Seat belt light in 1982 BJ42 on (1 Viewer)

[kling-on]

Ok so I hooked up the seat belt and the buzzer goes off when I belt up but the light doesn't ?? Does everyone else's stay on as you drive ??? Is the there a timer relay I need to ck ??? If so were

 

[David*BJ70]

So you start and drive the truck ? Brake Light function properly (dash) ?

Did you interchange the brake light and seat bealt light wires ? Silly question but worth to ask / consider...

 

[kling-on]

Ya brake light works correctly ... This pic was a about 1 hour into 3 hr drive

 

[bj40green]

I can't find a buzzer connected to the seat belt warning system. Just an indicator light.
Diagram is from the FSM 36044 40 series 1981 and later.

Maybe a PO added a buzzer?
I know that on my '78 BJ40 there is a vacuum warning buzzer. And when I say buzzer I mean BUZZER! A really loud mechanical buzzer, sounds almost as a horn.
Did it ever work? What's the history?

Rudi

 

[kling-on]

nope allways been on same with my water in fuel light but its under the dash .... i just pulled the bulb there going to get back to basic repairs now that I got all the big stuff done

 

[cuencanolenny]

Rudi, I am closing in on finishing the wiring on the '79. It has the same wiring diagram you showed above for the seat belt. I was doing a functional test and the light just comes on. When I insert the buckle into the floor mounted unit the light stays on. Any ideas?

 

[bj40green]

Rudi, I am closing in on finishing the wiring on the '79. It has the same wiring diagram you showed above for the seat belt. I was doing a functional test and the light just comes on. When I insert the buckle into the floor mounted unit the light stays on. Any ideas?

Or it's the switch..... or it's the relay.
The switch is NC (Normally Closed) or a NO (Normally Open). The diagram is not clear about this.
1. Does the voltage on pin 4 (Black) change when you insert the buckle? 12V to 0V or the other way around from 0V to 12V.
2. Do you hear the relay click? If it's a tiny relay put a finger on it. You should feel it.

Rudi

 

[cuencanolenny]

I will have to check these things. For my functional test I did not have the relay connected, rather power in and ground. I "thought" a relay simply provided a better circuit for power. As in using relays at the headlights instead of relying on the 18 gauge wire that is typically installed which routes the power through the headlight switch so we use relays drawing power from the battery or alternator and use the small gauge wire to send the signal.

Little frustrated at the end of the day. Everything is completed and so I connected the positive terminal but only touched the negative cable to the battery. With nothing on there should be no spark, I got spark. So tomorrow I have to start running my circuits to see what is drawing power. Lesson learned from all this? Never, and I mean never, remove a wiring harness that is working perfectly fine from one vehicle to another. If you are happy with the harness, buy another one. Second lesson learned, Never and I mean NEVER, install an aftermarket fuse panel anywhere near where the original was located. There is just no room to work with.

 

[bj40green]

A relay is a remote controlled switch but a relay can also reverse the function of the action switch.
My guess is that's the situation here because you don't need a relay for an indicator light.

Rudi

 

[cuencanolenny]

Thanks Rudi. I determined this morning that the "issue" with sparking at the negative terminal was that my headlight switch was not in the off position. However, I do have some searching to do as while I have headlights, tail lights, horn and three of four turn signals blinking (right rear), I do not have power to the starter. And while my functional test on the E-brake worked well when I did connect the battery the light was on, with the E-brake closing the switch. When I lifted it the light got dim and I heard a pop, probably a fuse.

 

[cuencanolenny]

A relay is a remote controlled switch but a relay can also reverse the function of the action switch.
My guess is that's the situation here because you don't need a relay for an indicator light.

Rudi

I forgot to mention that after you posted about the relay switch I googled relay switch to educate myself about their function. Also, another person responded to the issue regarding hazard switches and noted that "toyota philosophy is to ground at the switch as opposed to American philosophy is to power the switch."

 

[cuencanolenny]

A relay is a remote controlled switch but a relay can also reverse the function of the action switch.
My guess is that's the situation here because you don't need a relay for an indicator light.

Rudi

Rudi, I have the rig running, but no windshield wiper motor. Today I took it to a local fellow. Not sure what he did, but I did see a soldering gun in use. Anyway, it operated, two speeds. I got it home, and plugged into the harness and it started running. Just for a few moments and stopped. It shouldn't have started running. A frustrating part of the parts vs diagram is that I am dealing with blue/yellow, which is out of the washer motor. The switch provides ground when you rotate it. That works fine. The power into the washer motor and wiper motor is via a blue wire, no power into the switch itself. However, the switch plug contains the blue/yellow, blue/white, blue/red and blue/black wires. It contains a black/white and then below that, in the middle of the six plug connector is a black wire. That is not shown on the wiring diagram. I believe I made a mistake in testing my new wires to the plug at the cowl by tying the black into the blue power wire so that I would read 12volts at the blue/red and blue/black connections as well as the blue. I reviewed another Mud post where the fellow was testing the motor and said to use the blue wire for power and then GROUND the blue/red and blue/black to test for speeds and never both at the same time. I did not blow a fuse. I took the motor off and to the bench and applied power and ground per above, nothing, zip, nada. I am now "presuming" that I should disconnect the power to the black wire at the switch connector and have only power to the washer and wiper motor connectors. Somewhere else I read a "tip" that Toyota philosophy is ground at the switch. Regardless, I won't be able to go down the mountain to pick up my USA visitor on Saturday, can't take the chance without wipers. But it confounds me that this makes at least twice, once by me some six weeks ago, and today at the shop where the motor runs, two speeds, and then won't do anything. It is like it has a dead zone. So my question is this, what the heck is the black wire in switch harness for?

 

[bj40green]

So my question is this, what the heck is the black wire in switch harness for?

Have a look at the "simple" diagram. You'll have to understand how it works. 12V to the motor, Low or High to ground.
So far it's simple. Now comes the "parking" position. When you push the wiper switch in the "off" position you remove the ground to the motor.
But...... the wiper blades have to be in the horizontal position and that's where the parking switch ( the disc inside the motor) has to do his job. The black wire provides ground until the disc is in the "parking" position and then the gap in that disc disconnects.
To make it it more complicated..... If you remove the ground a motor will run a little more until it stops spinning.
To activate an immediately stop, that same disc also makes a short over the motor so it stops "on the spot".
And that's why there are so many wires for a simple motor. BTW; the immediately stop function is not shown in this picture.

So.... 12V to blue, Negative to black and a second negative to Low or high.
The "park" function works only with the Low speed. If you remove the negative from the High it will stop and run out.
If you remove the negative from the Low it will continue running until it's in the park position.

Capice?

Rudi

 

[cuencanolenny]

Rudi, thank you so much. You made it perfectly clear to this old tooling guy. My friend arrives from the USA tomorrow at noon. I will take the van service down the mountain. I will have use of the vehicle up here as long as it isn't raining. He will stay a week and then I will get back with the program. As you know, these "hobby vehicles" can be a real pain. But with your help on electrical I have managed to keep a few hairs on my head. Thank you, I will have to remove the ash tray, radio to access the switch and plug. I had "hoped" I had that sorted out so that if/when I got my wiper motor working I would only have to deal with the cowl plug. Such wishful thinking. The motor, even with my incorrect wiring, should have sat there and run until the brushes were worn out. Should always run on the bench with power to blue and ground to hi or lo. It doesn't. The armature checks good on the three inspection test (180* on commutator, bar to bar and bar to shaft), the brushes have lots of life left in them, no breaks or damage on the comm, the gearhead is fine. That leaves only wires and I think I will replace them. I know that I went crazy finding a bad wire in the cowl to switch harness, so maybe I have a similar issue where a wire is weak, damaged, inside and creates the illusion of a dead spot.

 

[cuencanolenny]

Okay, I have 12V power coming from the "Wiper" location on my fuse panel. I combined it with the red power wire from my new windshield washer and the blue wire to the wiper motor. I also added a wire to the black in the switch plug. That wire needs to come out of the splice. If I follow what you are saying, my white/black is already running to ground so I don't need to do anything there. However, I need to run a wire from the black on the switch plug to both the blue/white and blue/red or do I just run a wire from the black to ground and the switch takes care of what is grounded? Since the plug at the cowl has four terminals vs six at the switch plug and they are blue, blue/white, blue/red and blue/black I'm not sure what I am supposed to do with the wire coming from the black. I "assumed" that the black/white at the switch plug would just run directly to ground as that is what is showing and that is what I did. I ran the negative wire from my new washer motor to the blue/yellow terminal at the switch plug and that works when the knob is twisted.

 

[bj40green]

Does this help?

Somewhere in the back of my mind it says that there is a wiring screw up. I think it was @Coolerman who discovered this. I think the Blue/White and Blue/Black are wrongly named in the diagram. let's see if I can find this out on Coolermans website.

EDIT: I found it !!!!
** Toyota Wiring Mystery
While looking at the schematic and actual wiring, I became confused with the lo speed wiring. I drew out the wiper switch, park switch and motor connections on paper. I understood the Park function wiring and the Hi speed function wiring but the lo speed made no sense! If you go strictly by the wiring colors and their positions on the wiper switch, park switch and motor then the low speed would not work! Of course it does so what was up? Long story short, for whatever reason the connector on the windshield between the harness and the motor has the LB and the LW wires reversed in the connector! See Fig 7A above. Once I took that into account, everything fell in to place. On the drawings that follow I have drawn them as they actually are to keep it OEM... So don't email about the 'crossed' wires!

It's on this page: Wiper Wiring Science

Rudi

 

[bj40green]

Okay, forget the picture in post #13. That "simple" picture was made from the FSM.
Here is the new one with the actual wiring colors.
Note: Toyota "solved" the problem by crossing the two wires in the connector.

Rudi

 

[cuencanolenny]

Hi Rudi, I'm back to work. I rewired the wiper motor and tested it last night, I have two speeds. Of course I have had this before, but fingers crossed the motor is okay and now we are down to switch and cowl plug wiring. I get confused with all of this grounding. I can "see" the wiring connections on the switch and wire colors. The washer side is no problem, it works. I guess where I get confused is on the motor itself. You can see in the attached pictures where the wires are connected to the fingers which contact the disc inside the gearbox. From right to left (running downhill to the left) they are L, LB, B for ground. While my motor did not have the long ground wire on it, I added one and run it straight to ground. The LW & LR go to a motor brush, as does the L which runs under the commutator plate. Is all of this grounding going through the switch? Per your "corrected" diagram I should plug LW from the cowl/motor plug into LB on the switch plug and I should plug LB of the cowl plug into LW of the switch plug, correct? Then from the switch plug I run WB & B straight to ground. Am I saying this right? Thanks so much.

 

[cuencanolenny]

Rudi I got it!!! Thanks so much. I did just what I asked above and that worked like a charm.

 

[bj40green]

Rudi I got it!!! Thanks so much. I did just what I asked above and that worked like a charm.

Good! Another happy Mudder!