service life of OEM springs and t-bars (1 Viewer)

[pstevens3307]

2004 LC just about to turn 200k. I use the truck as my DD, which involves some driving on fairly rough forest roads, though no serious wheeling. I don't have any need for a lift and am not planning on adding armor.

Ride quality has deteriorated over the last ~50k. Clearly time for new shocks, but while in there should I replace the torsion bars and springs? How many miles should they be expected to last before needing replacement?

I'm assuming I'll use OEM parts, unless persuaded otherwise.

Thoughts/suggestions welcome.

TIA.

 

[ramangain]

What's the status of the rubber squishy bits?

 

[pstevens3307]

The rubber bits all seem intact and not too squishy.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

What's the status of the rubber squishy bits?

inquiring minds want to know

 

[ramangain]

The rubber bits all seem intact and not too squishy.

I was more curious about objective things, like age/mileage. You may be (over)due for new squishy bits all around.

 

[pstevens3307]

I bought the truck with 147k on the clock and minimal service history, so I think it's probably safe to assume that all the rubber (except the tires) is original. What would be included in a comprehensive list of bushings etc that ought to be replaced?

 

[ramangain]

Prepare for the "full/real" Hundy ownership experience. B4lls deep!

 

[pstevens3307]

Okay. Bracing myself. Can you elaborate?

 

[AlpineAccess]

Uffda. Yeah if you want better ride quality you're at the point we all have reached. Its the blue pill red pill thing.

1. Deal with the ride quality not being what it was when you bought it and put on some quality shocks that take the edge off. "Just drive it" and remember its 20 years old.

2. Replace all aged/dried out rubber, which is everything in the suspension. New control arm bushings (front and rear, upper and lower), sway bar bushings (front and rear). New shocks. Torsion bars just need to be adjusted, they are probably fine just settled over time. You can get new rear coils or throw a coil packer on top of them to get the ride height back to stock. New coils probably best. By then you'll find everything is getting so much better and want to get the last 10-20%. Which is new front diff bushings and new steering rack bushings. At that point you'll have found and replaced 10-20 other things because you're digging around and finding stuff.

Reality:

1. You will still get another 100k+ out everything and have to replace a part or two every couple years. It won't drive as well but it's a land cruiser, you'll get where you need to go and still be comfortable.

2. Champagne will fall from the heavens, your land cruiser will once again make friends with brand new Ford and GM cars say "HOW many miles does this have?!" and you'll have invested so much in the suspension that you will then also want to fix every other issue that comes up over time. You'll start by replacing all of the fluids, then go through all the vacuum and evap hoses one by one. After the first few months you'll start having dreams about what torque you set your wheel bearing pre-load to, and after a few years you'll realize that while alternators/steering pumps/starters come and go the mighty 2UZ is forever.


Both solutions work. 1 is a lot less expensive and you'll eventually get the bug to go buy something newer, which will be expensive. 2 - well.... I think all of us here will have to get back to you when we figure out how it turns out.

 

[pstevens3307]

@AlpineAccess thanks! Very helpful. Now all I have to do is decide which color pill to take...

 

[ramangain]

after a few years you'll realize that while alternators/steering pumps/starters come and go the mighty 2UZ is forever.

@AlpineAccess might i suggest you add this epic line to your sig?

 

[AlpineAccess]

@AlpineAccess might i suggest you add this epic line to your sig?

I'm not sure I'm ready to give up razzing stateside 'overlanding culture' just yet

 

[flintknapper]

2. Replace all aged/dried out rubber, which is everything in the suspension. New control arm bushings (front and rear, upper and lower), sway bar bushings (front and rear). New shocks. Torsion bars just need to be adjusted, they are probably fine just settled over time. You can get new rear coils or throw a coil packer on top of them to get the ride height back to stock. New coils probably best. By then you'll find everything is getting so much better and want to get the last 10-20%. Which is new front diff bushings and new steering rack bushings. At that point you'll have found and replaced 10-20 other things because you're digging around and finding stuff.

Empirical Evidence below.....Mea Culpa.


But it sure does ride and steer nice.

 

[77HesterSue]

Empirical Evidence below.....Mea Culpa.


But it sure does ride and steer nice.

View attachment 2649223

View attachment 2649224

Nice! What did this cost?

 

[flintknapper]

Nice! What did this cost?

Don't know, never added it up. Not too bad. I did all the work.

All the hard parts (control arms, hubs, etc...) were bead blasted, primed and repainted, consumables replaced.

All new bushings, bearings, seals, ball joints, TRE's etc......

Basically freshened up the front end whether all the parts needed it or not. I plan to keep the vehicle forever.

Not suggesting everyone do this. Its just what I chose to do. Well....that and I'm retired.

 

[reznunt]

Empirical Evidence below.....Mea Culpa.


But it sure does ride and steer nice.

View attachment 2649223

View attachment 2649224

That hurts my back just looking at those pics.

 

[Bisho]

That hurts my back just looking at those pics.

Every time I use my lift I hear angels singing.

...My name is Brian, and I’m a gear head...

 

[hickuptruck]

Don't know, never added it up. Not too bad. I did all the work.

All the hard parts (control arms, hubs, etc...) were bead blasted, primed and repainted, consumables replaced.

All new bushings, bearings, seals, ball joints, TRE's etc......

Basically freshened up the front end whether all the parts needed it or not. I plan to keep the vehicle forever.

Not suggesting everyone do this. Its just what I chose to do. Well....that and I'm retired.

Yeah, "not too bad". Can confirm....."not too bad".

Make sure you get OEM parts and none of that Rock auto parts store crap, or you'll be doing labour twice within 25k miles.

1st pic is where all the money is at $$$$$.
Dont forget diff bushings, engine mounts, trans mounts and rear control arms.