover in grease. Back of spindle has some scoring from large bearing chattering on it. This is second point that effect snap ring gap.

Nothing very concerning and easily polished with any sand paper. I use Emery cloth as holds up better than just any old sand paper.

At this point I've all cleaning, polishing and knuckle ready for seal. I like installing seal before greases or oils. Then do a final wipe as blow off with high pressure air.
This is old stock footage where I had already greased axle bearing and brass bushing. I do like to just grease lip where seal seat in knuckle, until after seating seal. Greasing lip prevent rust and makes easier to install seal. I just press in by hand as far as I can, then place a hard board flat on seal and give a good wack or two or three on broad with hammer. Just make sure broad is flat on seal squarely and not obstructed by knuckle protrusions. A seal seating tool here is nice. But this method works just fine.

Will still protrude about 3mm when seated.

Here's actual of this knuckle I'm working on, with seal in. New Seal is just one more benefit of knuckle service.

 

[2001LC]

I get FDS ready to receive steering knuckle. Ball joint boots clean and ready. Notice the 2x2" wood I placed on LCA. This keep the dust shield of FDS off the metal of LCA, so I don't bent the dust shield. So often I'll hear some say my bearings are too tight, wrong. They bent the shield and it scrapes the knuckle seal. They can be bent back easily, but the wood takes care of it so no worries!

I polished and cleaned the axle and dust shield, I don't even want any lint on surfaces, so I blow with air be before wiping on any greases or oils. I also polished the area the knuckle seal will ride on, and wipe just a thin layer of grease here also. It help seal slip on and seat. Notice also, where the needle bearing will ride, I used a cross hatch sanding method to aid in bearing seating. Additional I polish where the brass bushing butts the axle.

Axle looks good, just a very little wear on splines.

With seal in place and all cleaned, recondition and ready to install. I press grease into needle bearing. I take my time and turn bearing as I work all the way around. Just using my fingers. Then coat brass bushing.

Then I install the steering knuckle. It now getting fun! Notice I grease the ball joint studs. That just how I like to do it. Makes next service easier. But can make getting nut torque difficult if stud spins.
Some stock footage found in my YouTube page.


Torque:
Lower Ball joint 117ft-lbf
TRE 90 ft-lbf
Upper ball joint 81ft-lbf
all are starting points. We then tighten until first hole for cotter pin available.

 

[2001LC]

Wheel hubs

Bearings cleaned and time to inspect. PS large races is marginal (heat soaked, glazed with a little scoring) but maybe polish-able. So I'll let bearings condition make the call if replacement is called for.

I found large bearing had one roller in bad condition. So bearing replacement is called for.

Trash

Can't pull a name off back of bearing. Chatter on back of spindle completely obscure any identification.