SE Michigan….need some work/mods done…also krown vs fluid film? (1 Viewer)

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Man I’m having a hell of a time trying to get a rear welded together, no shop wants to take it on. Ken over at expedition shot it real straight with me that they are going to charge me an ungodly amount and I should find one already assembled for them to slap on, he seems like a really good guy and if it comes down to it I will go with them. I’m going to call a place in Brighton tomorrow that the line X shop recommended as he wanted nothing to do with it, I also asked NWTI if they would consider selling me an assembled one. I’m having it shipped to a commercial address with a forklift so hopefully that helps somewhat.

The sliders don’t appear to be an issue, lots of shops work with trail gear apparently.


Either way first thing I need to do is paint or wrap, so I need to the body shop plug the old holes from the flares, drill new holes then paint then put the new flares on. So it’s not like the rear and sliders is something I need to be done right now but I would like to have my ducks in a row and have the parts ready to rock so it’s done sooner rather than later.

Also had a shop turn down a speaker install today saying something about the stock amp making it complicated, that was interesting. Going to try another shop tomorrow…

Then there is the matter of retrofitting some new front seats 🤦🏻‍♂️


What a mess, sometimes I wish I lived in the southwest I bet there are a dozen shops or guys within a stones throw which would love to knock all that stuff out for an LC.


What I would really like to do is pay a mud member to do it all so my money goes to them instead but doesn’t look like that’s going to happen….
Sent you a response on PM, bypassing the stock amp is simple, there's a bypass harness pre-wired from the factory, you just need one of those Metra wiring harnesses to go between the head unit and bypass harness.

A good shop will know the factory amp is junk and can be bypassed, keep looking around. I bought my head unit and wiring harness from this guy in Ypsi, he seemed like he knew his stuff and of course does installs: mrtunes-annarbor - Google Search - https://g.page/mrtunes-annarbor?share
 
Sent you a response on PM, bypassing the stock amp is simple, there's a bypass harness pre-wired from the factory, you just need one of those Metra wiring harnesses to go between the head unit and bypass harness.

A good shop will know the factory amp is junk and can be bypassed, keep looking around. I bought my head unit and wiring harness from this guy in Ypsi, he seemed like he knew his stuff and of course does installs: mrtunes-annarbor - Google Search - https://g.page/mrtunes-annarbor?share


Thank you Cheezy, I got your PM and I sincerely appreciate the info, I bought the speakers and I'm going to tackle the install myself. Welding and fab is one thing but if I can't install some damn speakers I have no business owning a 25 year old truck, going to pull it into my warehouse get it under the lights and figure it out.


My main problem right now is the rear bumper, my main criteria is being able to put the spare back under the truck and also quarter panel protection. The NWTI is perfect but nobody wants to touch it they have no interest in welding a kit together. I even called some local random welders in addition to shops and told them I wouldn't hold them liable for anything, I would ship it directly to them and pick it up when it's done......no interest. I'm not sure what to do at this point, I can settle for a unit I don't want like an ARB or I can settle for the 4x4 labs with the long wait for the assembled one where I can't put the spare back under the truck as I wanted.

Really not sure what to do here.....
 
I found a local young guy who is happy and excited to do the work at a reasonable price and he looks legit. I ordered the kut snake flares, the NWTI rear and I’m deciding on sliders leaning towards trail gear just because they are readily available and cheap but still shopping a bit. He’s also going to weld the stock fender holes and drill the new holes for the kut snakes before I paint.

So other than some small things after the fender prep it’s time for paint, looking into that now. She’s originally green so it needs to be something that will somewhat match, I’m thinking a dark charcoal or gunmetal metallic. I don’t need some perfect show quality paint job that’s for sure, hell I’m thinking to just go to maaco.

My last question marks are the seats really. The ones in there now aren’t tore up at all compared to most but of course stiff, uncomfortable and I’m 6’1, i would like something more cushy that also sits lower and can push just a little further back. Been having some trouble sourcing transplants from the local junkyard, I think I have to be patient on that.

Looks like she’s coming together sooner rather than later!
 
I Fluid Film my trucks every fall, my GX470 has quite literally zero rust. I don't wash it off or clean the bottom of the truck though, there are years of buildup under there so it looks nasty. I will take nasty looks and grime vs rust anyday. I do it at home in the driveway with their pro spray gun kit, air compressor, and crock pot to keep it hot and easy to spray. If it is not too expensive to have someone else do it I would go that route. I think a gallon of fluid runs about $40 so factor that in the cost., a gallon will do 2 vehicles.
 
I found a local young guy who is happy and excited to do the work at a reasonable price and he looks legit. I ordered the kut snake flares, the NWTI rear and I’m deciding on sliders leaning towards trail gear just because they are readily available and cheap but still shopping a bit. He’s also going to weld the stock fender holes and drill the new holes for the kut snakes before I paint.

So other than some small things after the fender prep it’s time for paint, looking into that now. She’s originally green so it needs to be something that will somewhat match, I’m thinking a dark charcoal or gunmetal metallic. I don’t need some perfect show quality paint job that’s for sure, hell I’m thinking to just go to maaco.

My last question marks are the seats really. The ones in there now aren’t tore up at all compared to most but of course stiff, uncomfortable and I’m 6’1, i would like something more cushy that also sits lower and can push just a little further back. Been having some trouble sourcing transplants from the local junkyard, I think I have to be patient on that.

Looks like she’s coming together sooner rather than later!
Hey Francis, can you PM me a name and number or email for the guy? I want to see if he will do some welding for me...
 
Hey Francis, can you PM me a name and number or email for the guy? I want to see if he will do some welding for me...


Yea of course, I just asked him first to make sure so let me see what he says but should be fine I will PM you. A couple guys had also asked about the mechanic I found who was expierenced in LC’s and he told me to wait before I give his info out because he only has room for one at a time right now.

Also you had said you were looking for undercoating, the line x shop on Plymouth just off of Wayne is a Krown franchise now, I went over there and they said $140 to get her done but I waiting to get a couple more mechanical things addressed before I coat her.
 
Yea of course, I just asked him first to make sure so let me see what he says but should be fine I will PM you. A couple guys had also asked about the mechanic I found who was expierenced in LC’s and he told me to wait before I give his info out because he only has room for one at a time right now.

Also you had said you were looking for undercoating, the line x shop on Plymouth just off of Wayne is a Krown franchise now, I went over there and they said $140 to get her done but I waiting to get a couple more mechanical things addressed before I coat her.
Thanks! ...and thanks for the heads up on the Krown franchise, that will 100% be the next step. He can always take a look at it and see if he's comfortable with doing it or not, definitely a no pressure situation with me - I'm doing it this fall sometime, but I am not in a rush...
 
If anyone wants the info on the kid who is experienced with LC's in Dearborn Heights or the welder in Westland send me a PM they were both okay with it. I don't want to just plaster their info on the internet like that because it's their personal numbers.

The kid is actually into the community so he knows all the new fixes and things of that nature, the welder guy is actually a former roush mechanic but also an experienced welder and the one guy I found willing to fab accessories up and on without taking my first born for it.
 
Well the welder doesn’t know what he is talking about. Fluid Film is lanolin oil, also the product you listed is lanolin oil. I would suggest to do more research on your end so you are educated and make a solid decision, you will have to do this every year.
 
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Krown in Rochester Hills was excellent. Went there with my "new" '06 LX470 for the first time and was impressed with the service.
 
Krown in Rochester Hills was excellent. Went there with my "new" '06 LX470 for the first time and was impressed with the service.
I am taking my '18 f
I took 2 vehicles to this guy and he was very good
I have a Krown dealer in Indiana that has great reviews, but he said that he drills holes in the doors and maybe the rocker panels to really distribute the material. Has that been your experience? If not, what is standard operating procedure?
 
I am taking my '18 f

I have a Krown dealer in Indiana that has great reviews, but he said that he drills holes in the doors and maybe the rocker panels to really distribute the material. Has that been your experience? If not, what is standard operating procedure?
I skipped that service as I don’t want my stuff drilled. I just did undercarriage
 
The whole rust proofing/rust prevention thing is a crap shoot involving mystery liquids and questionable application methods but I bought in with the GX460 as is there any other option in our highway environment other than winter storage which I do with the FJ-40.
Back in the 70's I was working in the stamping group at Chrysler Co. It was amazing how much coiled steel was found defective once it was put into stamping presses, it split, delaminated etc. They were importing steel and probably from the same mills in Japan that supplied to Toyota for the 40's of that era.
 
The whole rust proofing/rust prevention thing is a crap shoot involving mystery liquids and questionable application methods but I bought in with the GX460 as is there any other option in our highway environment other than winter storage which I do with the FJ-40.
Back in the 70's I was working in the stamping group at Chrysler Co. It was amazing how much coiled steel was found defective once it was put into stamping presses, it split, delaminated etc. They were importing steel and probably from the same mills in Japan that supplied to Toyota for the 40's of that era.
I agree. In my opinion, there is no "secret sauce" that is a "one and done" application that assures that you'll have no rust. Instead, I believe that the best rustproofing is attributed to the skills of the rustproofer, quantity, and frequency of the application.

That being said, I had a Krown dealer in Amish country north of Ft. Wayne, IN do a phenomenal job on my '18 200 LC today! Very thorough with great attention to detail. He does it full-time, and I am completely satisfied. Drove 2 hrs. one way to get it done. I will bring my '13 LX 570 in next.

If anyone in Indiana or Southern Michigan is interested, ask for Rufus. Yep, Rufus. He's the man.
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I agree. In my opinion, there is no "secret sauce" that is a "one and done" application that assures that you'll have no rust. Instead, I believe that the best rustproofing is attributed to the skills of the rustproofer, quantity, and frequency of the application.

That being said, I had a Krown dealer in Amish country north of Ft. Wayne, IN do a phenomenal job on my '18 200 LC today! Very thorough with great attention to detail. He does it full-time, and I am completely satisfied. Drove 2 hrs. one way to get it done. I will bring my '13 LX 570 in next.

If anyone in Indiana or Southern Michigan is interested, ask for Rufus. Yep, Rufus. He's the man.View attachment 2879462

I’m about 2 hours north of Graybill. How long were you there for the treatment? I’d much rather do this than crawl around under my truck with Fluid Film again this year? And do they clean as part of the prep? Thanks.
 
I’m about 2 hours north of Graybill. How long were you there for the treatment? I’d much rather do this than crawl around under my truck with Fluid Film again this year? And do they clean as part of the prep? Thanks.

I was there for about an hour. They have a nice, warm little office to sit in if you want, but Rudy encourages people to see what he is doing. Just wear shoes that can get oil on them or shoe covers. They will pre-clean before the prep for maybe another $20 and it may be worth if if you have a lot of caked on debris (or Lake Superior sand ;)). I went to a Mike's carwash just before I rolled over there and I did an underbody wash.
BTW, he recommends that you limit your underbody washes to 6-7 per year, which is about right for the number of snow events where I live.

Also, he offered to drill little access points to more fully distribute the Krown. I declined this time, but I was so impressed with his diligence, that I might take him up on it next time. Apparently, Krown supplies these small ports.

Finally, a shampoo before you head home.
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Thanks! Looks good.
 

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