Sears David Bradley Trailer - 1940s, 50s, 60s? (2 Viewers)

[KYNate]

Bought this rusted old clap trap and gonna make it into my next camp trailer. Already ordered wheel adapters to fit the LC wheels(not the one pictured, but also from 100). Will start with some rust repair, trimming of fenders and recounting the leaf springs. Ultimately like to switch it over to Timbren axleless, lengthen the tongue and have a lock n roll style hitch.

 

[D21FJ60]

This should be fun. Sub'd

 

[JohnnyC]

Ive got a 54' DB Trailer... nice lil trailers

whats the vin number on it?


link:

IT's a Bradley

Johnny C----good job on the re-build-:beer:----i bought a sears and roebuck utility trailer a couple years ago , thanks...i painted the original rack green...wife wanted it covered soon to keep it looking good had to order an od canvas tarp before i had to hear it 5 more times... "you...

forum.ih8mud.com

more info here:

The Sears David Bradley Trailer

I recently acquired a 1950s-era all-steel Sears David Bradley trailer, and have been doing some research on it via the internet. With a lot of help...

www.earlycj5.com

 

[KYNate]

Ive got a 54' DB Trailer... nice lil trailers

whats the vin number on it?


link:

IT's a Bradley

Johnny C----good job on the re-build-:beer:----i bought a sears and roebuck utility trailer a couple years ago , thanks...i painted the original rack green...wife wanted it covered soon to keep it looking good had to order an od canvas tarp before i had to hear it 5 more times... "you...

forum.ih8mud.com

more info here:

The Sears David Bradley Trailer

I recently acquired a 1950s-era all-steel Sears David Bradley trailer, and have been doing some research on it via the internet. With a lot of help...

www.earlycj5.com

Hey Johnny, I've perused those threads, tons of great info. Unfortunately this little guy is missing its number plate. the screws are still there where it once was but that's it.
Since it's already an orphan with no VIN to track I'm not going to feel as bad about cutting and welding up a piece of history!

 

[JohnnyC]

That’s ok ... it is around a 53-55 or so just an FYI

Enjoy it!!! It needs help lol

 

[KYNate]

That’s ok ... it is around a 53-55 or so just an FYI

Enjoy it!!! It needs help lol

Thanks for the info! I was wondering about the tail light mounts. I'm guessing they were added after the factory. I'd never seen them on any internet images search.

 

[JohnnyC]

I wouldn’t rule them out as farm implement distributors also used these trailers as well as sears for sale and they made changes here and there for there brand

Like McCormick and International harvester and also purchased the trailers even benhur ... they sold them under their brand

My title had the manufacturer as Dunbar ... same manufacturer as the us military trailers

 

[KYNate]

Added a receiver and extended the tongue. Now able to use my AT Max Coupler.
Made a frame out of 1" square to support the tongue box. This box was the smallest and cheapest they had at HF. I was looking for smallest and just so happened to get cheap too, Haha. It is not very thick, but it was only about 85 bucks. I had tried a nice big Power Packer but that thing was massive.
I'm currently waiting on the wheel adapters I ordered.
Next steps are to patch a couple more rusted through spots, replace tail lights and rewire, spray-on Rustomeum berliner, and mount the Yakima truck bed rack in order to mount RTT.
Keeping the patina on the outside for the time being.
Also working on lifting the suspension. I'm planning to put Timbren axleless on it eventually, but until then I ordered longer ubolts and will just use some blocks to go about 2 or 3 inches higher.

 

[KYNate]

Some rust repair done, more to go!
Mocking up the Yakima mounts. Will Esquire a custom bracket as the trailer has the lip on the outside as opposed to a trick bed with it on the inside. Nbd, some cut off pieces of 1.5" will work just fine.
The awning will BE about neck high. Deciding between adding some jacks or carrying blocks to drive up on.

 

[KYNate]

Welded on tie-down points.
Welded on brackets to bolt down the Yakima truck bed system.
Finished spraying on rust converter.
I'm leaving the outside patina as is until I add the timbren axleless. Reason is I plan to completely redo the frame at that time and I will want to extend any sheet metal patches to cover the new frame. Based on how the LC wheels fit when the US Adapters come in, that timetable may be turned up. I custom ordered some Dsuban spring u-bolts that are 6" long. Going to put a 3" block to lift it. Along with trimming the fenders I think that'll do iy height-wise. The main concern I have is the offset. Gonna be tight as the LC has a high +offset wheel. (Did I word that correctly? Lol)

 

[KYNate]

Turns out im about 2" short (that's what she said) to clear the LC wheels so off comes the axle. Man this thing is stout! I will cut and stretch it out about 5" total. Will make new mounts out of 1/4 plate.
The new Springs arrived today and I made up some quick blocks to lift the thing.
Hope to put it back together this weekend... still waiting on the adapters.

 

[KYNate]

Cut out the new mounting plates exactly 2.5" away from the original. Allows me to use one of the previous holes. 2.5" extra should get me the clearance I need. I had 5 plus 2 from spacer/adapter plus 2.5 = 9.5
I need 8 for the tires and wheels. This gives me some wiggle room!

 

[KYNate]

This is pretty close to where its gonna end up. Redneck af lift blocks and custom ubolts. Needs lights, levelling jack mounts and...still waiting on adapters. Might mount the spare and a water tank underneath to keep cog as low as possible.

 

[KYNate]

Here is the widened axle. Cut, stretched 5", added 1.5" tube about 16" long.
I welded the spacer blocks in place.
I think I'm going to order 1/2 inch ubolts instead of the 3/8 i originally got .

 

[KYNate]

Was going to keep the original patina but I chickened out after I welded a couple patch panels in. It just looked out of place and i decided to sand it all down.
What color should I do? Either white, black or metallic silver. Or something crazy like a bright blue? My last trailer I painted orange and black. All rattle can options!
I used 22ga and it cuts so much easier than the 16ga i used on my other trailer!
I also cut the fenders to get rid of the lip leaving me with some more clearance for the 33s. If I need more width I'll add a strip of flat rubber or plastic.
Guess what! I'm STILL WAITING FOR WHEEL QDAPTERS TO ARRIVE! I know, real shocker.

 

[KYNate]

Ok voting ended, Haha. I went ahead and sprayed it white. I'll keep those vertical post mounts black. Thatll get touched up after the next coat of white dries. They're currently just painted with rust converter.

 

[KYNate]

Wheel spacers arrived over a month after I ordered them. I was so excited to out them together a d get the thing done once they shipped. BUT THE SPACERS DID NOT FIT!!!! The bolt pattern was correct but the hub bore was wrong. Took me a week to find a tool and die shop to clearance them for me. In the mean time I went ahead and rebuilt both hubs with all new bearings, races and seals.

 

[KYNate]

After all that I wa finally able to put the thing together and drive it around a little. It does great behind the cruiser. I like the paint color and max coupler is fantastic. I need new lug nuts so I can use my 100 series wheels I stead of the tundra steelies. Eventually I'd like to get the Timbren suspension in this one like I did the last.
I need to wire up the new lights and weld on the last bracket for the Jack on the front. Other than that it's ready for the rtt and awning.

 

[jeepmojo]

Wheel spacers arrived over a month after I ordered them. I was so excited to out them together a d get the thing done once they shipped. BUT THE SPACERS DID NOT FIT!!!! The bolt pattern was correct but the hub bore was wrong. Took me a week to find a tool and die shop to clearance them for me. In the mean time I went ahead and rebuilt both hubs with all new bearings, races and seals.

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[KYNate]

Getting ready for a trip from Kentucky to Colorado!