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second break - please help (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter eric griffin
- Start date
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Probably not related.
Search efi fuse.
Wish you were near Atlanta, I'd help you out.
Search efi fuse.
Wish you were near Atlanta, I'd help you out.
One thing that stopped my engine from firing up was the cam position sensor plug being not plugged in completely. It started as an intermittent issue and finely ended in a full blown no start. For some reason that plug can be very difficult to fully engage the lock. I'm guessing when the dealer did the timing belt the tech didn't get it locked completely and over time it worked its way loose. The way I found it was from the trouble code and then I just wiggled the wires and it feel right apart. Have you checked for codes yet?
- Thread starter
- #4
im on it - in fact, im just going to pull all the fuses and check them
By the way, the plug noted above is located on the driver side front of the engine right on the front of the plastic timing belt inspection cover. EVERYONE, CHECK YOU PLUGS to make sure they are fully locked!
- Thread starter
- #6
jiggle everything with a wire connected to it - got it.
thanks
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- Thread starter
- #7
i cant check trouble codes here at my house alone can i ? ........... thought i needed some gizmo to connect to some port on the car for that. like the one they have at auto parts stores ?
if im wrong please let me know - im too busy jiggling wires and checking fuses to search threads
- Thread starter
- #8
This seems to be mentionable but i dunno how i could have drove here if a missing fuse was an issue
OK ..... so .... my bad car week continues.
After admitting ignorance to the multitude of advice on here that the T junctions in the cooling lines should have probably been my first replacement after buying this 99 LX with 200k miles on it; and them busting on me and costing me a couple hundrend bucks to fix last minute and several lost days of work this week...........
.....after picking my LX up from the mechanic that replaced those broken cooling line parts yesterday, I drove the LX from the mechanic to the grocery store, grocery store back to my house - both times it started up fine (as it always has, started right up on the second or third turnover). I parked it in my driveway and did not get in it until today / just now.
Tried to start it and it will not. the battery is fine, it's turning over as fast as it ever did ... but will not kick in and start up.
I realize this is usually a question that is WAY to broad to answer however ... was thinking that, based on the data available which is that, until yesterday, ive never seen or heard anything symptom or warning of such a problem coming on; and the fact that it started immedicately after someone was working on the cooling system lines that busted a T joint ... well, maybe was hoping someone had insight as to what in that process could have caused this and/or maybe if this just suddenly happening without any warning or symptoms leading up to it is an identifiable problem in itself.
Any thoughts or ideas appreciated.
Had not one but TWO first dates lined up this weekend ... one of them friggin gorgeous and ... well, this could change my LC/LX enthusiasm here - this isnt just missing work anymore
help please !
It is supposed to be like that
UBER your 1st date your place and have her help you wrench on your truck, then cook her dinner. If she sticks around for breakfast, that will confirm if she's worth dating a second time.
Edit: OK...humor set aside and focusing on the Technical side of this thread:
Start simple first:
Key fob battery: Is your key fob battery dead: does your security light still flash after you put the key in?
Check Engine Room Fuses: Covered Box Next to battery. Under the cover of the box is a diagram of all the fuse and relay locations.
Check Immobilizer Circuit: Is it functioning properly: read here: My immobilizer fix
Edit: OK...humor set aside and focusing on the Technical side of this thread:
Start simple first:
Key fob battery: Is your key fob battery dead: does your security light still flash after you put the key in?
Check Engine Room Fuses: Covered Box Next to battery. Under the cover of the box is a diagram of all the fuse and relay locations.
Check Immobilizer Circuit: Is it functioning properly: read here: My immobilizer fix
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Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Keep the thread to tech please. It doesn't sound like you have a CEL, so may be no code to read, but worth it to pick up a cheap code reader off Amazon for ~$15. I'd look at the immobilizer also, another good thread here on it.
Its not getting fuel.
My money is on a clogged fuel filter, when the tow truck picked it up/dropped it off it went at a extreme angle to go onto the flatbed and sediment from that moveda round, got mixed into the fuel and clogged the filter.
Bum a ride to AutoZone, if you do not have wrenchs buy them when you get the new fuel filter.
The fuel filter is on the drivers fender. Takes 15min to replace, a new filter costs $15.
My money is on a clogged fuel filter, when the tow truck picked it up/dropped it off it went at a extreme angle to go onto the flatbed and sediment from that moveda round, got mixed into the fuel and clogged the filter.
Bum a ride to AutoZone, if you do not have wrenchs buy them when you get the new fuel filter.
The fuel filter is on the drivers fender. Takes 15min to replace, a new filter costs $15.
That’s a good place to start. Just be careful with that green clip on the fuel line. Break it and you will have a costly repair.
- Thread starter
- #14
UBER your 1st date your place and have her help you wrench on your truck, then cook her dinner. If she sticks around for breakfast, that will confirm if she's worth dating a second time.
Edit: OK...humor set aside and focusing on the Technical side of this thread:
Start simple first:
Key fob battery: Is your key fob battery dead: does your security light still flash after you put the key in?
Check Engine Room Fuses: Covered Box Next to battery. Under the cover of the box is a diagram of all the fuse and relay locations.
Check Immobilizer Circuit: Is it functioning properly: read here: My immobilizer fix
I didnt mention this because i thought it irrelevent but my set of keys fell off my counter immediately before i tried to start the car yesterday, the key split open, and the inner piece of the key that actually has the buttons and probably the battery fell out as the thick part of the key, the case for the inner part with the buttons, is cracked and i didnt want to lose any pieces.
I could not see any lights in the dash indicating security or immobilizer issues and i didnt think a 99 vehicle had either anyway... so i dismissed the idea.
Is this my problem ?
If the key guts, (remote buttons) fell out and you didn’t put it back in, then YES, that is probably the problem. There is a security transponder in the key that if it isn’t very close to the ignition when you try to start the truck, it won’t start. It will just crank over. On the Land Cruiser, the security light is on the clock display. It flashes red. It will turn off when you insert the key, or will after a couple of seconds. If you put the key in and the security light doesn’t go off, the truck isn’t recognizing the key/security transponder.
- Thread starter
- #17
- Thread starter
- #18
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
May want to post your findings here to close out the thread so it will be helpful for those that search and find it.
Cannon88
In the duck blind...
My money is on the immobilizer issue. You can do a simple test to see if that’s the culprit. That link above should tell you the steps. Good luck!
