Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration) (2 Viewers)

[2001LC]

Waiting on parts to start mechanical work (Timing belt w/fan bracket, PCV valve & both hoses, spark plugs, heater Tee's, fuel filter, air filter, intake manifold gaskets, T-body gasket, thermostat, Power steering HP line, drive belt idler pulley & tensioner pulley bearing, wheel bearing service, new front drive shafts, new hub flanges & cone washers, complete rebuilt of stabilizer system, rear coil springs and other stuff ....)

I've been doing some lite stuff meantime like:
Finishing up carpet stain removal.
Continue working on perfecting body paint.
Replacing and condition all interior plastic molding & seats.
Working on DVD Parasitic Battery Drain drop down DVD
Removed SAT radio antenna.
Undercarriage broken bolt removal.

One main bolt for #2 plastic under shield was in No. #3 crossmember was broken. I found it easier to just replace No. #3 with one I had lying around. Cleaned up all 7 bolts of No. #3 cross-member & front differential support coated with marine grease (MG). I subsequently de-rusted then painted No. #3 cross-member & frame mounting point with POR-15. See page ~#10 Front Differential bushing replacement, and only packed bolt holes with MG.

I subsequently de-rusted then painted No. #3 cross-member & frame mounting point with POR-15. See page ~#10 Front Differential bushing replacement, and only packed bolt holes with MG

Differential Support While in area I took a look at bushing of front differential which I believe are fine and saw nothing remarkable. Yes they move more than new but that is to be expected. There is no detectable clunk from bushing. Subsequently replaced all bushing see Page #10.

 

[2001LC]

Went back de-rusted cleaned off grease, usedh POR- metal cleaner & prep then painted.

A few more areas I've been working:

Re sealing cargo drains:

Re-moving busted trailer hitch bolt (waiting on new bolts for each side)

Prep area with wire brush and POR-15 then installed bumpers:

Inspecting TRE, ball joints. LCA, UCA and steering rack bushings. I'll post up some vidios later if I get the chance, but they looked good.

Still I'm considering replacing steering rack bushing, at 194K its not a bad idea. I've use poly and have had good results doing this in pre 03 like my 01 (The King). I'd like rubber as that's what factory used, but rubber is not available to my knowledge?

 

[2001LC]

Waiting on parts I got a little done today.
Worked on paint, then Sanded, Buffed & waxed the fog light lenses with a 3M lens kit.

Clay bar ever step of the way between sanding up to wet sanding.

They cleaned up nicely.

Final step; buffing compound.

 

[2001LC]

Drain out Toyota SLL pink coolant form block dains and radiator and flushed with distilled water.
I've been using those same tubes & Tide jugs for years. They're handy at 1.56 gal capacity.

Found blowing out with low pressure air helps get extra few qts. I'll blow out heater core and lines when I replace heater tee's

 

[2001LC]

Finally got a chance to do a compression check. Look real good 180lb -+ ~2lb. This is as good as any I've seen. Spark plugs look ok for 44K miles, gap ~1.1 to 1.12.

Found three coils had cracks & two discoloration (light brown) in boot (sign of heat)

Got a start on tear down. Will pull fuel injector & power steering HP line and take to re builders soon.

 

[Layonnn]

Very nice progress! I'm always learning a lot from your posts.
What is your reasoning behind using grease on the frame where the diff support mounts goes (vs. say wire wheel/por-15) and why grease as opposed to say anti-sieze on the cleaned up bolts?

 

[jerryb]

Paul, what do you think about the coloring on the top radiator nipple?

 

[2001LC]

Very nice progress! I'm always learning a lot from your posts.
What is your reasoning behind using grease on the frame where the diff support mounts goes (vs. say wire wheel/por-15) and why grease as opposed to say anti-sieze on the cleaned up bolts?

First let me say; My camera is in a "flower mode" setting that seems to exaggerate rust color, helps me out that way.

I did end up going back and de-resting & painting w/POR. I'm really not sure if this spot ever had paint. Using POR-15 I'm concerned without allowing at least a few days to cure, cross-member would have surely fuse to frame (paint). This would have made future removal near impossible.

In earlier pictures you'll see where I did use POR-15, but in most case it's not a metal to metal area.

The exception was where trailer hitch bolts up to frame. There fitment isn't and issue and paint is still on hitch (powder coating). Also after using my rust removal wheel there was some pitting, so POR-15 seem advisable. Additional that spot will be curing for many weeks before bolting up hitch with new factory bolts. This area where hitch, hook, plate mate to frame is a moisture trap, so I've taken extra steps to protect. Interesting is where forward short third bolt, which only goes through hitch to frame (no other plates,) bolts and frame are fine. I will be packing this bolt area with lots of marine grease on final assemble to keep moisture out and protect metal.

I started using marine grease years ago first between wheel hub and wheel, then on studs of lugs (tire shops kids freaked out). I found it kept wheel from freezing up on hub, and keeps that ugly rust color away. Over the years my use extended into internal parts of wheel bearing job, like in wheel speed sensor area. As the years progressed I found the marine grease was very hard to remove even with solvent. In some area of undercarriage between metal, in bolt guilds, on bolts, links and "what have you" paint gets worn off and moisture trapped. I find using marine grease helps create a moisture barrier and bolts, nuts and parts no longer freeze on.

As I assemble parts I'll be lathering up with marine grease especially bolt, bolt holes and nuts. Some people may say I'm "nuts", but I hate having frozen parts, nuts & bolts. I've never had one I've greased come loose and I don't feel the possibility of over torquing of any concern. By that I mean some people feel bolts will be over torque if thread greased, I don't. But even if it dose to some degree, Toyota use such a lite torque away a little more will not hurt.

If you go back and look at Whitelady you'll see I wiped down enter undercarriage by the time I was done. This came about as I move through components I lather up like; bolts, nuts and areas I wire brushed. As I proceeded I notice that wiping off excess with my greasy rag eliminated a white haze left from cleaning with a citrus cleaner. A thought occurred to me of how de-greasing & washing so delinquently I was drying out metal. Metal needs oil or paint to protect from rust, so I continue until entire undercarriage was cover with marine grease. It gives metal what it needs and look I was after.

I do use anti-sieze, but very sparingly and more so in place like valve cover bolt where different metal meet (steal bolt to aluminum head) and high heat area of engine. I also use on spark plug threads, but here I'm very careful with just a dab and then wipe most off, as I don't want any getting in combustion camber (on rings, valve etc.).

Paul, what do you think about the coloring on the top radiator nipple?

I see that often a few minutes after exposed to air, so I don't think much of it. Do I think it's a indication of radiator failure, no. But then all radiator fail at some point. I think all we can do is proper coolant flush to extend life and wait until plastic top separates and replace. What I did look close at is the old coolant that came out which looked good, also no signs of electrolysis in rubber hose, aluminum water pipes or water inlet. So I'm happy!

 

[jerryb]

thanks for the info.

 

[Layonnn]

A lot of good points!
With regards to the hitch, I would think that grease between the mating surfaces would be bad for a different reason. From the research I've done, the main purpose of the bolt in a situation like the hitch is to create a clamping force and the primary thing holding it in place is static friction (as opposed to a shearing force on the bolt). I would imagine grease would be bad in a situation like this (between mating surfaces) to prevent corrosion?

 

[2001LC]

A lot of good points!
With regards to the hitch, I would think that grease between the mating surfaces would be bad for a different reason. From the research I've done, the main purpose of the bolt in a situation like the hitch is to create a clamping force and the primary thing holding it in place is static friction (as opposed to a shearing force on the bolt). I would imagine grease would be bad in a situation like this (between mating surfaces) to prevent corrosion?

Interesting point. Since I did paint my intention is to pack bolt hole and not paint surface. Out of concerned with grease effect on new paint I was planing on avoid the painted surface. I'll be little more careful not to get on "mating surface" based on your research, as the thought had crossed my mind! But wouldn't the addition of plates like toe hook (stacking) reduce the static friction effectiveness.

Can you link me to your research?

 

[Layonnn]

Interesting point. Since I did paint my intention is to pack bolt hole and not paint surface. Out of concerned with grease effect on new paint I was planing on avoid the painted surface. I'll be little more careful not to get on "mating surface" based on your research, as the thought had crossed my mind! But wouldn't the addition of plates like toe hook (stacking) reduce the static friction effectiveness.

Can you link me to your research?

Can't recall where I read it, but sending you a PM as to not clutter your thread with miscellaneous tech discussion haha.

 

[2001LC]

PM or post here either is fine. One reason I post this stuff is to learn. If someone spots me doing something wrong or has a better way I wanted to be called out on it and/or shown. I'm learning stuff every day on these rigs, it keeps it interesting. I've a lot more to learn that is for sure!

THX for your input, what you said makes sense.

 

[2001LC]

Got a little work done today. Cut the day short when heat of day kick up garage to 100 deg, just kick my butt along with gasoline fumes from pulling fuel rails.

Managed to pull power steering pressure line and found something interest. It's a new inspection point from now on for me. The Pressure Feed Tube Assembly. I've be checking condition of rubber hoses at upper end, but hadn't checked lower end. I found lower end did not pass inspection whereas upper did. Today is a learning day between this and valuable input @Layonn.

If not a vacuum leak today it would have been soon:

Also pulled intake as I'll be replace gaskets on this VVti as well. I'm glad the decision was made to do these, as I found oil leaking from these intake as well (that's two for two). Although not as much, so was not apparent on intake tubes as last VVTi.

I wish someone would chime in and tell me if Toyota design this way (to leak, not likely). Or does factory gasket shrink over time. Or is new OEM gasket a design change as I believe it is!

New gaskets are thicker that for sure (See Redbaron for measurements)

Some of the mount bolts were soak with oil others were dry.

 

[2001LC]

Here is a full shot of The Pressure Feed Tube Assembly (vacuum hoses) I meant to place in above post. Hoses connect to high pressure line at top of steering pump.

Pressure line is ready to go the machine shop to replace leaky hose, and fuel injector are all pack in a bag and ready to go to Chuck at FIS tomorrow. Chuck and I had a long talked today about fuel injectors and the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR). I'll be replacing FPR based on his observation over the years, that a mud member first gave me the heads up on (thanks Dan).

I've also a pick up at Toyota parts, and a timing belt shipment is coming tomorrow. The biggest order is rout and should be here soon, I hope. I've over 100 parts coming in now so the fun stuff begins... after 50 days of detailing I'm happy to wrench for a while.

 

[jerryb]

wow, I was just replacing those power steering vacuum switching valve hoses yesterday. 3.5mm on the one to the air box was fine but the one to the white tee behind the butterfly needs stock or 5mm hose.

Also, that long hose dangling off your counter that connects to the bottom of the manifold, I don't see anyway to replace that with the manifold installed?
That hose supplies all the secondary air pump vacuum signal to that little manifold above the FPR. I'm just thinking that hose needs to be replaced or any signal loss for the whole entire air injection system will set a code.
I know you're not into using non stock stuff, but all those little hoses in that system are 3.5mm

ohh, the air switching valves in the rear behind the starter, same thing, they go to the same manifold. I don't think I can replace those with the intake manifold in place either.

Do you think you would replace a fuel pump that was putting out 38.5psi? I get fuel smell on hot days half tank, but no non starting conditions. (hot start at least) No extra fuel trim either, long or short, that's what makes me want to leave it alone. idk. I have a new one sitting here, don't want to get crazy though.

 

[2001LC]

I'm just going to see if my Toyota parts guy can get The Pressure Feed Tube Assembly (vacuum hoses). They'll be pricey but I just prefer OEM with factory bends and insulators. If he can't your measurements will come in handy, THX.

Good point on the vacuum hoses on underside of intake manifold, thanks for the heads up. With t-body off, long curved forceps and a mirror it may be possible IDK, certainly easier now. They looked good and the one that goes to VSV connector for the AI system (dangling) was even holding vacuum when I pulled 24 hours after shut down of engine. I'll be sure to give second look during clean up.

Your fuel pressure of 38.5psi is within FSM so no, at low end (FSM 38 to 44) but ok. Check your FSM for 5 minute test IIRC it's 21psi.

Interesting Chuck from FIS and I were just talking about the Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR). He said what happens is bad fuel (water in fuel) which as you know can happen from gas just sitting in tank. Will cause needle in the FPR to rust. Then what happens is MPG will drop as needle gets stuck. He went on to say the condition happens when hot more so. So fuel smell and low MPG happening with hotter days could be a sign of bad FPR. This is hard to test for because it's intermittent. Chuck has 40 years as a mechanic and is number 2 in fuel injector service, number #1 in quality work. He finds 10% of fuel injector will not pass his inspection, others only find 1% bad. He really likes to understand why things occur. It was another member in mud (Dan), who gave me the heads up that Chuck brought this issue to his attention (FPR). Dan just had FIS service (clean, rebuild & test) his fuel injectors and he replaced the FPR at same time. Dan told me his rig has never run better. I've had declining MPG and lately noticed it being erratic, but always low. I've watch it decline for last ~70K since 100K miles. Fuel injector service and replacing the FPR is about only things I've not done yet. On this rig (Snowy) I'm giving it the full treatment, new intake gasket, vacuum hoses, inject serviced by FIS, new FPR and spark plugs to go with Timing belt job.
Here some more info on injestor I need to add FPR to it: When to replace fuel injectors

I'm also looking at those three coils (pitcured above) that show signs of heat as they don't match the other 5 coils. That is not a test for coils but could be sign. Some more info on coils: When to replace Ignition coils.

I just notice in this picture (from above) a little more oil under the VVT Sensor for bank 2. I'll pick a new seal for that just in case, assuming it has a replaceable seal IDK.

 

[2001LC]

Oh, @jerryb make sure to inspect fuel cap and the neck and lines from cap to tank. Inspection plate in DS rear wheel well.

 

[Layonnn]

Does the newer plastic intake plenum come apart or is it all one solid piece? I was debating taking mine apart (even though i had mistakenly bought the gasket that goes between the two pieces) but i was glad i did. Mine had oil and carbon deposits that i was able to fully clean.

What i found worked best for removing that oil/crud and the carbon deposits in the intake: gasoline on a shop towel. Worked a lot better than any cleaner i tried, wont hurt the intake either.

Mine was from leaking valve cover gaskets.

 

[jerryb]

thanks. I've been down the cap and line checking. I wasn't going to replace the fpr but for a possible mpg bump and 76$ I will give it a shot and see what happens.
I didn't think about taking the throttle out and reaching under there. I'm going to try that.