Semi-Float Rear Axle Question (1 Viewer)

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The diff plug is protected by a raised edge on the housing that encircles the plug. That raised edge can get peened over from hitting rocks making it difficult to get a socket wrench onto a standard hex plug. Using an allen wrench on the plug you show doesn’t have that problem.

I agree. That is why they were created and a more sensible design.
 
Curious to know thoughts on the plug in the image ? Seems a HEX is better all around.

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My suggestion was aimed primarily at removing OEM plugs that have been on an axle housing for a long time and can't be easily removed. But that type of plug is better as a replacement.
 
My suggestion was aimed primarily at removing OEM plugs that have been on an axle housing for a long time and can't be easily removed. But that type of plug is better as a replacement.

Thanks. I agree. I had my issues with the 15/16 threads that were shallow. Someone smart designed the hex head one. Actually, my first cruiser required a weld as the PO rounded off the drain plug points. I will always use the hex head.
 
Thanks found a spec for 51 ft/lbs from another thread but was a Haynes manual for 80 series I believe. Anyway 14 mm nut torque on a sor scale says 45-55 so It’s gotta be close. Loctite
 
Thanks found a spec for 51 ft/lbs from another thread but was a Haynes manual for 80 series I believe. Anyway 14 mm nut torque on a sor scale says 45-55 so It’s gotta be close. Loctite
The 40 series Chassis and Body manual does not list specific torque for the fill/drain plugs for the differential. You have to get that from the table of general torque values for fastener grades and sizes, in the back of the manual.

The 80 series manual lists the torque for differential fill/drain plugs as 39-ft·lbs.
 

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