great thread and i very much appreciate your help!!!
Builds Sentimental Restoration of Family 1990 FJ62 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter LCnAZ
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- Thread starter
- #142
For what it's worth, gents: I had to invest in some additional education on paint finish restoration/management. I failed to notice a bird bomb on the hood for almost 24 hours. Why important? Because the darn crap eats right into the clear coat! Had to research on Youtube, invest in a dual action polisher and assorted items and materials. Worked like a champ to remove the bird damage, and I even mitigated a few other clear coat imperfections.
So armed with this new capability, I dove into some work and detailing of our other vehicles.
I also discovered an excellent synthetic wax in this process. You may have noticed that I originally used Klasse acrylic sealant. That stuff is really durable, but a bitch to use if the ambient temp is over 80F. After compounding up to mirror glaze using Meguiars products, I finished with their "Ultimate" synthetic polymer wax. It is just the opposite of the Klasse in terms of ease of use; incredibly easy to apply and polish off. Incredibly slippery!
So armed with this new capability, I dove into some work and detailing of our other vehicles.
I also discovered an excellent synthetic wax in this process. You may have noticed that I originally used Klasse acrylic sealant. That stuff is really durable, but a bitch to use if the ambient temp is over 80F. After compounding up to mirror glaze using Meguiars products, I finished with their "Ultimate" synthetic polymer wax. It is just the opposite of the Klasse in terms of ease of use; incredibly easy to apply and polish off. Incredibly slippery!
[QUOTE="LCnAZ, post: 12384361, member: 25718"
So armed with this new capability, I dove into some work and detailing of our other vehicles.
[/QUOTE]
....and discovered that I needed to restore *them* as well as I had my 62....
Glad you're having fun. Post up pics of how it looks with the new shiny wax. Last pics were from Mt Lemmon.
Glenn in Marana
So armed with this new capability, I dove into some work and detailing of our other vehicles.
[/QUOTE]
....and discovered that I needed to restore *them* as well as I had my 62....
Glad you're having fun. Post up pics of how it looks with the new shiny wax. Last pics were from Mt Lemmon.
Glenn in Marana
- Thread starter
- #144
....and discovered that I needed to restore *them* as well as I had my 62....
Glad you're having fun. Post up pics of how it looks with the new shiny wax. Last pics were from Mt Lemmon.
Glenn in Marana
[/QUOTE]
The "new" shiny will not photograph differently; they look the same. The new stuff use/application is much better/easiser, and it feels much more slippery to the touch. Comes with very good performance reviews. I also clay barred various parts of the vehicle. I had not noticed the need before. I presumed that the slight surface grit feel here and there was just imperfections. It was tiny bits of debris adhering to the surface, not in the surface. Learning that the silly simple and easy task of clay barring is the fix for this also changed the touch/feel as part of the polish process.
The lack of visible difference is because the paint job is new. I also attacked daughter's 2016 black Rogue. It was a mess. I first clay barred the whole vehicle. I then worked on clear coat stains such as bug and birds, then used Meguiars 205 Mirror Glaze polish with the DA polisher to remove visible shallow scratches. It also polishes out the billions of micro scratches. The before and after on a black vehicle is amazing. The Meguiars synthetic wax is the final finish. She was home recovering from viral meningitis. Feeling rather helpless, this was my therapy.
I also learned on Sunday that this slight grit can be "seasonal." Two of our cars I had just detailed in this manner were parked out on the driveway, but not under a tree. There is a mesquite tree immediately to the south. Sunday's big southerly wind blew sap droplets all over the upwind side of the cars. lol Simple to remove with a microfiber towel and a bit of instant detailer spray. No clay bar necessary.
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I know this is an older post but I'm just now reading through it and wanted to add my $0.02 on these cover craft windshield shade things. My dad bought me one years ago and it has held up to the California sun for about 10 years and I think it looks about as good as it did on the day he gave it to me. Since they are so well fit, they can be a little tough to get into place if you have a dash mat. Also, since they are pretty rigid, they can take up quite a bit of space on the floorboards. I always drop mine behind my seat and my kids complain about it getting in the way.
I just used the link that @LCnAZ provided and the gold version is $22 on Amazon. The blue and green model are $60. I don't know if the $22 is a short term sort of thing so I just snagged one for my new FJ62. Thanks @LCnAZ.
UPDATE - 2 minutes after purchasing the screen shade for $22, I was getting ready to close my internet browser tab and see that it is now back to $54.72. Dang I guess you've got to strike while the iron is hot! I should go buy a lotto ticket because I'm feeling lucky right now.
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That's funny and I have a similar experience....I also bought the Cover Craft windshield shade after reading through LC's thread 1-2 months ago. I found the blue version including shipping for only $16 on Amazon while the gold and green were considerably higher...directly from Cover Craft....couldn't believe it was so cheap and the quality is top notch. I went back and looked later and the same blue ones were selling for $60. Must be a timing thing based on some algorithm or something.
What a gorgeous Cruiser! Great work.
- Thread starter
- #148
Thank you for the kind words.
- Thread starter
- #149
Headed up to Desert Toy Shop in Mesa next week for two full days to do a handful of things. Valves adjusted and pre and post leak down tests. Possibly some other items depending on how these things go. Probably verify Throttle Position Cable/Shifting.
Tune-up completed here in Tucson this past weekend. Went with NGK plug wires, Denso iridium plugs, new PCV valve and grommet, new dist cap and rotor. Already done fuel filter and timing.
Tune-up completed here in Tucson this past weekend. Went with NGK plug wires, Denso iridium plugs, new PCV valve and grommet, new dist cap and rotor. Already done fuel filter and timing.
- Thread starter
- #150
Leak down test and valve adjustment completed this week. I planned on a Mud-friendly dealer in Phoenix, but I couldn't make the logistics work with our travel. Drove the two hours on the freeway at 60/61 mph. Got 15.33 mpg. That's about as good as it ever got on the highway.
Leak down numbers showed more leakage than 50K miles ago, but comfortably within Toyota specs. Valves required minimal adjustment (tighten). The tech/mechanic is massively experienced with older Land Cruisers. His report on the engine and general condition was glowing...to say the least. This provides good information to help with other decisions....knowing that the engine core is still strong. The comments were "...all indicates a well-seasoned motor" and "This is about the nicest FJ62 out there, today." Made my day (knock on wood).
Also confirmed via oil dye that it has typical leaks for a 60-series, but all fairly modest. Watch the levels as always.
For what it's worth, I had to drive it in stop and go rush hour traffic in 112 degree Arizona weather for about 30 minutes yesterday before reaching the freeway. After a few long waits at traffic lights, the temp had risen to about halfway between mid-gauge and the white tic below red line. I finally just dropped a couple of windows and dumped the heat with the heater on full. It took about 30 seconds for the temp to drop back to mid gauge...and it stabilized there for the rest of the trip. It's nice to know the Mishimoto and other mods can handle such hot weather, but I won't be doing that on a regular basis! By the way, the air conditioning was solid cold at all times thanks to the condenser fan.
Next up is a Justice Bros. full fuel system service. Too much carbon visible during the valve adjustment.
Following that is full brake job to replace the master cylinder, flush brake system, and new OEM rotors and pads...concurrent with front knuckle job.
Leak down numbers showed more leakage than 50K miles ago, but comfortably within Toyota specs. Valves required minimal adjustment (tighten). The tech/mechanic is massively experienced with older Land Cruisers. His report on the engine and general condition was glowing...to say the least. This provides good information to help with other decisions....knowing that the engine core is still strong. The comments were "...all indicates a well-seasoned motor" and "This is about the nicest FJ62 out there, today." Made my day (knock on wood).
Also confirmed via oil dye that it has typical leaks for a 60-series, but all fairly modest. Watch the levels as always.
For what it's worth, I had to drive it in stop and go rush hour traffic in 112 degree Arizona weather for about 30 minutes yesterday before reaching the freeway. After a few long waits at traffic lights, the temp had risen to about halfway between mid-gauge and the white tic below red line. I finally just dropped a couple of windows and dumped the heat with the heater on full. It took about 30 seconds for the temp to drop back to mid gauge...and it stabilized there for the rest of the trip. It's nice to know the Mishimoto and other mods can handle such hot weather, but I won't be doing that on a regular basis! By the way, the air conditioning was solid cold at all times thanks to the condenser fan.
Next up is a Justice Bros. full fuel system service. Too much carbon visible during the valve adjustment.
Following that is full brake job to replace the master cylinder, flush brake system, and new OEM rotors and pads...concurrent with front knuckle job.
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- Thread starter
- #151
This weekend I'm gonna switch to 10W40 High Mileage Mobil 1 from Mobil 1 10W30 High Mileage to see if I can diminish the leaks.
I had a ton of Justice Brothers procedures done on Tuesday. I haven't been able to get out and evaluate fully, but it feels like it may have more pep in 2nd and 3rd.
Down side is that the shop didn't cover the fenders or ARB bumper despite me specifically admonishing them to do so and even bringing a furnie pad for them. They assured me that would take great care. I peaked around the corner later; no protection. Upon completion, I inspected the vehicle, and sure enough, they has splashed chemicals onto the top of the ARB bumper, chemically etching it. Of course it's brand new.
There were also scratches all over the bumper top on one side indicating a foot or dirty knee.
I immediately tried to clean it off with detailer (all I had), but no good. Brought shop owner out. He says he'll make it right...in writing on the invoice. Good man...with a tech who made a negligent decision.
I contacted the Justice Brothers factory to inquire about the chemicals. They were extremely helpful and informative. They were appalled at the lack of professionalism of the tech, and will be contacting the shop to retrain them and inform tell them to make sure they settle this to my satisfaction. He confirmed that the chemicals are pro-grade serious stuff, especially the ones in the 3-part emissions treatment. He confirmed that they most certainly would etch/damage a powder coat finish.
I brought it home and gave it my best to try to correct all this. I used the same technique used in correcting bird dropping stains in clear coat. Because powder coat is so hard, I even went with 1500 wet to start, working up through 3000, then Meguiars D300 compound, all using a DA polisher. I was able to mitigate the scratching pretty well, but the chemical etching is too deep to get out.
So...not sure how this will shake out yet.
- Thread starter
- #152
I have an update that is a surprise happy ending. Apparently the chemicals that stained the ARB bumper reacted in some way with the powder coat such that the stains could not be removed...until the reaction was complete and the spots cured. 72 hours later the stains were removable with Meguiars D300 compound (which was prviously unable to remove them even after wet sanding) with hand-polishing. The only "downside," if you can call it that, is that the D300 polishes the power coat out to a near-gloss finish. I will have to hand-polish the rest of the bumper now to match. I can live with that.
- Thread starter
- #153
Finally got the front knuckles and brake system overhauled. My local Firestone (Speedway and Pantano) has been doing the routine maintenance on our FJ62 for over a decade. During the past year of restoration I've challenged them with a lot of non-routine tasks...so they have gained deeper experience. This week they crossed a milestone as I had them overhaul the front knuckles and brake system. The knuckle kit, wheel bearings, Aisin ceramic pads, booster gasket, and master cylinder came from Cruiser Outfitters. Toyota rotors came from Camelback Toyota.
The manager assigns a specific young tech who is very thorough and loves the challenge to tackle Land Cruiser work, but the manager oversees diligently. I was able to observe progress on the first side, and I was very impressed with how organized the tech was in disassembling and laying out in order the many old parts. They also called me to verify in the FSM the proper type of grease...which they normally don't stock. They took two days to complete. It drives great and looks like a terrific job, too.
By the way, they also are careful to do the proper pre-load verification so that each wheel spins with the same resistance.
So, I can recommend them up to this level. They cannot do other specific tasks such as valve adjustment, but they've passed the knuckle rebuild test with flying colors. They are also the ones who did much of the other work listed here in the thread (flushes, radiator change, etc.). I prefer to provide many of the parts, as we have resources through this site with which they are not familiar. Costs are highly competitive with dealer and others! And they are excellent at standing behind their work! I can't promise a discount, but if you mention that you heard of them from their ih8mud customer, you might get one.
The manager assigns a specific young tech who is very thorough and loves the challenge to tackle Land Cruiser work, but the manager oversees diligently. I was able to observe progress on the first side, and I was very impressed with how organized the tech was in disassembling and laying out in order the many old parts. They also called me to verify in the FSM the proper type of grease...which they normally don't stock. They took two days to complete. It drives great and looks like a terrific job, too.
By the way, they also are careful to do the proper pre-load verification so that each wheel spins with the same resistance.
So, I can recommend them up to this level. They cannot do other specific tasks such as valve adjustment, but they've passed the knuckle rebuild test with flying colors. They are also the ones who did much of the other work listed here in the thread (flushes, radiator change, etc.). I prefer to provide many of the parts, as we have resources through this site with which they are not familiar. Costs are highly competitive with dealer and others! And they are excellent at standing behind their work! I can't promise a discount, but if you mention that you heard of them from their ih8mud customer, you might get one.
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You might consider using non-synthetic oil to slow the oil leaks. I run 15w-40 CJ-4 diesel oil in my '62.
- Thread starter
- #155
Thank you for the tip.
saw your build thread linked from one of the threads talking about BMW seat swap. I have the BMW E90 front seats too and recently got around to looking at the wiring. I have the two OEM seat harness (the big yellow) connector on one end and I extended the harness to run to a blue sea fuse box. My passenger seat seat seems to work fine. My driver seat does not. What is funny if I run power to the driver seat from a regulated power supply (grounds and pos feeding off he power supply) the driver seat works. I've read through some of the related threads, and I see where you have made a mod to cut power to the seat (15 second power run). Is the symptom...you have to power the seats within 15 second of power on? My seats feed off a power source that is always on, so I don't know if that make any difference. I was trying to troubleshoot things today on teh driver seat and it appears ground are good, the harness/wiring is good, the fuse box is good (ground on the seat harness grounds at the fuse box). having said all that it seems I'm may have the same issue (with the 15 second time out). Can you explain the setup on the driver seat about the power vs the seat computer ?
86aggie
SILVER Star
I have the same E90 seats. Having the power to the seat as always hot will prevent any adjustment, as the seat will 'time out', as you have found. You will need a switch to turn the power to the seat on/off. When you want to adjust the seat, give the seat power and start adjusting it with the buttons on the side. When you are done adjusting, turn the power off, until you want to adjust the seat again. This only applies to the 'adjustment' power, not the heating power. Heating power can be and should be constantly hot with ignition on.
The passenger seat does not have this 'time out' feature.
The passenger seat does not have this 'time out' feature.
Ok I hear you... I'm going to test that...this weekend (just because...) the location of my bluesea fuse panel makes it impossible for me to connect the power and then reach over to the switch to test it...in 15 sec. Just to ensure I have no other issues i"m going to put a toggle in line and then I can cycle the toggle on / off and grab the seat switch to validate it moves.
I don't have my notes but I recall I'm powering tow main large POS wires in the seat harness and two main grounds in the seat harness. I assume you are killing power to only one of the POS wires or both? DO you recall which one? I likely will be able to see what works as soon as I can validate with a little test jumper using a toggle.
I did see in a thread on a four-runner web site, that they were talking about these seats and someone mentioned you could feed one of the wires a constant 5 volts and this issue of "timing out" would go away. I don't know if thats been validated by anyone. I posted a question there to see , but so far I have not seen a response.
I don't recall what my notes show offhand as mentioned but I do know the major movement of the seats I have work. I'm not sure if the heat works (certainly it does not if it requires an external swtich), becuase I've not installed one. Offhand I don't recall the details but there are a couple of different switches along the side portion of the bottom of the seat. I got started on the physical install some time ago but then have let the truck sit for a while and I"m trying to run down the stuff that needs resolution for my sanity, at least for now.
Thanks for the feedback
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