Serpentine Belt Replacement (1 Viewer)

[016LC]

Can the serpentine accessory drive belt on the 200 series(2016) be replaced by accessing it from under the hood(rather than from below, requiring removal of the protection panels), maybe requiring removal of the coolant overflow container? I did it several times on my 100 series and it was a simple matter of routing the new belt properly and then using a wrench on the tensioner to rotate it to reduce tension on the tensioner pulley and sliding the belt over it. Any pitfalls or tips? I am at 75,000 miles and it seems like a good idea before summer travels. Should I replace the tensioner at the same time? My son-in-law had a tensioner fail on his Suburban at freeway speeds and it was pretty ugly.

Peter

 

[bloc]

Can the serpentine accessory drive belt on the 200 series(2016) be replaced by accessing it from under the hood(rather than from below, requiring removal of the protection panels), maybe requiring removal of the coolant overflow container? I did it several times on my 100 series and it was a simple matter of routing the new belt properly and then using a wrench on the tensioner to rotate it to reduce tension on the tensioner pulley and sliding the belt over it. Any pitfalls or tips? I am at 75,000 miles and it seems like a good idea before summer travels. Should I replace the tensioner at the same time? My son-in-law had a tensioner fail on his Suburban at freeway speeds and it was pretty ugly.

Peter

It can be done but is significantly more difficult from the top.

From the bottom of you remove the panels and center rib, which takes about 2 minutes with a battery impact, you have good access to both the hex on the tensioner to swing the breaker bar all the way across, plus room to insert a pin in the tensioner to hold it back as you fit the new belt.

My experience has been that from the top it is as much luck as skill whether your socket will be indexed correctly to get the full throw of the breaker bar. If it doesn’t work right the bar/ratchet will contact parts before you completely remove tension.. then you are stuck there with the bar in the way of getting the belt off.

To me whether to do the tensioner at 75k would depend on your intended use for the truck, and more specifically the cooling demands. If you are towing heavy, or planning to be wheeling low speed in Death Valley… do it. If you are not loaded down heavy, etc.. I’d think the tensioner is good well past 100k. Unless the belt is squealing or something.

 

[016LC]

It can be done but is significantly more difficult from the top.

From the bottom of you remove the panels and center rib, which takes about 2 minutes with a battery impact, you have good access to both the hex on the tensioner to swing the breaker bar all the way across, plus room to insert a pin in the tensioner to hold it back as you fit the new belt.

My experience has been that from the top it is as much luck as skill whether your socket will be indexed correctly to get the full throw of the breaker bar. If it doesn’t work right the bar/ratchet will contact parts before you completely remove tension.. then you are stuck there with the bar in the way of getting the belt off.

To me whether to do the tensioner at 75k would depend on your intended use for the truck, and more specifically the cooling demands. If you are towing heavy, or planning to be wheeling low speed in Death Valley… do it. If you are not loaded down heavy, etc.. I’d think the tensioner is good well past 100k. Unless the belt is squealing or something.

Thank you. That is exactly the information I was looking for.

 

[tbisaacs]

+1 doing from bottom. I would replace the idler and tensioner while you are in there. The OEM parts are made by DAYCO

 

[kcjaz]

Wow. Didn’t occur to me to try it from the bottom. Sad thing is I had the skids removed when I did it. I don’t recall it really being that hard from the top.

 

[hankinid]

+1 doing from bottom. I would replace the idler and tensioner while you are in there. The OEM parts are made by DAYCO

I'd also suggest a Gates heavy duty belt.

 

[jbyrd78]

Did this job last summer, here are the Dayco products I used. I got all my stuff from Advanced Auto. If I remember correctly, I ordered online and did store pickup b/c it was cheaper.
Have a friend on standby, to help with the belt b/c you are limited space working from below due to the beefy sway bar.

 

[04UZJ100]

Did this job last summer, here are the Dayco products I used. I got all my stuff from Advanced Auto. If I remember correctly, I ordered online and did store pickup b/c it was cheaper.
Have a friend on standby, to help with the belt b/c you are limited space working from below due to the beefy sway bar.

View attachment 3009651

I’d want Japanese parts

 

[jbyrd78]

I’d want Japanese parts

Dayco is the OEM part maker for the belt, tensioner, and pulley on the 200 series. I'll have to look, but the OEM one had "Dayco" stamped on the back, I'll have to look. If it does, I'll snap a pic and post it.

 

[04UZJ100]

Dayco is the OEM part maker for the belt, tensioner, and pulley on the 200 series.

Got it. OEM parts are 100% made in Japan. I’d try and source Japanese made parts.

 

[tbisaacs]

Got it. OEM parts are 100% made in Japan. I’d try and source Japanese made parts.

My 100% original, OEM tensioner had a Dayco stamp on it.

 

[04UZJ100]

My 100% original, OEM tensioner had a Dayco stamp on it.

I’m not debating whether they’re Dayco or not. I’m stating that I prefer Japanese made parts.

 

[bloc]

I’m not debating whether they’re Dayco or not. I’m stating that I prefer Japanese made parts.

Are we sure all OE parts bought here in america are Japanese-made? Especially for parts that go on engines that were put on US-built vehicles like the tundra?

I do have a front and rear wheel bearing on the shelf and both are labeled made in japan, despite being the same parts for tundras (as far as I know). Doesn't necessarily mean everything is like that though.. As it is oil filters not sourced directly from Japan have been produced in Thailand for quite a while. Lots of hang wringing about this fact on the 80-forum and other toyota boards years ago. And a surprising lack of destroyed engines everywhere, years later.

 

[ToothDr]

Are we sure all OE parts bought here in america are Japanese-made? Especially for parts that go on engines that were put on US-built vehicles like the tundra?

I do have a front and rear wheel bearing on the shelf and both are labeled made in japan, despite being the same parts for tundras (as far as I know). Doesn't necessarily mean everything is like that though.. As it is oil filters not sourced directly from Japan have been produced in Thailand for quite a while. Lots of hang wringing about this fact on the 80-forum and other toyota boards years ago. And a surprising lack of destroyed engines everywhere, years later.

The only parts I’ve come across with my 1993 land cruiser that were OEM and made in the USA have been fan/ac belts, wiper inserts. Previous versions of the oil filter were made in Japan but are now made in Thailand. My 2021 had a window sticker upon purchase that stated 100% Japan sourced parts. I cant speak for previous years.

 

[CharlieS]

My 100% original, OEM tensioner had a Dayco stamp on it.

Same here. 2013 oem and factory Toyota replacement both had Dayco cast into them.

 

[bloc]

Same here. 2013 oem and factory Toyota replacement both had Dayco cast into them.

You don’t happen to remember whether the replacement was Japanese built do you?

Edit: google images of the box from the part number indicate USA made.

 

[tominboise]

I did this a month ago and used OEM parts (idler, belt and tensionser). The tensioner was marked Dayco in the toyota Box. I can't speak for who made the belt or idler. The OEM stuff lasted 14 years and looked fine when I replaced it. I pulled the skid plates off and did the change from the bottom. It was a bit fiddly but not impossible by any stretch.

 

[jbyrd78]

I’m not debating whether they’re Dayco or not. I’m stating that I prefer Japanese made parts.

So what brand of Japanese made parts are you planning to use for the belt, idler, and tensioner?

 

[04UZJ100]

So what brand of Japanese made parts are you planning to use for the belt, idler, and tensioner?

Will order from IMPEX or PartsOuq

 

[Bendcruiser]

Speaking of belt and tensioner. I'm getting them replaced this week at 56,000 miles. Chirping when the engine warms up and I figured might as well replace the belt too. My local mechanic is doing the work. Any experience with what this should cost would be appreciated?