SC Pulley Removal

[1973Guppie]

For those of you whom have removed your stock TRD supercharger pulley, did you need to use a puller to get the pulley off of the blower snout? I zipped the nut off but could not get the pulley to remove. I checked the pulley boys website and the pullers it has mentions that they are not needed with the keyed pulleys, which our are keyed. Just wondering how to get this thing off correctly without messing anything up. I have limited room in front of it and would like to get it off without removing the whole blower assembly if possible. Just wondering if it should slide off with a few light blows with a soft mallet? OR if a puller is absolutely necessary?

Thanks!

Noah

 

[1973Guppie]

well, gonna answer my own question as I just called pulley boys, hopefully it will help someone down the road when I am dead and gone. It seems the keyed pulleys do not need a puller and should slide right off. I whacked it several times with a mallet and nothing. They reccomended not heating the pulley as it might mess with seals and bearings. They reccomend some pb blaster and let sit overnight. I may try prying a bit too but nervous about messing up this blower.

 

[NLXTACY]

Did you call Magnussen here in Ventura? I would try them first.

 

[1973Guppie]

Did you call Magnussen here in Ventura? I would try them first.

just tried, no answer and no help line.

 

[White Stripe]

I would use a puller. Yes sometimes they come right off by hand, but if any corrosion is in there u won't get it off without a puller. Do not take a hammer to it in any way.

 

[1973Guppie]

I would use a puller. Yes sometimes they come right off by hand, but if any corrosion is in there u won't get it off without a puller. Do not take a hammer to it in any way.

yeah just tapping it with a soft mallet

 

[dogfishlake]

I had the same problem with mine. All I read said it would come right off. I made a little plate puller to use since a regular 3 jaw wouldn't fit because of the radiator. Basically, it was a steel plate for the back side with a radius cut out to slip behind the pulley and a plate for the front. Then I drilled both plates and put a 5/16 bolt through on each side of the pulley. This SHOULD have pulled the pulley forward against the main shaft and removed it. This might work for you but it only bent the 3/16 steel I made the plates out of. A couple months later I had to remove the SC to do a bypass valve and got it with a 3 jaw puller then. She was tight.

 

[1973Guppie]

I had the same problem with mine. All I read said it would come right off. I made a little plate puller to use since a regular 3 jaw wouldn't fit because of the radiator. Basically, it was a steel plate for the back side with a radius cut out to slip behind the pulley and a plate for the front. Then I drilled both plates and put a 5/16 bolt through on each side of the pulley. This SHOULD have pulled the pulley forward against the main shaft and removed it. This might work for you but it only bent the 3/16 steel I made the plates out of. A couple months later I had to remove the SC to do a bypass valve and got it with a 3 jaw puller then. She was tight.

thx for this, my hope was to be able to easily swap pulleys during winter / summer but that does not seem to be an option if I have to use a puller every time to get this off. I think I will just shelf the 2.8 pulley until if/when I do meth injection.

 

[dogfishlake]

thx for this, my hope was to be able to easily swap pulleys during winter / summer but that does not seem to be an option if I have to use a puller every time to get this off. I think I will just shelf the 2.8 pulley until if/when I do meth injection.

Well, I really don't think this situation is normal, just that you may need extreme measures to get it off once, clean it really well, and hopefully the issue wont return. BTW, where did you find the 2.8? I have a Pulley Boys 3.0 on now but do they sell smaller? Thanks

 

[1973Guppie]

Well, I really don't think this situation is normal, just that you may need extreme measures to get it off once, clean it really well, and hopefully the issue wont return. BTW, where did you find the 2.8? I have a Pulley Boys 3.0 on now but do they sell smaller? Thanks

yes pulley boys sells a 2.8

 

[1973Guppie]

Well, I really don't think this situation is normal, just that you may need extreme measures to get it off once, clean it really well, and hopefully the issue wont return. BTW, where did you find the 2.8? I have a Pulley Boys 3.0 on now but do they sell smaller? Thanks

to your point above, have you swapped yours on and off since getting the original off? I would consider pulling the blower if you think in the future it will be easier to pull on and off. I looked at the replacement pulley and it the entry sleeve does not look tapered at all.

 

[1973Guppie]

ZZP Supercharger Pulley Puller Removal & Installer Tool, Eaton M90 M112 M62 | eBay

you think the above puller would work? I am thinking it would work nicely if I can figure out a shorter middle tension bolt, maybe cut the existing one short and weld on a nut

I emailed the seller and asked about this fitting our sc units

 

[dogfishlake]

to your point above, have you swapped yours on and off since getting the original off? I would consider pulling the blower if you think in the future it will be easier to pull on and off. I looked at the replacement pulley and it the entry sleeve does not look tapered at all.

I haven't. I did do quite a bit of clean up on the SC shaft and it wen together nicely when the new pulley went on, so im confident but no proof.

 

[dogfishlake]

ZZP Supercharger Pulley Puller Removal & Installer Tool, Eaton M90 M112 M62 | eBay

you think the above puller would work? I am thinking it would work nicely if I can figure out a shorter middle tension bolt, maybe cut the existing one short and weld on a nut

I emailed the seller and asked about this fitting our sc units

That sure looks like it will, I would consider one for me too, indeed the swap continues to be a pita. Nice find.

 

[Pierce]

I bought the ZZ Performance pulley removal tool. As designed it will not work on the MP90 supercharger and I’d put good money on it not working on an installed M90.

Here is what I started with and a starting template of what needed to be cut.

After cutting to the template and a bit more, milling a bit out of the other plate so it would kind of fit between the supercharger snout and radiator, hogging out the bottom threads for pass through bolts and shortening the puller bolt I ended up with this... and I’m not sure it works yet because I ran out of wrenching time...

At this point I’m 99% sure it would’ve been more efficient and effective to cut these out of some steel plate like this guy did...

Supercharger belt for those running smaller pulleys

I’ll hopefully let you know tomorrow whether it was a success or fail

 

[Pierce]

Final report.
The modified tool worked really smoothly. No issues.

this is everything I “needed” to make it very easy to remove and install minus the Wits End supercharger pulley removal tool (get it, worth it). The tight reach is to remove the pulley nut as a universal joint wouldn’t work for me(too much angle and interference with radiator in). I had it on way too tight and had to take some extraordinary measures to remove it (tire shop impact).

In action

re-installation

Detailed modifications to follow.

 

[Pierce]

Back plate...
1-Made it into the Alamo (Poorly) by using a cardboard template that fit around the supercharger nose.
2- milled out about 1” on the front plate to allow the front plate to clearance the radiator shroud.
3. Sanded off some of the bottom tabs of the front plate so that, again, it’d clear the radiator shroud.
4. Hogged out the threads on the bottom 2 front plate holes so I could make the holes pass through with nuts on the back.
2 reasons for this.... 1-the bolts were too long to thread into the back plate after I thinned out the front plate.... 2- it was nearly impossible to thread in the bottom bolts when installed due to radiator clearance. Couldn’t assemble the tool and drop it on the pulley because of clearance issues.

5-shortened the puller bolt an unknown length to make it roughly 2.5”. Mostly eyeballed the length to get it just long enough to fit between the tool and the top of the radiator. Made the bolt end pointed to center on the supercharger shaft. While turning the bolt it centered itself even better (I forgot to put anti-seize on the end of the bolt, it worked out).

To re-install, the front plate wouldn’t work, so I just used the provided washer in between the original supercharger nut and used an impact on the lowest setting to slowly set the pulley. After I anti-seized to poo the pulley shaft where the pulley seats.
The silver marks on the radiator shroud each side of the supercharger shaft are the main interference points for the supercharger tool. Clearancing those areas are 98% of you fight.

after all this success I still strongly feel that it’ll be easier to get some steal plate and bolts and make your own. It’d be thinner and probably stronger.

I realizedthat the previous post I linked with a home made tool was actually made by @Photoman who also makes custom alternator brackets for up-rated alternators. Maaaaybe there’s a market for supercharger pulley pullers.

 

[Photoman]

I realizedthat the previous post I linked with a home made tool was actually made by @Photoman who also makes custom alternator brackets for up-rated alternators. Maaaaybe there’s a market for supercharger pulley pullers.

I made a supercharger pulley puller many years ago as referenced in post#12 in this 2005 thread. Through the years I have lent it to several members sending it back and forth. In January 2019 I sent it to 1973Guppie and told him to keep it. If I needed another one I would just make one. If you or anyone else wants to make one for sale, it might be something that would help the cruiser community.

Bill

 

[Pierce]

Thanks for the update Bill!