Sealing the Tub - Full Frame Off Restoration (1 Viewer)

[OffRoad911]

Another question for those who have done a professional full Frame Off restoration. Once you have removed the insulation material applied to the areas near the foot wells, how do you replace it? What material is used to replace the original material? What purpose does this serve?
Also the joints under the body are sealed with a grey epoxy resin. What is that material?
I have seen the epoxy being applied by the FJ Company during their restoration process.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Auto body seam sealer on all the joints! The more expensive brands usually maintain their elasticity longer then the cheaper ones. Some also smooth and/or self level.

 

[76FJ40]

I've had good luck with Fusor by Lord.

 

[S4Cruiser]

I've had good luck with Fusor by Lord.

This is what I used as well!

 

[tls3601]

Is the seam sealer put in after primer and before finish coat?? I have a similar project coming up soon.

 

[Jetlander]

Well my question is, will it hold up to having the body media blasted? I want to do the sealer myself but I’m also having the paint done professionally.

 

[Helipilot]

Why not blast it first, prime, and then seam seal it? Assures the elimination of any rust in your seams. Might add a couple of days before the paint.

 

[OffRoad911]

Why not blast it first, prime, and then seam seal it? Assures the elimination of any rust in your seams. Might add a couple of days before the paint.

My body shop specialists are suggesting they will hand rub the entire panels with sanding paper and will not use any form of media planting equipment as it will Pitt the metal and the biggest concern for them is losing the original factory primer. My vehicle is almost 98% rust free, so I suppose this isn’t a bad idea. Any suggestions?

 

[OffRoad911]

Auto body seam sealer on all the joints! The more expensive brands usually maintain their elasticity longer then the cheaper ones. Some also smooth and/or self level.

Thank you so much for your advice. That’s fine for the seams under the body, what about the foot wells etc.? If I take off the factory liner, what is the best thing to replace that with? I live in the UK, looking for something that will provide very good insulation as well as sound and heat protection.
Many thanks

 

[OffRoad911]

Auto body seam sealer on all the joints! The more expensive brands usually maintain their elasticity longer then the cheaper ones. Some also smooth and/or self level.

Spoke to my body shop guy and suggested they seal all joints under the body and as per your image. The body shop technician suggested that is not the correct method and this is his reasoning.
He suggested that the body panels need to breadth and these slots should not be entirely sealed with these rubberised sealers. If this was the case then why did the manufacturer not seal them? He has suggested, galvanising the entire frame, primer and then a coating of Raptor style liner spray.
I am now confused and do not know which is the correct version. I live in the UK and the under body will be exposed to the wet weather and salts due to winter.
I would love to hear from you and why it is preferable to seal all the joints the way you have done. Thanks

 

[S4Cruiser]

Thank you so much for your advice. That’s fine for the seams under the body, what about the foot wells etc.? If I take off the factory liner, what is the best thing to replace that with? I live in the UK, looking for something that will provide very good insulation as well as sound and heat protection.
Many thanks

Not all year trucks had that factory liner you mention. I have not heard or seen of a direct replacement. Some folks apply a product called lizard skin for heat insulation and sound deadening but most do it on the underside vs interior.

I opted to apply a color matched raptor liner (bed liner product) to the interior floors.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Spoke to my body shop guy and suggested they seal all joints under the body and as per your image. The body shop technician suggested that is not the correct method and this is his reasoning.
He suggested that the body panels need to breadth and these slots should not be entirely sealed with these rubberised sealers. If this was the case then why did the manufacturer not seal them? He has suggested, galvanising the entire frame, primer and then a coating of Raptor style liner spray.
I am now confused and do not know which is the correct version. I live in the UK and the under body will be exposed to the wet weather and salts due to winter.
I would love to hear from you and why it is preferable to seal all the joints the way you have done. Thanks

Welcome to the world of auto body. Everyone does it ‘their’ way and their way is right and others are wrong!

I would not recommend sealing the floor stamping areas where they is a gap below the body rib. For the others I chose the seal. I’d rather seal out rain and mud, etc. vs allowing any condensation to ‘breathe’ as your body guy says. I mean, is he going to tape off those seams so when they paint the paint doesn’t seal that panel to panel area to let it breathe?

 

[OffRoad911]

Welcome to the world of auto body. Everyone does it ‘their’ way and their way is right and others are wrong!

I would not recommend sealing the floor stamping areas where they is a gap below the body rib. For the others I chose the seal. I’d rather seal out rain and mud, etc. vs allowing any condensation to ‘breathe’ as your body guy says. I mean, is he going to tape off those seams so when they paint the paint doesn’t seal that panel to panel area to let it breathe?

Thanks for the input. Please correct me if I am wrong, the objective should be to seal all gaps in the body where there is no route to the internal body to allow water ingress and to seal all other areas. I suppose, what I am thinking is, imagine if there was a channel below the body and we seal the gaps under the body, if somehow water or moisture penetrates from within the cabin through the floor and into the channel under the body then the channel will start rotting as the water won't find a way to escape. I apologies in advance if I am repeating what you have already said.
Also can I please request if you could email me a good copy of your under-body seams that you have filled prior to the application of the liner or the paint. Would like to see where you have applied your seal. The image you posted on this forum isn't clear when I try to zoom in. I will DM you my email address. Many thanks

 

[S4Cruiser]

if somehow water or moisture penetrates from within the cabin through the floor and into the channel under the body then the channel will start rotting as the water won't find a way to escape.

Replied to your email but wanted to address the point above.

You should be sealing the seam in both places - interior/exterior top and underside to prevent what you are describing. When you have your tub media blasted, you will clearly see the factory seam sealer still in the top panel seams. I used a razor blade to scrap all (or as much as I could) factory sealer out before applying new sealer.

 

[Helipilot]

I did the same thing @ S4Cruiser did on the interior and also three coats of rubberized undercoat to the bottom. Brushed it on to really force the material into the seams to seal them. On the interior I used the 3M seam sealer; 3M 08307 Self-Leveling Seam Sealer for the horizontal surfaces and 3M 08308 Heavy-Bodied Seam Sealer for any vertical surfaces to prevent sag or running of the sealer.

I have been in England and you have a lot of wet roads and other issues to deal with. Good Luck!