Sealed transmission - is there a port & parts for adding a dipstick? (1 Viewer)

[LINUS]

I'll go ahead & make the obvious joke - "Yeah, you already added a dipstick. Go look in the mirror."
--Now that we have that out of the way, let's get to it.--

I know that it's a sealed unit & my local dealer says 'lifetime fluid unless you tow, then 100K full flush'. That's well & good, I've no problem with that unless we see a floatilla of scorched trannys due to fluid breakdown (very unlikely as lots of guys have miles on theirs).

That all said, I just can't get behind not even being able to check the level. I'm a believer in staying on top of your stuff, and for whatever reason you simply can't check fluid here - am I the only one who thinks this is goofy?

Is there a foreign market situation where we can add a dipstick to a pre-existing port that Toyota plugs for the 5.7? I'm in a Tundra, but doubt anything different could really matter.

This may seem silly to some, but when 60K was the 'recommended check' per original Toyota service when intro'ed ~2009, and a Tundra has a 60K powertrain warrenty, you see why I ask this - any issue will be on us when Toyota has no real skin in the game anymore.

Tranny dipstick parts kit?

 

[40Man]

You can check it, just not easily. Have to get it to the right temp and check the overflow valve. And it is not lifetime fluid, no matter what your local dealer tells you.

 

[LINUS]

You can check it, just not easily. Have to get it to the right temp and check the overflow valve. And it is not lifetime fluid, no matter what your local dealer tells you.

I am really not a fan of this "lifetime fluid" idea either.

Also, as bad as some of the stories about powerflushing (what Toyota would end up doing anyhow) - my working thought right now is if I'm going to kick up crap powerflushing, I may as well do a 60K powerflush @ the dealer than wait an extra 40-60-80K & really kick up crap.

Seems a "damned if you do, damned if you don't" -situation.

 

[LINUS]

I just hit 59K & the last owner towed semi-frequent, and I tow less frequent & less weight (mine's ~5-6K) than 1st owner, he towed ~8-9K & easily weekly.

So it's a real catch-22 if I ought to do a service, I think.

IDK.

 

[bjowett]

We will be able to add a dipstick to the PML aftermarket pan. At a minimum, we will be able easily inspect condition, and also refill.

Transmission pan - PML aluminum high capacity

As for service, given the previous use, I recommend you at least drain the pan so you can inspect the fluid. It takes 2.5 - 3 liters to refill, which needs to be done through the fill port up on the side of the transmission.

Refill tools

How I found a less expensive Toyota transmission fill tool

 

[LINUS]

@bjowett - THANK YOU for the chime-in Brian, your opinion & our prior exchange is huge by me in decisions I've made on things where you're a voice of experience in those areas.

So you think my specific Tundra history & use merits getting in there currently?

With that in mind, are you in greater favor of doing a simple dump of the ___ qts that come out, and refill that via the new dipstick?

I say that as the powerflush seems to get a real bad rep so far and while I'm hesitant to do it, it seems the "lesser evil" against just keeping on towing/my normal use & "winging it".

I'm at the point I expect I probably should do *something* but as you know I'm a dead newb to the 5.7 powertrain & anything newer than 1997 in Yota world.

 

[LINUS]

I should add I'm on a 'extended warranty' (plan to cancel when I make final payment ~18 mo. out).

Also, I plan to own & run this square into the ground (I expect a minimum of a decade of owning barring a wreck/stolen/???).

I think newer cars are a necessary evil but a horrible investment & I keep to a minimum of buy/sell of them.

 

[Romer]

My 100 had the same thing so I was use to it. Towing my trailer over the mountains last year I spaced and had it in drive going up some steep mtn passes. We could actually feel the heat in the cab so as a precaution I did a tranny fluid flush and fill. It was only $189 and worth it for my peace of mind. There is another thread on here on the tranny temps when towing in 4th gear and even 5th vs D are much lower

Welcome to the 200 obsession Linus You won't regret it

 

[allan man]

 

[Markuson]

That's a great video. Very well presented.

 

[allan man]

That's a great video. Very well presented.

I thought so to... Maybe that's why some dealers refuse to do a full flush...I think I'm just going to partially loosen my drain plug and catch some of the trans fluid on a piece of white paper towel and see what color it is and make a decision from there.

 

[allan man]

Scan gauge method seems to be alot easier compared to the other two methods via tech stream or shorting the obd ports especially if you already own a scan gauge.

 

[bjowett]

IME any Toyota or Lexus that comes through my garage will at a minimum have the ATF fluid inspected. I've seen vehicles used for towing and plowing with mileage like your's have both good fluid, and some with worn out fluid.... So you don't absolutely need to drain the pan... but placing 3 fresh liters in there certainly won't hurt and will rejuvenate the additives package. Ken offered a great explanation why, sh*t happens.... to all of us... do you want possibly mediocre fluid in there when it happens, or fluid that is in good shape and can take a few hot runs w/o failing? Until we have that dipstick which allows easy inspection, we will be guessing. Guessing wrong can be very expensive.

Thanks for the videos.

 

[Romer]

Nice video. That was very well done

 

[NLScooby]

I just did a complete fluid exchange at home. Nearly 14 quarts. I also dropped the pan and replaced the screen (filter), the pan gasket and the crush washers and o ring on the drain, check port and fill plug.. I have taken photos and plan to put a video together. I can't believe My dealer wanted $280 to drain 3 quarts out of the pan and then mix in some new fluid.
There was some sludge stuck to the magnets in the pan and the filter screen looked dirty (compared to the new one).
I'm very happy to have done this and have fresh fluid coursing throughout my entire transmission!

 

[allan man]

I just did a complete fluid exchange at home. Nearly 14 quarts. I also dropped the pan and replaced the screen (filter), the pan gasket and the crush washers and o ring on the drain, check port and fill plug.. I have taken photos and plan to put a video together. I can't believe My dealer wanted $280 to drain 3 quarts out of the pan and then mix in some new fluid.
There was some sludge stuck to the magnets in the pan and the filter screen looked dirty (compared to the new one).
I'm very happy to have done this and have fresh fluid coursing throughout my entire transmission!

How many miles on your ATF before the exchange? Was it still red?

 

[LINUS]

Wow, glad I asked as I thought I was being "Mr. Paranoid" here.

@NLScooby - post back what your odometer is when you do it, also what your useage is (towing, etc.) -it would be great if we see the color of yours & miles on it.

My working theory right now is that **if** I'm going to make a move that I'm best off doing sooner than later, and paying the local dealership to go the full flush.
1. It's on them if anything goes wrong later.
2. Their price was relatively fine (~$300-350?).

I have that full warranty for 4yrs if I chose, it was part/parcel with my loan being backed by my credit union - & I can cancel & refund if I pay off the loan early (could go either way, money is cheap to borrow right now).

Bigger picture is that I don't mind going whole hog on a flush now since I plan to own it for a good decade++ of use so I'll own it well beyond any coverage left, and so smart money seems to just powerflush now. Then if there was any material that could possibly be kicked up it would manifest far sooner than if I put this off for 2-3 yrs, just to see issues when my warranty is over.

Anybody think my idea to just flush the thing now is less common sense than I see it? I really want to just keep this thing well maintained so when I want to drag the boat all I need think of is gas MPG (so proactive, not cheaping out on maint.).

Longterm I'd do it again say in 60K / 5yr intervals like where I am now. Reasonable?

I say this as PO added airbags out back for how he used, and I run over the Cascades (6-8% grades?) & when towing the boat it's loaded to a shy 8K load between gear, gas, etc.

Good tip on the manual shifting @Romer - thanks!

 

[NLScooby]

How many miles on your ATF before the exchange? Was it still red?

I bought my LC with 75K on the odometer. I changed it at 100K miles and it was absolutely not red. It was quite dark (brownish/redish).

 

[vapilotda]

Fluid changes are cheap insurance for us OCD land cruiser folk. I had the dealership flush my 2015 at 30k and I'll do them myself now that I have a techstream hook up. I've changed the transmission fluid on every vehicle I've owned around 30k intervals and I use the "pump out 2 quarts, add 2 quarts" method for about 12 quarts. I can always see the difference in the fluid as the color shifts from a darker red to the new bright red fluid. I've never towed with my vehicles so from that experience, it blows my mind when the dealership says "lifetime fluid." Total BS. This tansmission has clutches and bands that wear just like any other automatic transmission.

 

[NLScooby]

Wow, glad I asked as I thought I was being "Mr. Paranoid" here.

@NLScooby - post back what your odometer is when you do it, also what your useage is (towing, etc.) -it would be great if we see the color of yours & miles on it.

My working theory right now is that **if** I'm going to make a move that I'm best off doing sooner than later, and paying the local dealership to go the full flush.
1. It's on them if anything goes wrong later.
2. Their price was relatively fine (~$300-350?).

I have that full warranty for 4yrs if I chose, it was part/parcel with my loan being backed by my credit union - & I can cancel & refund if I pay off the loan early (could go either way, money is cheap to borrow right now).

Bigger picture is that I don't mind going whole hog on a flush now since I plan to own it for a good decade++ of use so I'll own it well beyond any coverage left, and so smart money seems to just powerflush now. Then if there was any material that could possibly be kicked up it would manifest far sooner than if I put this off for 2-3 yrs, just to see issues when my warranty is over.

Anybody think my idea to just flush the thing now is less common sense than I see it? I really want to just keep this thing well maintained so when I want to drag the boat all I need think of is gas MPG (so proactive, not cheaping out on maint.).

Longterm I'd do it again say in 60K / 5yr intervals like where I am now. Reasonable?

I say this as PO added airbags out back for how he used, and I run over the Cascades (6-8% grades?) & when towing the boat it's loaded to a shy 8K load between gear, gas, etc.

Good tip on the manual shifting @Romer - thanks!

Linus,
The big difference between what I did and what a dealer or lube place does is that I didn't use a closed-system forced flush.....which is what apparently stirs up all the junk and causes more problems on older transmissions. After draining, dropping and cleaning/refilling the pan (5 quarts), I did a flush where I let the vehicle's transmission cooler-pump - pump out fluid...I captured a specific volume (3 quarts) at a time after the second trans cooler and then refilled the same volume. I repeated this last step 3 times and then followed the FSM to ensure the trans temp was at the correct temp to measure the fluid level. I went through 14 quarts of fluid and it is red red red now!

I had 103K miles on my LC. I have some photos and a video that I need to compile/edit that'll show it all. I don't tow with this (I have a Cummins powered Ram Mega-Cab for that)....and from the fact that my LC was missing the towing electrical harness - I'm guessing the prior owner didn't either.