Secondary Pulsed Air Injection Valve (1 Viewer)

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Oct 10, 2009
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Hey yall. I was tinkering around under the hood and decided to take the distributer cap off to see if it needed to be cleaned on the inside:bang: I think this somehow led to a strange clicking noise in the secondary pulsed air injection valve:confused: or at least thats what the diagram under the hood called it. once the engine heated up the noise went away but what really annoys me is the really low rough idle, about 700 rpm's, and pretty crappy acceleration. Any ideas? And yes im new here so bring on the :flipoff2:..
 
did you disconnect the battery? this kind of idle sounds like when the ECU is learning to run after a "hard re-boot" of that nature. otherwise what else did you do? other option is a big air leak in the plastic hose between the MAF sensor and the manifold or maybe your CCV valve and or hose came loose? dunno if popping the lid on the dizzy will get you any funkyness. unless you didn't get it back on right, or a plug wire is not seated all the way?:meh:

the PAIR system makes that noise on my rig every cold start, has no effect (I think) on the idle.
 
I did disconnect the battery just so there was no chance of shocking myself. I made sure the distributer cap went back on straight and all is good there. Honestly I really dont thing that the distributer could cause a problem all the way over there. The two dont even have anything to do with each other as far as i can see. I just thought that it was weird that it just started after i removed the distributer cap. What about the slow rough idle. The truck has had this problem since I got it about a year and a half ago but it just seemed to be worse this time. Could it be a problem with a vacuum. I read a couple of other threads and one said that they had a problem with a bad fuel injector and the other fixed it with a vacuum overhall. thanks for the help.
 
That loud clicking noise from the PAIR valve is normal. Even louder on cold starts.
 
That loud clicking noise from the PAIR valve is normal. Even louder on cold starts.

I've never heard it before but i dont normally start the engine with the hood up and run around to see whats going on either. thanks
 
I did disconnect the battery

that's the idle "problem"

Honestly I really dont thing that the distributer could cause a problem all the way over there. The two dont even have anything to do with each other as far as i can see. I just thought that it was weird that it just started after i removed the distributer cap.

they're not related I'm pretty sure, but the idle is, see above

What about the slow rough idle. The truck has had this problem since I got it about a year and a half ago but it just seemed to be worse this time. Could it be a problem with a vacuum. I read a couple of other threads and one said that they had a problem with a bad fuel injector and the other fixed it with a vacuum overhall. thanks for the help

keep it simple; check for solid connections at your plugs, check the condition of the plugs and wires before you go throwing dough at the problem, find a copy of the FSM and do the simple checks first. then look around for vacc problems, maybe last thing is check your injectors (I think you have to pull the top half of the manifold to access them).

you are in the right place for ideas and advice, I have seen nothing but helpful people here. when you have ten posts (I think?) you can add signature info for your location and stuff, maybe give everyone a better idea of where you are and what you have to work with. edit, I see you did that already over there<<
 
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you are in the right place for ideas and advice, I have seen nothing but helpful people here. when you have ten posts (I think?) you can add signature info for your location and stuff, maybe give everyone a better idea of where you are and what you have to work with. edit, I see you did that already over there<<

Thanks so much. I agree. Ive found so much on this forum that i could not even begin to know where to look elsewhere.:clap:
 
question for you tblume...I am considering removing PAIR system from my '94. In my search for info, I saw you were planning to do so (gotmud's Disable EGR thread) and then in this post it seems that didn't happen. Was that for a specific reason or just haven't gotten around to it?

I apologize if this is considered crossing the hijacking line...
 
question for you tblume...I am considering removing PAIR system from my '94. In my search for info, I saw you were planning to do so (gotmud's Disable EGR thread) and then in this post it seems that didn't happen. Was that for a specific reason or just haven't gotten around to it?

I apologize if this is considered crossing the hijacking line...

not yet got around to it; low priority, weather, single car garage (full of other stuff):meh:

yotadude; how are you getting along with the idle problem?
 
yotadude; how are you getting along with the idle problem?[/QUOTE]

The clicking noise went away and i was looking around on FAQ and found where some were adjusting the throttle cables. I did this and brought the rpm's up 100 to 200 depending on the current engine temp. Thanks for checking back on me.
 
So the check engine light is on but the car is running fine. I went to autozone to use the decoder and remembered that they wont work on something as old as a 1994. They gave me two little keys and said that there is a place that i can put them and when the lights flach on the dash that they will flash in a certain order and i can look this order up and decode the problem that way.:confused: I feel like an idiot so if you guys wouldnt mind telling me if hes pulling my leg that would be nice.:meh: Thanks.
 

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