Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem! (1 Viewer)

[sammybones]

Nice job on Emerald Paul. No worries. Not ready to buy one for my daughter just yet. Six more months until she turns 16.

My budget has increased significantly, her grandmother is giving us a very, very generous down payment.

I’m certainly interested in the next 100 you’re willing to part with.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks!

When I purchased it, I had no idea what I was going to do with it. Didn't even know if it would run, as was a field find that had to be towed home. But Emerald turned-out to be a good running very nice a DD for 3 years.

But, many things left undone on it. Mostly cosmetics. Like carpet, seat and interior in general. Body and paint never perfected. Mechanically, things like AC leak never found. Really I stopped looking as topping off AC each summer, was easy and cheap.

It did get some "special" stuff, as was also a secondary test vehicle for me. In which I could monitor how services I performed and product used, worked out. Like all new Denso coils, when nothing actually wrong with factories, other than being old and perhaps tired. New Fuel pressure regulator, just to see effect. I don't recall if I ever posting the engine compression results, but they were impressive. So much so, I wanted to re-test with my newer gauges, but never got the chance! Transmission was also impressive at ~557Km, adopting the full 12 qt. Mobil 1 full syn ATF flush very well. It had a rotation sound from rear when turning corners, at first. Over time the sound went away. Never knew what it was.

Prices have increased considerably, since you purchased the "King". Finding good ones has becoming very hard and expensive. It really blows my mind, at what 100 series go for today. Low mileage ones, like: Merlot or The Black Knight would go for the $50k to $60K price range in a heartbeat today. Which looks like the prices will not be falling back, at least not in near term if ever. So it's very good thing, your grandmother was so generous.

I have three 100 series currently.

06LC 255K gold, that engine was replaced by someone. Picked up about 6 months ago. It's not really derivable at moment, not sure what I'll do with It. I may just sell as is. I just don't know if I can get time to work on.

07LX 162K gray/gray "GrayGal". My test vehicle for more than 2 years now, which I've not posted a dedicated thread in mud for it. It had many issues, that we see only on the VVT. It's helped to understand why, how to spot and what we can do to correct these issues. Work in progress that now my GF drives as a DD, since Emerald gone.

Today I'm working an 03LX 315K Blue Vapor Metallic / Stone, I bought back in July. I just named "Sky" a few days ago. It needs a ton of work, but looks like it will be a nice one. First up is getting front end work done, so I can drive to emission test station. I'd also like to get the clear bra off ASAP, as it's nasty looking. Also I'll need to pull windshield molding and see whats what. Which has screws holding molding on, never a good sign.

I'm going to be testing a new transmission fluid from Mobil on it. The 03 last year with a transmission dip stick and first year of the 5 spd. It was the only year that called for Toyota IV ATF. In 04- Toyota WS was introduced. 98-02 uses Dexron III.

Whereas Exxon Mobil does make the Toyota ATF. They never had a full synthetic fluid sold in the USA, for Toy IV or WS. Only Mobil 1 has a full synthetic which is only approved for Dexron III of 98-02 transmissions. Mobil, which is second shelf to Mobil 1, their flagship synthetic lineup. Has reformulated their Mobil MV ATF blended synthetic, to a full synthetic. It is also now approved for Dex III, Toy IV and Toy WS. I've a few cases on special order now. Seems no one carries it yet. Or so any listing I see for it, still showed the old blended bottle. If I like the stuff, I'll be adopting its use in 03- up (100 & 200 series). I may use in the 98-02 also. Then I'd need only one ATF fluid to carry in my shop. But I do really like the M1 MV AFT, which I've used for ~ 15 years now.

Sky: Short for Sky Blue!

She was limping coming in the shop, with busted aftermarket FDS

Hard to say if it was aftermarket junk FDS. Or very improper wheel bearing service, one where wheel hub cavity not filled with grease causing bearings to over heat. Or combination of. That resulted in busted Front Drive shaft outer tulip (FDS, AKA: CV). The axle pulled itself from the outer CV. The outer CV bearing and cage feel frozen in tulip.

Grease on axle discolored. That brown indicates water entry. Not supersizing, as grease cap nearly fell off in my hand.

No grease was in cavity. I can see someone wiped out most of old grease, but failed to clean or repack cavity. Lucky it was older woman driver, that apparently was not or no longer going on cross country trips. Otherwise these wheel bearings would have gotten so hot, with HWY speeds. They could fuse the axle and hub flange together. Which we saw this happen in a mud posting a few years ago.

Bearing is a bit discolored from heat. I'd reuse but it a bit scored also. The outer bearings are made in Mexico. Inner are from Japan (Koyo) which may be factory installs.

That is small outer bearing side to side after I cleaned it. With back side look in wheel hub cavity and inner large race. Wheel hub cavity is just as I found it.

 

[Txagg007]

@2001LC What is the story on the cruiser in the driveway with Texas plates? Feel free to PM me. Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

That's an 05 I was working on, for some nice folks from TX. Not mine!

 

[landarcht]

2001LC, felt like a little LC 100 documentary series you just did, very well done.. Wish you had taken a few shots before it was sold.
Here's my 2005 Emerald. Had it since it had about 300 miles, now about 177K. Always been my daily driver. Wish you were closer so I can leave it with you for a few days.
No major driving issues at the moment other than the following:
-P430 code but recently installed two new O2 sensors, now the code switched to P0156, will be taking it to the mechanic to tweak the downstream sensor, unless it needs a new Cat.
-Occasional minor squeaking, I'm thinking it's time to replace the front KYB shocks that's about 7 years old. All new rear OME springs and Nitro shocks.
-Occasional clicking noise from rear when going over a bump in parking lot, but not happening very often.
-Misaligned front glove compartment, not sure if this is due to partial warping on one of the hinges at the bottom, they are all in the correct bolt holes.
-Side mirror button and rear AC button lights burned out.
-Steering wheel stopped telescoping but still moves up and down.
-Would like to do the cabin air filter mod and front ARB bumper.

 

[shtbrwn86]

View attachment 2092968

This is so incredibly helpful! I am finally getting around to doing the transmission flush on my 99 and I was just wondering how fast the pump moves the fluid through? Seems like it might be really difficult to keep up with it if you have to go stop the car, add fluid, start car, stop car add fluid etc....Or do you have time to open a bottle while the prior bottle is almost pumped through?

This seems like one of those things that you do the first time and make a huge mess and possibly run your transmission dry. The second time it's easy peasy.

 

[2001LC]

You must keep cutting engine.

 

[shtbrwn86]

You must keep cutting engine.

I will take your suggestion then and get a helper for sure.

 

[Jimi900]

Great thread and amazing work. Where about in Colorado are you?

Jim

 

[2001LC]

South Denver sub, east of 1/25 DTC area.

 

[UZJ100LC]

This is a wonderful write up for the transmission exchange procedure. Thank you, from someone who has not done any type of work on cars before other than oil changes. Looking forward to more of the PM guides.

I have not much to add other than these 5.5 qt hugs from Amazon (come in packs of 3) made the process easy. I highly recommend for anyone going to tackle this job

 

[snowglobe]

I have not much to add other than these 5.5 qt hugs from Amazon (come in packs of 3) made the process easy. I highly recommend for anyone going to tackle this job

Please provide a link or more description, such as brand name…

 

[UZJ100LC]

Amazon product ASIN B08HNFF92S
hera ya go

 

[snowglobe]

Amazon product ASIN B08HNFF92S
hera ya go

Thanks! I found those but didn’t see a 5.5qt version. I know 5L ~ 5.5qt, just thought the qt version was preferable.

 

[Les Summer]

View attachment 2092965
Step 3) Next is to remove dip stick and place transmission funnel in it's place. Then add back the same amount of new ATF as was just drained from pan. It is fine to overfill pan at this point if you like.

 

[Les Summer]

How fast does the fluid come out, and what diameter of clear hose are you using?
I plan to start the vehicle, and then just be ready to dump a couple quarts in as 2 quarts come out. I plan on doing mine just a couple quarts at a time until I've replaced 12 or so quarts. I have a perfect 2 quart measuring jug, so that' s just how I plan on doing it.

 

[2001LC]

How fast does the fluid come out, and what diameter of clear hose are you using?
I plan to start the vehicle, and then just be ready to dump a couple quarts in as 2 quarts come out. I plan on doing mine just a couple quarts at a time until I've replaced 12 or so quarts. I have a perfect 2 quart measuring jug, so that' s just how I plan on doing it.

IDK the hose diameter. Just grab one that fits, out of box of various sizes.
I usually get in about 1, as 2 come out while engine running. Then add in 1 while engine off. I start with transmission at least 1/2 qt overfill. I end with transmission 1/4 low, than top later in the 98-03. 04-up I end with 1/4 to 1/2 qt over.

AT/fluid temp:
98-03 158f to 176f
04-07 97F-115f (AT1).

 

[Les Summer]

IDK the hose diameter. Just grab one that fits, out of box of various sizes.
I usually get in about 1, as 2 come out while engine running. Then add in 1 while engine off. I start with transmission at least 1/2 qt overfill. I end with transmission 1/4 low, than top later.

Wow that’s coming out fast. Thanks

 

[abuck99]

Comes out fast and pressurized- use a Home Depot bucket or something with tall sides to minimize splash- fix/clamp the hose against the inside of the bucket-

Don’t try to drain too much as once - it will run low and you get air in the circuit - just do brief intervals - even better if you have a helper to shut the engine off while you monitor how much fluid is draining out-