Secondary Air Injection Valve cleaning? (1 Viewer)

[sdnative]

I have the intake off right now to fix the engine valley coolant leak. The air injection valves are a bit dirty and have some carbon buildup. Is there a way to clean these before I put them back on? Can I remove the valves from the manifold and clean with carb cleaner? Given the difficulty in getting these off I don't wan't to have to do it again anytime soon.

I searched the various Tundra forums and found some good info, but nothing specifically about cleaning and re-using. The was a reference to a tundrasolutions thread but the page is no longer available.

 

[sdnative]

I have also attached some pictures of my engine valley in case anyone is interested

Before and after cover removed.

Also, the original sealant was a gray where the 1282B is black. So definitely not the same stuff.

And now would be an ideal time to extend the breathers if desired. There are three of them there, one is hidden behind the bracket.

 

[Ratchey]

I have also attached some pictures of my engine valley in case anyone is interested

Before and after cover removed.

Also, the original sealant was a gray where the 1282B is black. So definitely not the same stuff.

And now would be an ideal time to extend the breathers if desired. There are three of them there, one is hidden behind the bracket.

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This is a good time to think about doing the bypass kit. I started throwing codes when everything was replaced. Not sure if the valves got stuck open from stuff being knocked loose, but there was no way I was going back in there to remove and reinstall them again.

 

[sdnative]

This is a good time to think about doing the bypass kit. I started throwing codes when everything was replaced. Not sure if the valves got stuck open from stuff being knocked loose, but there was no way I was going back in there to remove and reinstall them again.

Not really interested in installing the bypass kit. I read somewhere on one of the tundra or tacoma forums that the ECU is getting updated (when I am not sure) and the air injection pump will run at other times besides cold startup. Apparently this renders the bypass less effective or not effective. Not sure if the LC will be getting the same update.

 

[sdnative]

Pics of the inside of the valve manifold and reed valve. I am not able to open the valve as I believe I need pressurized air (whatever psi the pumps puts out) and supply 12V to the electrical connection.

 

[Cruisin911]

Simple solution to the ECU update is to not get it done. Clearly its been 7 years on your vehicle and had zero impact. Why update it now just to remove the possibility of bypassing it?

If you are intent on keeping the system intact, my advice is to replace the whole valve unit. Compared to the pumps, its relatively cheap and even if you do get it cleaned well, it still won't have the longevity of a brand new part.

OR, bypass the whole thing. Ive been running my bypass for over a year now. Easy day.

 

[arnott1t]

I had these go on my LX. Started by pulling cleaning and lubing them up. Worked good for awhile then threw codes and went into limp. Pulled and replaced with some amazon replacements... one had a bad electrical head.... sent them back... bypassed... no problems since. These are a pain to get at and change. I wouldn't mind them but throwing the rig into a total limp when they fail open sucks....

 

[sdnative]

Not really interested in the bypass at this time. Maybe if it starts throwing codes. To risky with CA emissions, etc.

While it looks bad, that's probably normal for parts that see exhaust gases. I understand the failure mode to be debris from the pump (foam) dislodging and causing the valve to get stuck open, or moisture getting sucked in the pump, blowing up to the valve and causing the value to stick shut. There is an updated design pump inlet that is supposed to really help with this for the Tundra. I will look into that (EDIT: tundra PN 176210S012 <-- this is the Tundra part).

I think I'll just clean it up reasonably well and put it back in. I will also check the pump for signs of the foam deteriorating, moisture, etc. If the system starts acting up in the future I'll deal with it then. By that time I'll probably have forgotten what a pain it was to remove