Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration) (3 Viewers)

[2001LC]

Is it a sickness or is it the cure!

I've just scored a 2006 Land Cruiser w/194K HWY miles. My 5th 100 series in 15 months. It took two months of emails, texted and calls and 500 miles of driving to score this one. I do love an acquisition challenge, and this was yet another.

The body's a 9+. paint 7, interior 9, rust free (except skid plate which is already in the trash), no accident report, one owner more or less.

This beauty was used to run up and down the HWY between Denver and Vail, Co. ~110 miles ea way for a family of four. This is what PO stated and is what condition shows.

I found 5 DTC codes, 4 active on pre-purchase inspection. DTC report AHC C1718 & C1776, ABS C1223 & C1241 Nothing really a big deal or so I hope, working on cleaning and list of stuff to R&R now.

PO had some issues ascending the mountain in the early years. Pressed the Toyota Dealer to correct the issue, which they did. I'll dig into this and report back, as it may help those that have the CAT issues now on the VVTi.

Other than that PO just kept clean, accept undercarriage, which I've been power washing winter-mountain-road-crud off for days now. Undercarriage cleaning has been the case with each of the five 100 series I bought in last ~15 months.

My first parts purchase will be hood struts, other than fluids & filters. Currently thinking I'll work on detailing first as I test drive for weeks to find what all I'll need to restore to it's form beauty & reliability. Show room ready as they say!
Before:

After:

PO had @sleeoffroad install an AHC override switch.

Speaking of AHC I did preliminary flush to aid in determining if a leaky shock needs replaced or just some TLC. Thanks to @PADDO and the guy's I missed biting the bullet on the flush job:AHC very low, will off button keep pump from running?

Here I go again, my girl friend may leave me if I keep this up, she feels neglected. Maybe one day I'l get another Garnet Black Pearl for her, right!
Carpet stain removal #63
Starter & A.I.R. pump was a big project.
Timing Belt #128
Brake booster test #36
Steering Rack mounting bushing, poly replacement. Post #150
Steering Vane pump HP line Post # 154
Differential bushing replacement, front #175
Crossmember #3 reconditioning #186
HVCA cabin Climate Control Sensor Page 4 Post #68
AHC front shock pre flush and replacement Page #10 post #191
Windshield molding Page #13 post # 249
Fuel injectors Page #12 post # 230 -

 

[D21FJ60]

So you were working on one while literally negotiating another? Sensei teach us your ways

 

[2001LC]

Both side (same as Redbaron) inner boot leaking at clamp:

After, new front drive shafts:

HP power steering line weeping fluid.

After shop pressure fit new fittings & hose:

Flush the power steering and cleaned to see what's what on this HP line.

 

[2001LC]

Power steering flush went well. I found fluid look and smelt ugly.

Surprisingly reservoir screen was easily cleaned:

Few start & shut down (fast shut downs) of engine, and 1 qt. flush was done! Or if wheel off ground it easy and safer to turn steering wheel lock (as far as it goes) to lock hold at each lock.

I was able to finishes flushing of AHC, once I did picked up 2 more qts. Dealer is only carrying two 1 liter bottles at a time is a pain for me, I'll need to stock up.
Getting 11 plus gradation.

Now I'll adjust suspension and keep watch DS front shock:

 

[2001LC]

Engine oil & filter was easy. I'm just using old oil drain plug gasket for now as I'll re-flushing in ~500 miles. I plan on re-flushing all the above. These were just part of inspection and prep.

Air filter had some miles on it:

Replaced with a K&N I had lying around:

Resealed the fuse box lid with my shop supplies:

 

[Snowrydr01]

what is your undercarriage power washing technique? do you have a 90 bend? I'm about to start a rust conversion + fluid film job under mine and would like to get as far ahead as possible instead of being under it washing by hand from the start

 

[2001LC]

Naturally Heater Tee's are on the list:

Correcting a climate control issues, will be something new for me:

Battery post where dry. I cleaned up (baking soda & wire brush battery tool) & greased: (Tip: Always removed negative post first and replace last.)

Charging system looks OK:

 

[2001LC]

So you were working on one while literally negotiating another? Sensei teach us your ways

Yeap, I also notice most of the target's I looked at were white, just different years. So I picked up a rear bumper skin early, thanks to a mud member. Also stock up on some common parts and fluids. Timed it so I closed the sell then the buy 3 hours later. Garage was not without work for a day! Tried to squeeze a mud member in for some minor work in-between, but he CXL at last minute.

what is your undercarriage power washing technique? do you have a 90 bend? I'm about to start a rust conversion + fluid film job under mine and would like to get as far ahead as possible instead of being under it washing by hand from the start

I do have a 90 deg which I use a lot on undercarriage. I've went through two "Follow Me" (which I love) but they just kept breaking down. So company gave me a high end PR washer. Great but not near as convenient as the Follow Me.

I've four different heads I use. The one in the bottom of picture will cut through skin, it's dangerously strong!

I'm trying out POR-15 cleaner for the first time. I've been just using Citrus cleaner which leaves a film, but cut grease ok. Empty Citrus bottle is great for water & dish soap. Purple Power's Purple Cleaner degreaser is very hard on paint, Citrus Cleaner is not as tough on paint.

I use various brushes & solvent also, to agitate & break down grease grim where needed.:

These work well for bolt heads, along with rust & grim on front & rear end work like steering knuckles, hubs, wheels (back plate & rotors) etc...

 

[2001LC]

Looks like I've the oh-so-easy-to-fix $2.00 dip stick seal repair again, sweet:

Did i mention this one's over due for Timing Belt job. I'll save this fun later, need something to look forward too!

I'm still cleaning undercarriage and will continue until nothings falling in my eyes nor any oil spots are found. Cleaning is a big parts of evaluating & repairs. If I spent 100 hours on this project, 30 hours or more will be cleaning systems & parts.

 

[Rolocado]

Naturally Heater Tee's are on the list:
View attachment 1470285
Correcting a climate control issues, will be something new for me:
View attachment 1470286 View attachment 1470287
Battery post where dry. I cleaned up (baking soda & wire brush battery tool) & greased: (Tip: negative removed first and on last--- always)
View attachment 1470289
Charging system looks OK:
View attachment 1470288

Did you wash the engine bay already or was it that clean?

 

[2001LC]

Did you wash the engine bay already or was it that clean?

I washed it!
Here some pre-wash pictures:

 

[Rolocado]

View attachment 1470601 View attachment 1470602 View attachment 1470604 View attachment 1470605 View attachment 1470601

I still don't get how you do it. I'm scared to my wits end about spraying water everywhere in there

 

[REZARF]

I still don't get how you do it. I'm scared to my wits end about spraying water everywhere in there

Go for it, I run a power washer and foam cannon under my hood every time I wash my car. Never an issue. Just think, after cleaning your engine bay you can go inside and tear all those labels off your mattresses, put a Q-Tip in your ear canal and run with scissors.... You'll be as free as a bird man.

It's a cruiser, hose away.

 

[KYLandy]

Subbed for outcome on cats. I hope you have a miraculous solution that costs little.

 

[sean2202]

@2001LC , thank you for sharing all your experiences with us. I enjoyed following your progress with "Red barren" and look forward to your challenges with this one.

Your trucks are better than showroom ready because of your attention to each and every detail. Probably even be better than when they came from the factory!

I hope that when I am ready for another cruiser that you are still doing this "hobby"

 

[2001LC]

I still don't get how you do it. I'm scared to my wits end about spraying water everywhere in there

Wash engine:

First thing is to very lightly wet the battery, then pour baking soda all over just letting it bubble for awhile. I'll later come back and soak, being careful to not washes off baking soda yet. Some just premix water and baking soda and pour over the battery. This is very important as baking soda neutralizes acid. If not done the acid (some can't be seen) washes over the lower parts, body, etc.. and will eat paint and metal. This is why we find exposed metal & rust under battery tray area, it's also why (one reason) a plastic tray is used.

I completely remove the air box, leaving only the bottom of filter box which has a drain in it. I them cover the vacuum hose ends that were attached to the air box with aluminum foil or plastic bags, along with the mouth of throttle body to keep out soap & water.

This particular time I removed the drive belt, tensioner & idler pulleys. The belt can be damage/cut by the high pressure water, and the pulley's bearings will go bad when water hits them if their seals are at all marginal. I usually just stay away from the belt and pulleys. But I'm going to do a timing belt job, so wanted to clean up area bit.

The next area of concern is the Valley (V) that the starter is in, under the intake manifold between the heads. In the VVti engine there is also the A/I pump stuff in the V as well, I've no idea of what flooding would do to that stuff. So I avoid the A/I pump stuff at/under the front (under throttle body & intake manifold). The VVTi plastic intake manifold ports do not have open gaps between them like its aluminum predecessor. So washing the sides of intake, head, fuel rail, fuel injector and head/valve covers don't have as many opens gaps to worry about filling the V from. I do wash this area in either engine carefully. I just don't want water entering the V, filling it faster then the drains in the rear of the V can handle. The starter is sealed up to the vents on top, but those seals get old and shrink. I also like the front of engine higher then the rear, so I just park on a hill (my driveway), so water is following to drains in back of valley. I try to be careful not washing this area for to long at a time, again out of concern, to reduce water going into V faster then drains can handle.
Engine wash

Also I'm careful with wire housings, foam rubber of stuff high pressure (hp) water may cut, so I work around then when I've the HP water tip up close to cut grease & grim off engine. Notice I re-sealed the fuse box first, as I don't want any water blowing up under seal into box. I like to keep fuse connections high and dry

Also I don't spent to much time at base of fuel injector as those old seals are dried on tops and really aren't that tight. I'm not concern with a few drops of water entering engine cylinders through injector ports, but don't want to blow apart seals or blow grim into seals. I may pull fuel injectors, intake manifold or head covers and don't want grim/sand falling into cylinders (piston tops) or heads cam/valve area so I do like to clean area.

A steam cleaner is best, as it put out less water then even an HP washer. Whereas a garden hose puts out to much water for the V area.

Working on a clean engine is so much nicer and reduce chance of getting sand & grim into sensitive parts.

 

[2001LC]

Go for it, I run a power washer and foam cannon under my hood every time I wash my car. Never an issue. Just think, after cleaning your engine bay you can go inside and tear all those labels off your mattresses, put a Q-Tip in your ear canal and run with scissors.... You'll be as free as a bird man.

It's a cruiser, hose away.

Freedom, I love it.

PISS: I use Q-tips, don't tell my ENT Dr.

@2001LC , thank you for sharing all your experiences with us. I enjoyed following your progress with "Red barren" and look forward to your challenges with this one.

Your trucks are better than showroom ready because of your attention to each and every detail. Probably even be better than when they came from the factory!

I hope that when I am ready for another cruiser that you are still doing this "hobby"

Thank you for your kind & encouraging words.

I really do care; that whomever buys any of my restoration projects is happy with it, for a very long time. I want then feeling like they got a great deal, not so much on purchase price but value. The work I'll do on this one, a shop just can't take the time to, only restoration shop can and they are very expensive.

 

[Snowrydr01]

when you power wash the under-body, do you use any decreasing solvents through the power washer or are you washing off loose grime then hand cleaning with the de-greaser?

Im not trying to cur corners, but if i could feed the de-greaser through the PW that would be good.

Have you ever tried to use a de-greaser mix of some type in your foam lance on the PW?

 

[LXColorado]

Hard to tell exactly what's going on with your climate control, but I think we had the same problem. HVAC Troubleshooting

 

[2001LC]

Subbed for outcome on cats. I hope you have a miraculous solution that costs little.

CATs, what's killing them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Coolant is number one killer of CATs. Just tiny droplets over time will accumulate in a CAT and kill it.

Poor workmanship perhaps of CATs or materials (metals). In 2005 a big push to reduce pollutants from metals and the process to form then into parts was enacted. I believe that's why the newer thermostats (have different parts number) are twice the cost of older one for the 2UZ-fe. My 01 cost ~$18, whereas my 07 cost $38. They look identical and are interchangeable.

Ok so we've those possibilities out of the way. Could both of those just be issues of 06 & 07? Possible!

So what else will kill a CAT.

How about operating slightly out of designed temp over the long run.?

On the Redbaron I found air/vacuum leaks at intake manifold gasket. Air/fuel ratio effects engine temp, to much air and engine exhaust gases run hot. ECU would work to compensate. To much air is known as a lean mixture. Redbaron's CAT's were ok, but I found issue and corrected, perhaps in time.

Fuel pump may be a cause of CAT failure:

Now on this 06LC with 194K it did have a CAT replaced, bank 1 ((IIRC that's DS (drive side)). Following history from Dealer records I found PO complained of engine dying while ascending I-70 into the Rocky Mountains. As he approached the Eisenhower tunnel about 50 miles west of Denver at tree line 12,500 ft ASL, the engine would die. He'd let it sit for awhile and it would then start. He reported this on more than 4 occasions. The Toyota Dealer (Stevenson, reportedly a good shop) tested fuel pump (45 PSI) and reported as good, with no DTC. Toyota shop mechanic took on test drive up to the tunnel with PSI gauge hooked up, along voltmeter to fuel pump "if I read correctly". They found no issues at 39K miles during these test by Dealer. At 96K miles P0400 DTC, BANK 1 CATS. CAT was replaced. At 97K miles Dealer replace fuel pump even though it tested in perfect working order at 39K and at 97K miles, nor could they duplicate engine stall issue. But for some reason Dealer keep coming back to fuel pump. Finally they replaced the fuel pump. Issue(s) did not/has not reoccur again, over next ~100K miles now.

On a side note: The shop I use here in Denver to clean, rebuild and test fuel injectors Fuel Injector Specialists - Home - Wheat Ridge, CO Had told a mud member recently, that the fuel pressure regulate weakens around 100K miles in series 100's and should be replaced. In his opinion it reduces MPG. I'll bet fuel PR still falls into spec range when tested to factory spec. So we've more indication we've a fuel pressure issue(s).
When to replace fuel injectors

I've also read, in mud, of issue with stalling when ascending (calling it vapor locking) in the Rocky Mountains and replacing fuel pump correcting. This is not the same as over topping fuel tank, filling charcoal canister with gas issue in the 03-07 models.


06LC Toyota Dealer notes:
7/14/08 39K MISC MAINTENANCE ~|~WHILE
DRIVING UP THE MOUNTAIN, ALL OF
A SUDDEN ON ACCELERATION,
THERE WAS NO RESPONSE,ENGINE
IDLED REAL ROUGH BUT WOULD
NOT ACCELERATE HAD TO PULL
OVER. SHUT AND WOULDNT
RESTART TWICE, 3RD TIME
STARTED AND RAN GOOD ~|~
~|~39767 RAN HEALTH CHECK ON
ALL COMPUTER AND FOUND NO
CODES PRESENT OR IN HISTORY.
RAN VEHICLE AND WATCHING DATA
LIST ALL PARAMETERS ARE
NORMAL. NO CODES FOUND

CEL DTC PO400 Bad Bank #1 CAT Replaced.
At time of 7/11/11 96K w/T-belt.
Customer complained of engine dying while ascending I-70 Eisenhower tunnel. Tech found nothing even check fuel pressure. Reported normal 45PSI.

8/3/11 97K Replaced fuel pump. Tech reported same:no codes, Pump PSI 45PSI & voltmeter test all OK.

My notes:
Issue resolved. Over next 100K miles no more issue with engine dying ascending I-70. No more P0400 DTC. CAT's & o2's fine.

when you power wash the under-body, do you use any decreasing solvents through the power washer or are you washing off loose grime then hand cleaning with the de-greaser?

Im not trying to cur corners, but if i could feed the de-greaser through the PW that would be good.

Have you ever tried to use a de-greaser mix of some type in your foam lance on the PW?

I spray by hand from the bottle you see above, once loose dirt is blown off. It would be great to have de-greaser soap in my PR washer, but I don't have a soap that is safe to use in PR washer, wrong soap will kill the washer.

Hard to tell exactly what's going on with your climate control, but I think we had the same problem. HVAC Troubleshooting

Thanks a bunch. I'll read through that link ASAP!